Wood trip meets roof shingles

[Exterous]

I have a small (~4'x6') section of roof over our great room off on its own. While I was doing some other work I noticed that there was caulking between the wood trim on the sides and the shingles themselves that seemed in need of repair. TBH I wasn't sure it if was normal to have just caulk joining the trim and wood so before I redid that I figured I would consult the great oracles of wisdom here as to whether this was normal and, if so, if there was a good brand of caulk to go with. Sure lots say they'll work with a 'variety of surfaces' but how well do they really do?

 

[VirtualLarry]

Shouldn't there be flashing? ....NOT a roof expert, by any means.

Ask @Greenman .

 

[herm0016]

gray line is metal kick out flashing. think like a drop of water. if it gets behind the siding, it should travel down the housewrap or whatever is under the siding and get "kicked out" by the metal flashing. there should be a path to drain from behind the siding. it should be over the shingles and under the siding. hopefully the flashing exists under the siding and over the roof underlayment in your case. drawing not to scale and does not include all layers that should be present, but gives you an idea how it should be layered.

I like OSI Quad caulking for outside. also, sashco products like big stretch or through the roof.

 

[Greenman]

Doesn't look like there is any flashing. It should project 3" beyond the lower trim board. I'd pull that board and inspect behind it, then install new flashing and trim. leave the trim up off the roof a inch or so. Also note that the drip edge on the upper roof is lapped incorrectly, the upper piece should lap over the lower piece.

For exterior caulking I like Sikaflex or NP1.

 

[Exterous]

Thanks. Kinda what I was afraid of. A PITA spot to get to but looks like the board needs to be replaced

 

[sdifox]

Tar then flash

 

[Greenman]

Tar then flash

Tar what? There is no need for sealant after it's properly flashed.

 

[sdifox]

Tar what? There is no need for sealant after it's properly flashed.

Tar seal first, then flash. Insurance.

 

[Greenman]

Tar seal first, then flash. Insurance.

Generally speaking it isn't done. Roof to wall flashing is installed in such a way as to allow replacing the roof without removing the siding and replacing the flashing. Tar in that assembly is unnecessary and adds complications and cost when reroofing.

 

[sdifox]

Generally speaking it isn't done. Roof to wall flashing is installed in such a way as to allow replacing the roof without removing the siding and replacing the flashing. Tar in that assembly is unnecessary and adds complications and cost when reroofing.

He's doing it himself, the biggest cost is the risk of being on the roof.

 

[Micrornd]

Also note that the drip edge on the upper roof is lapped incorrectly, the upper piece should lap over the lower piece.

Also notice the size difference in the drip edges, saved a couple bucks that way with inspectors/homeowners that won't/can't climb ladders.
They are so far behind with inspections here (and worried that delays would cause weather damage) that licensed roofers only have to sign an affidavit they did it right/to code and they get the permit "finalled" without an inspector appearing onsite.

 

[Greenman]

He's doing it himself, the biggest cost is the risk of being on the roof.

He's not reroofing it, just correcting the flashing. There isn't any harm in adding tar somewhere back behind the flashing, but there is no benefit. It's just more stuff that's going to have to be removed when the roof is replaced.

If you're a belt and suspenders kind of guy it might help you sleep a little better, but it doesn't make the roof more water proof. If the area is subject to extremely high winds then it would be a good idea.

I've been in residential construction for 47 years and never seen a leak at a roof to wall flashing that was correctly done.

 

[sdifox]

He's not reroofing it, just correcting the flashing. There isn't any harm in adding tar somewhere back behind the flashing, but there is no benefit. It's just more stuff that's going to have to be removed when the roof is replaced.

If you're a belt and suspenders kind of guy it might help you sleep a little better, but it doesn't make the roof more water proof. If the area is subject to extremely high winds then it would be a good idea.

I've been in residential construction for 47 years and never seen a leak at a roof to wall flashing that was correctly done.

Shrug. It's just extra peace of mind.