Scarpozzi
Lifer
- Jun 13, 2000
- 26,392
- 1,780
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There are 2 basic kinds of breads....quick breads and yeast breads. Quick breads use baking powder/baking soda as leaveners. These are typically heavier breads like biscuits, banana bread, cakes, etc... The really good breads that most people appreciate are leavened with yeast.
Now, the problem with yeast is that most bakers in the US use basic yeast strains from a jar....or they are simply taking frozen blocks of mass-produced dough and thawing them out before baking them. The process only takes a few hours...grease a pan toss a brick of dough in the pan and wait...not labor intensive and you get a uniform product without having to hire skilled labor. Most legitimate bakeries actually maintain a yeast starter that they may use for specific products they sell. I've actually heard of master bakers and pastry chefs travelling to Europe to family businesses, dropping a straw into a yeast starter there...crimping both sides...then flying back to the states and smuggling the yeast strains through customs to bring back starters that have been kept alive for decades or longer.
Equipment: The key to crusty bread is a steam oven. You can try to replicate this, by placing a pan of water in the bottom of an oven ,but it takes extreme heat and steam to get that crust that everyone seems to expect in a loaf of good bread. I've found that most good bagel shops here have the equipment required to make good italian or french baguettes.
As far as rye breads and other kinds, that's going to vary from bakery to bakery. Most of the good stuff is really in Jersey or NYC because of the large number of family businesses from immigrants of the early 1900s that are still making old school bread. Otherwise, you have to seek out tourist towns that have skilled bakers in the top tier restaurants. I've spent hundreds of dollars for a meal that had extremely rare ingredients and been blown away by the brioche...so much so that I had to have a second piece...I was full already and had 4 courses to go...I still ate it, and ate it slow.
Now, the problem with yeast is that most bakers in the US use basic yeast strains from a jar....or they are simply taking frozen blocks of mass-produced dough and thawing them out before baking them. The process only takes a few hours...grease a pan toss a brick of dough in the pan and wait...not labor intensive and you get a uniform product without having to hire skilled labor. Most legitimate bakeries actually maintain a yeast starter that they may use for specific products they sell. I've actually heard of master bakers and pastry chefs travelling to Europe to family businesses, dropping a straw into a yeast starter there...crimping both sides...then flying back to the states and smuggling the yeast strains through customs to bring back starters that have been kept alive for decades or longer.
Equipment: The key to crusty bread is a steam oven. You can try to replicate this, by placing a pan of water in the bottom of an oven ,but it takes extreme heat and steam to get that crust that everyone seems to expect in a loaf of good bread. I've found that most good bagel shops here have the equipment required to make good italian or french baguettes.
As far as rye breads and other kinds, that's going to vary from bakery to bakery. Most of the good stuff is really in Jersey or NYC because of the large number of family businesses from immigrants of the early 1900s that are still making old school bread. Otherwise, you have to seek out tourist towns that have skilled bakers in the top tier restaurants. I've spent hundreds of dollars for a meal that had extremely rare ingredients and been blown away by the brioche...so much so that I had to have a second piece...I was full already and had 4 courses to go...I still ate it, and ate it slow.
