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Winter maintenance on outdoor power equipment (small engines)

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NetWareHead

THAT guy
Have a question for you engine guys. I'd like to begin winterizing equipment like my string trimmer, lawn mower, leaf blower etc...

For instance, my snow blower has instructions for off season storage: close the fuel line, drain carb, remove spark plug and squirt 2-3 tablespoons of new motor oil into cylinder. Pull starter handles 3 times to distribute fuel through cylinder. Then replace spark plug and pull starter slowly until resistance is felt (thus closing valves and preventing corrosion). Lube all joints and then at beginning of snow season next year before operation, replace oil.

So my question relates to the use of sta-bil, the fuel stabilizer. Is it necessary to drain the carb like the manual directs? I'm assuming this is to prevent the separation of fractions resulting in stale fuel and corrosion etc... I'm assuming the sta-bil will keep the gas "fresh" in the off season and therefore I dont need to drain the carb.

What about the part about adding motor oil to the cylinder? is this recommended for two stroke engines as well? Do those have a different "winterization" method for off season?
 
Theoretically you shouldn't have to but draining the float bowl is usually pretty easy. I would treat two-stroke the same way, just to be safe. I use sta-bil every time I fill my gas cans. Just one less thing to worry about it.
 
You are best to follow the directions. Even with stabilizer in the fuel, next spring you will have old fuel. I always stabilize my fuel the day I pump it. Most fuel is deteriorating badly 3 weeks after it is pumped and exposed to the atmosphere.
 
RLGL said:
You are best to follow the directions. Even with stabilizer in the fuel, next spring you will have old fuel. I always stabilize my fuel the day I pump it. Most fuel is deteriorating badly 3 weeks after it is pumped and exposed to the atmosphere.
Click to expand...

Well the intent of this thread was me wondering if I use stabil, then is it necessary to drain the carb like the manual directs?

Acccording to Sta-bil's website at http://www.goldeagle.com/brands/sta-bil-faqs :

"HOW LONG WILL STA-BIL FUEL STABILIZER® KEEP FUEL FRESH?"
"STA-BIL® Fuel Stabilizer will keep fuel fresh for up to 12 months, guaranteed. Depending on the quality, type and source of the gasoline, as well as storage conditions, doubling the dosage rate of STA-BIL® brand could prolong this storage time to up to 2 years. However, any gasoline stored for more than 12 months will tend to lose volatility (ignitability), which could lead to hard starting or no start conditions after this long storage period. NO additive, STA-BIL® brand included, will prevent volatility loss in fuel."

So I presumably have 12 months and I'm talking about winterizing a lawn mower for at most 6 months.

if the purpose of draining the carb is to remove fuel that would go "bad" and I'm using stabil that would protect me for 12 months... is this really necessary then?

I mean it is not such a big deal to drain the carb on my honda snowblower, it is harder on my lawn mower and I havent even researched how to do it on my stihl string trimmer. if I have to do it, I'll do it on everythign I own but if I dont need to...why not save a little time and hassle?
 
The main thing is just draining the carb by running it dry or draining it manually. Gas left in the carb will evaporate no matter what you put in it, and the varnish it leaves behind will clog the carb. The other stuff like fogging the cylinders with oil will certainly help with long term storage.
 
In 40 years I have never used Sta-Bil and have only had one problem child that being a generator that I learned I must turn off the petcock and let it run until it sputters and dies.

What it comes down to OP is whether you want to spring for the cost of Sta-Bil. Run it dry or drain the fuel or add Sta-Bil. The end result should be the same. It's not that big a deal IMO.

I never oiled a cylinder either. A two stroke has got oil mixed with the gas so in theory it's oiled already. But I look at it from the perspective of what is the cost of a teaspoon or two of oil? Add in your time and it still is whatever pleases you. Personally, I am more concerned about fouling a spark plug to the point that it won't start at the beginning of the season. But what's the answer to that? Remove the plug, spray it with some brake cleaner and let it dry while you're pulling the engine over to expel or at least disperse the oil better. It just isn't a big deal.
 
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