why changing your oil is important

[Vegito]

Originally posted by: Marlin1975
newwer oils work much better then old ones, so the every 3k is pretty much dead unles sit is turbo or reallty stup etc...

I liek the new mobil oils ( ala 5000, 7500, and mobil1 15K)
The Mobil 7500 seems to be the best bang for the buck. I use that and chage it every 6k.

just don;t use a fram filter and you can do it

Actually I found out they're not new.. The 15k ep is the old full synthetic mobil1 with additives. The new mobil 1 SM is newer forumla. The 7500 i think its the synthetic blend..

 

[Zysoclaplem]

Originally posted by: nakedfrog

Originally posted by: Zysoclaplem
I have a 92 Volvo 940 Turbo, and it shakes like mad sometimes too. But I change the oil every 3k miles. I think it's just a piece of crap.

The honeymoon is over, huh?
Thought you were pretty happy with it at first.

Haha, well I was happy when I was ignorant to all its problems. I bought it from my ex's dad.
He told me great things about the car, and they were echoed by my ex. Almost everything was a lie. It leaks everything, and so far, the speedometer, IAC, heated seats, sunroof and a couple more things have kicked the bucket. Soon the windows are gonna go to, I have been having problems with them recently.
Too bad now I guess.

 

[fbrdphreak]

What is this "kleen-right" stuff? I've seen some stuff at Adv Auto that you are supposed to put in your crankcase and let the engine run for a few min before you change your oil; supposed to loosen up some sludge to drain out.

Also, what do ppl think about the tranmission "flushing" services where they supposedly blow out all the old fluid and stuff?

 

[Rock Hydra]

Originally posted by: quakefiend420

Originally posted by: mdchesne
i ran on no oil for 6 months before i realized it all leaked out. 91 jeep cherokee larado. only difference i noticed when i added oil was the ride was quieter. didn't sound like a diesel engine anymore. I miss feeling powerful

:shocked:

wtf man

 

[Titan]

Originally posted by: fbrdphreak
What is this "kleen-right" stuff? I've seen some stuff at Adv Auto that you are supposed to put in your crankcase and let the engine run for a few min before you change your oil; supposed to loosen up some sludge to drain out.

Also, what do ppl think about the tranmission "flushing" services where they supposedly blow out all the old fluid and stuff?

The guys at valvoline overcharged me for kleen-rite I think. They told me it works by draining the oil and then putting the stuff in in place of oil, then running the engine to break crap up, then drain, then new oil works. I watched them do it and it looks fine.

My local mechanic whom I trust explained that if he were to just "change" the tranny fluid, he can only drop the pan so far and change some of the fluid. Instead, he charged me extra to flush all the fluid out with the machine that supposedly does a much better job. I have never had tranny problems, I just did it as preventative maintenence.

 

[Theguynextdoor]

What's the displacement of your engine? And your engine only takes FOUR quarts? No wonder it dirties up so quickly too.

For the next two months, pump premium gas, perferably Shell, because their gas offers the cleanest burn (however expect a crappier gas mileage then other brands). Also switch your oil over to a synthetic. Synthetic is more resistant to burning then dino oil. Every three gas pumps dump in a bottle of Vavoline engine cleaner. ($3 at wally world)

At the end of the two months stop with the vavoline engine cleaner and the first four pumps, dump in two bottles of Chevron (not at the same time). This stuff makes it harder for deposits to cling to your fuel lines, and engine parts, stays in the oil gets filtered or replaced. Also don't forget to change your oil between the switch from Vavoline to Chevron.

The reason I tell you to do this, is because the flush that your mechanic did broke away all the coarse stuff already, now you're just "fine sanding" the rest. Also use a Mobile 1 or K&N oil filter.

 

[Titan]

Originally posted by: Theguynextdoor
What's the displacement of your engine? And your engine only takes FOUR quarts? No wonder it dirties up so quickly too.

For the next two months, pump premium gas, perferably Shell, because their gas offers the cleanest burn (however expect a crappier gas mileage then other brands). Also switch your oil over to a synthetic. Synthetic is more resistant to burning then dino oil. Every three gas pumps dump in a bottle of Vavoline engine cleaner. ($3 at wally world)

At the end of the two months stop with the vavoline engine cleaner and the first four pumps, dump in two bottles of Chevron (not at the same time). This stuff makes it harder for deposits to cling to your fuel lines, and engine parts, stays in the oil gets filtered or replaced. Also don't forget to change your oil between the switch from Vavoline to Chevron.

Thanks for the info. I'm pretty sure my car has a 2.0liter displacement, but it is only a straight-4 SOHC. 190k on it. I have already been running straight 93 octane in the engine and plan on continuing, but alas, no shell stations near me, but I do have the cheapest gas station (a mobil of all places) in my county right in my hometown. I'm not so sure I'll switch to synthetic oil just yet, i'll wait a couple changes and see how things go. I commute 2000 miles a month so I will be changing it every month for a while to monitor progress. I change it myself cuz we have a pit in our garage. I drive hard in the VT hills and fast on the interstate to work so we'll see pretty quick how things hold up.

I was wondering what to look for in those cleaners you mentioned. VT gets lousy stock of everything so should I look for "Valvoline engine cleaner" or "injector cleaner" and what exact type of "Chevron" to look for. Kinda new to the addatives stuff. Wondering if I should place an online order to save some dough.

I'm not so sure the crud was from burn though, I religiously check my oil level and rarely have to add any oil. It may be from my old gas tank whose low pressure pump was old and dying, maybe the tank and sending lines were bad for a while before I broke them. I have a new, clean tank in so things in that area are better off now. I may look into doing an oil test after treating things for a couple months.

 

[Scouzer]

We ran my old Chevy Corsica 400km on 0.5L of oil. Oops.

 

[Billzie7718]

What the hell are these "oil change" things?

 

[Mermaidman]

One of our cars has a 'oil-life monitor.' It counts down from 100%. Should I go with this monitor or stick with the mileage practice?

 

[jaedaliu]

Originally posted by: Theguynextdoor
What's the displacement of your engine? And your engine only takes FOUR quarts? No wonder it dirties up so quickly too.

For the next two months, pump premium gas, perferably Shell, because their gas offers the cleanest burn (however expect a crappier gas mileage then other brands). Also switch your oil over to a synthetic. Synthetic is more resistant to burning then dino oil. Every three gas pumps dump in a bottle of Vavoline engine cleaner. ($3 at wally world)

At the end of the two months stop with the vavoline engine cleaner and the first four pumps, dump in two bottles of Chevron (not at the same time). This stuff makes it harder for deposits to cling to your fuel lines, and engine parts, stays in the oil gets filtered or replaced. Also don't forget to change your oil between the switch from Vavoline to Chevron.

The reason I tell you to do this, is because the flush that your mechanic did broke away all the coarse stuff already, now you're just "fine sanding" the rest. Also use a Mobile 1 or K&N oil filter.

I don't get it, why add chevron techron to shell oil? why not just use chevron gas all the time?

and my engine uses just over 4 quarts, aluminum block 3.0L.

 

[TNM93]

Usually change mine every 6000-7000 miles. I check the dipstick to see whether it's old or not. I've never used full synthetic but I hear you can get 15,000 miles on them.

 

[cjgallen]

Originally posted by: Mermaidman
One of our cars has a 'oil-life monitor.' It counts down from 100%. Should I go with this monitor or stick with the mileage practice?

Go by the mileage in the OWNER'S MANUAL, which is probably what the count-down thing does anyway.

Unless you have a rotary engine or an air-cooled without a real oil filter, every 3000 miles is a WASTE. The vast majority can go 5000-10000 miles between changes.

10k on an oil change

From Blackstone Labs: Try 12,000 miles on the next oil. Nice wearing engine.

 

[ScottFern]

I have some SeaFoam at home waiting to be dumped in the gas tank and sucked in through the vacuum lines to clean all the gunk out. However, it is IMPERATIVE that you ALWAYS change the oil right after you run one of these fuel system cleaners through the system because alot of the unburned cleaner gets in the oil as well as other contaminants.

I change my oil every 2200 miles or so because I am paranoid (has 129,000 miles) and its a GM vehicle.

 

[91TTZ]

On my daily driver I rarely change the oil. I add oil when it gets low, but I don't change it often. I didn't on my last daily driver and it lasted 210,000 miles. With this daily driver, a Saturn, it has lasted me 224,000 miles so far.

If changing the oil every 3000 miles helps, it doesn't help much.

 

[Freejack2]

With my job change I went from needing to change my every month to needing to change it every 4 or 5 months. Now I have to remember it's been a few months and needs a change instead of having done on a set day every month.

 

[Vette73]

Originally posted by: ScottFern
I have some SeaFoam at home waiting to be dumped in the gas tank and sucked in through the vacuum lines to clean all the gunk out. However, it is IMPERATIVE that you ALWAYS change the oil right after you run one of these fuel system cleaners through the system because alot of the unburned cleaner gets in the oil as well as other contaminants.

I change my oil every 2200 miles or so because I am paranoid (has 129,000 miles) and its a GM vehicle.

Yep sucking the sefoam through the PCV vacuum line is what a LOT of C5 corvette owners do. Some C5's suck a lot of oil through PCV line and it gets in the throttle body/upper intake. But also i agree, change your oil right after you do this.

 

[Eli]

Originally posted by: cjgallen

Originally posted by: Mermaidman
One of our cars has a 'oil-life monitor.' It counts down from 100%. Should I go with this monitor or stick with the mileage practice?

Go by the mileage in the OWNER'S MANUAL, which is probably what the count-down thing does anyway.

Unless you have a rotary engine or an air-cooled without a real oil filter, every 3000 miles is a WASTE. The vast majority can go 5000-10000 miles between changes.

10k on an oil change

From Blackstone Labs: Try 12,000 miles on the next oil. Nice wearing engine.

:thumbsup:

 

[myusername]

Originally posted by: Marlin1975

Originally posted by: ScottFern
I have some SeaFoam at home waiting to be dumped in the gas tank and sucked in through the vacuum lines to clean all the gunk out. However, it is IMPERATIVE that you ALWAYS change the oil right after you run one of these fuel system cleaners through the system because alot of the unburned cleaner gets in the oil as well as other contaminants.

I change my oil every 2200 miles or so because I am paranoid (has 129,000 miles) and its a GM vehicle.

Yep sucking the sefoam through the PCV vacuum line is what a LOT of C5 corvette owners do. Some C5's suck a lot of oil through PCV line and it gets in the throttle body/upper intake. But also i agree, change your oil right after you do this.

Hmmm. I dumped half a can in the fuel tank, half a can down the TB and half a can in the crankcase last friday... probably won't get around to changing it until this friday.

Fun times blowing massive quantites of smoke at neighbors.

 

[Theguynextdoor]

Originally posted by: Mermaidman
One of our cars has a 'oil-life monitor.' It counts down from 100%. Should I go with this monitor or stick with the mileage practice?

My car has it too. It's a good rule of thumb though. Depending on what kind of oil you're running, how hard you drive and if your car can take dino oil or not.

For example I have a 5.7L Aluminum block. Takes synthetic only. If you drive it hard and are using dino oil, recommended to change your oil at 40-50% life remaining. Dino oil "curds" as it gets old thus the reason why. Syn can go to about 25-35%. Remember even though the oils are rated to such high mileages, your OIL FILTER is not going to be peforming the same as it was new.

 

[Theguynextdoor]

Originally posted by: tkotitan2

Originally posted by: Theguynextdoor
What's the displacement of your engine? And your engine only takes FOUR quarts? No wonder it dirties up so quickly too.

For the next two months, pump premium gas, perferably Shell, because their gas offers the cleanest burn (however expect a crappier gas mileage then other brands). Also switch your oil over to a synthetic. Synthetic is more resistant to burning then dino oil. Every three gas pumps dump in a bottle of Vavoline engine cleaner. ($3 at wally world)

At the end of the two months stop with the vavoline engine cleaner and the first four pumps, dump in two bottles of Chevron (not at the same time). This stuff makes it harder for deposits to cling to your fuel lines, and engine parts, stays in the oil gets filtered or replaced. Also don't forget to change your oil between the switch from Vavoline to Chevron.

Thanks for the info. I'm pretty sure my car has a 2.0liter displacement, but it is only a straight-4 SOHC. 190k on it. I have already been running straight 93 octane in the engine and plan on continuing, but alas, no shell stations near me, but I do have the cheapest gas station (a mobil of all places) in my county right in my hometown. I'm not so sure I'll switch to synthetic oil just yet, i'll wait a couple changes and see how things go. I commute 2000 miles a month so I will be changing it every month for a while to monitor progress. I change it myself cuz we have a pit in our garage. I drive hard in the VT hills and fast on the interstate to work so we'll see pretty quick how things hold up.

I was wondering what to look for in those cleaners you mentioned. VT gets lousy stock of everything so should I look for "Valvoline engine cleaner" or "injector cleaner" and what exact type of "Chevron" to look for. Kinda new to the addatives stuff. Wondering if I should place an online order to save some dough.

I'm not so sure the crud was from burn though, I religiously check my oil level and rarely have to add any oil. It may be from my old gas tank whose low pressure pump was old and dying, maybe the tank and sending lines were bad for a while before I broke them. I have a new, clean tank in so things in that area are better off now. I may look into doing an oil test after treating things for a couple months.

You have an iron block, which is more prone to wear down with particles, and more resistant to overheating. (Which causes more carbon deposites from burnt oil and bad fuel).


Mobile's gas is ok. Look for Valvoline's complete fuel system treatment. Or even better is Prestone's new line that I've had pretty good luck. (My engine definitly feels "peppier" after two cleanings). I don't bother ordering that stuff online, but feel at $2.59 a bottle it's not a bad deal.

Chevron is a little cheaper. $1.99. Also your car is older so after you do all this switch back to dino oil (It's better at filling in the gaps). Make sure you get a higher weight oil 10w30 or 15w30. And ALWAYS let your car run for AT LEAST 40 seconds before driving it off. This allows for the oil to fully circulate from the bottom of the pan to the topper internals. Remember most of an engines wear occurs at startup of the car.

I'm not saying your car's oil is curding. I'm just saying that dino oil has a tendency to do that if it gets overused. It just doesn't last as long.

 

[Theguynextdoor]

BTW I have a 2000 C5. No oil burns here, but it is a common problem.

 

[Minjin]

edit: RE: 940 Turbo problems

Sounds like a boost leak to me. Check all the hoses from the turbo to the intake.

Mark

 

[Theguynextdoor]

Originally posted by: ysperalda
Usually change mine every 6000-7000 miles. I check the dipstick to see whether it's old or not. I've never used full synthetic but I hear you can get 15,000 miles on them.

But you won't get 15kmi from your oil filter.

 

[Theguynextdoor]

Originally posted by: jaedaliu

Originally posted by: Theguynextdoor
What's the displacement of your engine? And your engine only takes FOUR quarts? No wonder it dirties up so quickly too.

For the next two months, pump premium gas, perferably Shell, because their gas offers the cleanest burn (however expect a crappier gas mileage then other brands). Also switch your oil over to a synthetic. Synthetic is more resistant to burning then dino oil. Every three gas pumps dump in a bottle of Vavoline engine cleaner. ($3 at wally world)

At the end of the two months stop with the vavoline engine cleaner and the first four pumps, dump in two bottles of Chevron (not at the same time). This stuff makes it harder for deposits to cling to your fuel lines, and engine parts, stays in the oil gets filtered or replaced. Also don't forget to change your oil between the switch from Vavoline to Chevron.

The reason I tell you to do this, is because the flush that your mechanic did broke away all the coarse stuff already, now you're just "fine sanding" the rest. Also use a Mobile 1 or K&N oil filter.

I don't get it, why add chevron techron to shell oil? why not just use chevron gas all the time?

and my engine uses just over 4 quarts, aluminum block 3.0L.

Cocentration, you want the Techron to "soak-in" as soon as possible while all the parts are clean. After that it's an option really.