Charles Kozierok
Elite Member
- May 14, 2012
- 6,762
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Woah guys, lets take a step back. Don't shoot raw just yet.
Always shoot RAW. Always. Shoot RAW+JPG if you like, but the RAW is essential. It is your digital negative.
Woah guys, lets take a step back. Don't shoot raw just yet.
It's no wonder there's vibration.... the thing probably struggles just to hold the camera level. I never understood the philosophy of having a $500 body and a $1000 lens held up by a $20 tripod and wonder why the shots look like shit.
It's easy to slam the $30 Dolica, but as with everything it depends on what you are doing. Here's a video review of the Dolica, and you can see as the guy has his DSLR on it how easily it vibrates. Every time he touches it, or removes his hand from it the camera (look at the top of the flash) shakes.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MSZ74qqneyY
That being said, this is a very usable tripod.
1. Don't extend the bottom-most section of the legs (skinniest)
2. Hang a weight on the hook. I have a sandbag I use, but be imaginative.
3. Shoot Mup (mirror up) as advised earlier when you can and with a remote.
4. Make sure VR is turned OFF.
FWIW, the heaviest setup I use on this tripod is the D7000 and 105 DC f/2 lens.
If you want the lowdown on Tripods, Thom Hogan tells it like it is: http://bythom.com/support.htm Just be ready to lay down a cool $1000...
JR
Always shoot RAW. Always. Shoot RAW+JPG if you like, but the RAW is essential. It is your digital negative.
Agreed, but for someone that is still pretty new at this, expecting them to know how to process a raw file is pretty far out there.
Invest in $1000 tripod
RAW + JPG is the way to go, even for newbies, because newbies sometimes turn into not-so-newbies, at which point they will really like how they can go back to their old photos and play with them.
It's easy to slam the $30 Dolica, but as with everything it depends on what you are doing. Here's a video review of the Dolica, and you can see as the guy has his DSLR on it how easily it vibrates. Every time he touches it, or removes his hand from it the camera (look at the top of the flash) shakes.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MSZ74qqneyY
That being said, this is a very usable tripod.
1. Don't extend the bottom-most section of the legs (skinniest)
2. Hang a weight on the hook. I have a sandbag I use, but be imaginative.
3. Shoot Mup (mirror up) as advised earlier when you can and with a remote.
4. Make sure VR is turned OFF.
FWIW, the heaviest setup I use on this tripod is the D7000 and 105 DC f/2 lens.
If you want the lowdown on Tripods, Thom Hogan tells it like it is: http://bythom.com/support.htm Just be ready to lay down a cool $1000...
JR
So far I've learned the OP needs to:
Test the lens
RTFM
Buy photoshop
Shoot RAW
Invest in $1000 tripod
Use Mirror Lock-up
Stop down to F8
Invest in some Scott Kelby books
OP, have you tried shooting without a tripod? Just lay the camera on a stable desk or shoot in enough light where SS are fast enough to handhold, with a subject that will not move.
Getting a sharp image shouldn't be this hard. Non of your images look like its a focus issue, as nothing before or after the subject is in perfect focus.
Shooting RAW will make them look even worse, until you sharpen them. I wouldn't recommend RAW until you sort out your sharpness issue. Even then I wouldn't switch unless you found a reason too (for me, #1 is White Balance).
Sorry havnt read all the thread, just the first few and the 400/5.6L should be working better than that, looks like either a focus or shutter speed issue (which is related to long lens technique).
Using a 400mm lens on a crop body requires a high shutter speed not only to kill camera movement (depending on how well you hold it) but also subject movement, little birds often move fast...
I hardly ever shoot this lens on a tripod, I've good shots down to 1/60th but that will murder hit rate. Keep it at 1/400th or better 1/800th. Rack the ISO if needed.
Hold the lens with good technique, elbows in and supporting the camera and lens braced on your body/chest. Shoot when breathing out slowly.
Make sure it is hitting focus , any slight misfocus will show as softness. Try this with live view.
Mine is slightly adjusted and Iuse focal , though your body cant MA you may have to send it and the lens for calibration to canon.
Dont worry about using an L lens on a lower end body, its all good it should produce excellent results.
Heres a random from my 400 and 5d2 ( similar look to my 7d shots with it), almost certainly not my sharpest with the lens but a good example I have handy.
and crop ACR defaults:
About using live-view
what's VR??
Just so we are on the same page, Live-view refers to using the rear LCD as a viewfinder instead of looking through the Optical Viewfinder.
With Live View you can change the focus type to use contrast detect, which is more accurate but slower than the Optical Viewfinders Phase Detect. You can also hit the Zoom button to zoom in 5X and 10X on the LCD for critical focus.
why is something inherently not live called 'live view'?
What?
Because it shows a live image on the LCD.... Live, as in.... "what is happening right now".
How do you interpret that?
well, it's not happening right now is my point. using the LCD must induce a delay compared to using the optical viewfinder in an SLR, simply by the nature of the device. therefore, not 'live'.
well, it's not happening right now is my point. using the LCD must induce a delay compared to using the optical viewfinder in an SLR, simply by the nature of the device. therefore, not 'live'.
well, it's not happening right now is my point. using the LCD must induce a delay compared to using the optical viewfinder in an SLR, simply by the nature of the device. therefore, not 'live'.