Whoops receiver is a little too deep...

[brotj7]

Ok, I saw another price drop on an Onkyo TX-NR 808 bringing it down to only $100 more than the 708 and I let the feature creep mindset in, and got it. However I forgot to remeasure for the cupboard for the 808 So with a loss of 3 inches it will be touching the back of the cupboard. My original plan was to cut a slit at the top back of the cupboard for venting, but I'm worrying that might not be enough.

So I'm looking for a fan I can put in the back to help venting. There is a 2 1/2"D x 24W hole in the back of the cupboards shelf for cables and such, my original plan was to drill some 1/2 holes in the bottom back of the cupboard which would passively allow air in which would be heated by the components and naturally form a current of heat out the back top. Now with the back 3 inches taken up, the free flowing air is not possible, so a fan would be needed to help the heat stream.

I found this site: http://www.ventingdirect.com/utility-ventilation-exhaust-fans/c11870,
but those all look like extremely loud fans. I do need something that will work off of a regular wall socket. Two low RPM 120mm fans would be great, maybe something like a laptop cooler that could be repourposed would be good. I would like it to be variable based on the heat temp. Obviously seasonal temperatures could cause such a system to be on even if the equipment was off, so programmable would be awesome too.

So what do you guys think???

 

[velillen]

If the back of the receiver is touching the back of your cabinet how are you going to hook up any cables?

As for cooling just remember the onkyo's all have top vents for heat to rise out of. An interesting idea might be have a "intake" duct with say 120mm fan bblowing air towards the receiver with say a card board/pvc tube to direct the air from the fan to one side of the receiver. Then do the same with the other side but have the fan suck air creating a sor of flow of air through the ports in the receiver. Dunno how well it would actually work but hey my quick idea you can get some dang quiet fans too that push 20-30CFM of air which would probably be enough (maybe, have to know what temperatures get like in your area). Could just have the fans on when you use the receiver, maybe even wire it together somehow so when the receiver turns on the fans do as well.

Ive never been a fan of the both intake and extake being in the back without some sort of flow direction for the intake. Just my feeling that the exhaust will prevent the intake from really cooling the whole space/target area as effectively as a duct of sorts.

There is my ramblings at least maybe itll give ya some sort of idea

 

[brotj7]

Yeah, I'm going to have to cut out the back for cables

Our entertainment center is a dark expresso and our walls are a decently bright white. To help hide the background color I would like to keep the cuts as small as possible(like just enough to fit the back panel and fans). Our entertainment center was over 2K and is pretty ornate, the WAF is of utmost importance.

I found this site: http://www.diamondcase.com/Knowledge/Knowledge_HTML/Ventilation_Fans.HTML

which seems pretty clean looking. I did spend more than I wanted to on the sound system itself(the rest of my liquid cash) and I don't use credit, so I would like something like that website provides, only much cheaper. I wouldn't be opposed to finding some parts and building the fan control system myself if I can make it look good in the end. I do have some panaflo L1a's that have never been used, but I'm not really sure how to go about setting up the controllers.

 

[velillen]

That does look nice. i am sure you could do it yourself for cheaper. Since its the back it wouldnt be to terrible if it didnt look as nice (i hope at least). What is the front like? Doors or open?

There are options such as
http://www.coolerguys.com/840556082224.html

Which look like they might be what ya need. two 120mm fans with temperature control. least it gives ya an idea i just searched google with "cabinet cooling kit" and got quite a few cheaper (ie sub 100 bucks) options

 

[Apex]

I use two of these for my wine cabinet (I have insufficient room at the top):

http://hometheatercooling.com/PQFan.html

They're very very quiet and move a good amount of air.

To turn them on and off, I'm using one of these:

http://www.luxproproducts.com/thermostats_program/psp300.htm

There's probably better, cheaper thermostats now. That was back in '07.

 

[brotj7]

velillen: sweet, thank you so much that is exactly what I was looking for. I'm going to do the cabcool 1202 (2x120 with the led in plate), and my own L1a's for the bottom. I love they include the extra fan 3 pin power adaptors too. That really helps out.

Apex: Thank you also, but coolerguys has the WAF I'm looking for.

 

[velillen]

Just as long as you remember i have no idea how ell itll actually work. They were just the best looking ones i found in all of a 2 minute search But at least if the fans are to loud or something they look replaceable

 

[Modelworks]

I use a 120mm pc fan with a wall adapter similar to the coolerguys setup. No need to spend a lot to accomplish the task. I cut the back of the shelf that holds the gear and mounted the fan similar to how you would do it in a pc case. Works well and only cost about $15.

 

[brotj7]

I have had friends back in the day do this kind mod with HTPC's, so I'm sure this will work out fine. In a worst case scenerio, I might just have to drill a few more holes than I wanted to. Thanks again all

 

[sdifox]

how far forward can you make it. As in move the receiver forward so the legs are on the front ledge.

 

[brotj7]

The volume knob touches the doors glass...

I already started cutting out the hole yesterday thinking I could finish while my wife was at work and not see the mess. I pulled all of the components and cables out of the cupboard, then I used a dremel for a rough cut. The cutting wouldn't have made such a mess, except when I got ~1/2 done I broke a piece of the backing out so I could manuver better, and that gaping hole allowed dust out the back of the cupboard which covered the wall and the back of the entertainment center. So today I am pulling the top pieces off, the bookcases will get empty'd and pulled off of the center block. Then I'm going to clean up my mess, and take the center console to the garage to finish the cutting and sanding with a jigsaw and belt sander. Overall I need to extend the cut ~1" on the right, and to prep the holes for the fans.

 

[sdifox]

The volume knob touches the doors glass...

I already started cutting out the hole yesterday thinking I could finish while my wife was at work and not see the mess. I pulled all of the components and cables out of the cupboard, then I used a dremel for a rough cut. The cutting wouldn't have made such a mess, except when I got ~1/2 done I broke a piece of the backing out so I could manuver better, and that gaping hole allowed dust out the back of the cupboard which covered the wall and the back of the entertainment center. So today I am pulling the top pieces off, the bookcases will get empty'd and pulled off of the center block. Then I'm going to clean up my mess, and take the center console to the garage to finish the cutting and sanding with a jigsaw and belt sander. Overall I need to extend the cut ~1" on the right, and to prep the holes for the fans.

but you never use the volume knob, or does yours turn when you change the volume with the remote?

 

[velillen]

but you never use the volume knob, or does yours turn when you change the volume with the remote?

my understanding is even with the knob touching the glass the back still is to close to the backwall to hook up cabes. That is what he is cutting is access to the back of the receiver for cable hookup. though i might be wrong

 

[brotj7]

Yup, velillen has it right. In the front, the receiver only fit because of a little bit of recessed space the glass in the door provided. Then in the back I had to cut out a section in the back for all of the cables to connect. I also made a cut for one of cooler guys "cabcool 1202" above the receiver, and 2 more cuts in the backing for the lower shelf for fresh air. I plan on using my old unused 120mm panflo L1A for the bottom because the unit I got from cooler guys will also control them. Then I made some more circular cuts in the shelf itself underneth the receiver for air flow. There are two 80mm fans inside the Onkyo 808 receiver which should provide a nice little cooling loop.

 

[velillen]

pictures please! Curious how it all looks. how do you like the cabcool 1202?