Don't forget that frames don't have to have visible borders and I find that if used that way, it's fine. I tend to keep a uniform look by re-loading the same menus/headers instead of keeping frames because of simplicity. Basically all you have to do is have the same snippet of code for each page and add the content in another part of the body. Kind of got used to it with "includes" in ColdFusion. And TABLES are still key.
Speaking of CF, I "grew up" with it so I use CFStudio / Homesite+ and it's a great Editor/WYSIWYG-in-one. It also allows remote development as in direct editing through RDS/FTP (DreamweaverMX has taken this on with the sunset of CFStudio). Can't beat it.
As far as CSS goes, I find some of the cross-browser incompatibility to be more of a nuisance than anything. Maybe if I become more well-versed with it, I'll find the majority of what works across browsers and what doesn't, but the time isn't right.