Who should I go with, dealership or local mechanic?

[Narmer]

When I do a search for 'Rotors' I get these two:
Rotor:
$270 31206-RAA-A01
$188 31101-RDJ-A01

 

[Vette73]

I'm thinking of buying the parts and having a trusted mechanic do it. But if you guys believe that different people have different opinions as to the best pads and rotors, I will settle for the OEM parts.

The stuff I listed is very good. I have used the cheaper items and never had issue. Installation is as important if not more so then the parts sometimes.
I also have the ThermoQuiet pads on my Truck right now.

When I had my shop I installed some of the cheapest brakes on cars and made them work well. These were things other people brought me. Think $9 brake pad set. For only $10 more they could have got some decent stuff… but you can’t explain that to everybody.

 

[Narmer]

The stuff I listed is very good. I have used the cheaper items and never had issue. Installation is as important if not more so then the parts sometimes.
I also have the ThermoQuiet pads on my Truck right now.

When I had my shop I installed some of the cheapest brakes on cars and made them work well. These were things other people brought me. Think $9 brake pad set. For only $10 more they could have got some decent stuff… but you can’t explain that to everybody.

So these pads are manufacturer-independent?

 

[Vette73]

So these pads are manufacturer-independent?

Wagner is part of one of the largest makers of auto parts. They are owned by Federal Mogul who also makes Moog, Champion plugs, Fel-Pro gaskets, etc...

So yea they are good.

 

[Gibson486]

I'm thinking of buying the parts and having a trusted mechanic do it. But if you guys believe that different people have different opinions as to the best pads and rotors, I will settle for the OEM parts.

well....thing is, OEM is just some rebadged third party part 95% of the time. Thing is, you never know who made it, but it definitely wasn't the car company. As a result, you pay a premium for it because it's "made for your car". It's not bad thing, you are just paying for piece of mind. Also, they could have switched parts to a different brand half way through production. You never know.

 

[Narmer]

Wagner is part of one of the largest makers of auto parts. They are owned by Federal Mogul who also makes Moog, Champion plugs, Fel-Pro gaskets, etc...

So yea they are good.

I decided to go with these pads:http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2005/acura/mdx/brake/brake_pad_set.html

Any reason why the rotors here are so much more than yours?:http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2005/acura/mdx/brake/brake_rotor_set.html

Also, it says it's for the front, Don't I need some for the rear?

 

[Vette73]

^

Those are drilled and slotted, you do not need that at all. In fact they eat your pads up faster. They look cool but thats about it for most street drivers.

Just get the normal rotors and you will be fine.

 

[Narmer]

^

Those are drilled and slotted, you do not need that at all. In fact they eat your pads up faster. They look cool but thats about it for most street drivers.

Just get the normal rotors and you will be fine.

Yeah, I don't care about cool, just quality. I prefer a one-stop shop. Could you post something you'd recommend on that site? Also, why was the one from the Honda store also so expensive compared to yours? The ones I posted yesterday were like $270.

 

[Paperlantern]

OK, I'm trying to price this. I went to the official OEM store:
https://estore.honda.com/asp/submitselectdealer.asp?selecteddealer=251511&

I'm getting these two for a total of $139.56, no discount.
Brake Pad set Front: 45022-S3V-A11
Brake Pad set Rear: 43022-S3V-A11
Would this include the rotors? I don't see anything that explicitly says 'rotors'

No, that does not include rotors based on those part descriptions. Pads are just that, pads. Not rotors. Those are some expensive pads, I think the premium pads from Advance auto, AND rotors for my car came to $140.

Why the rear as well, and did the local tech look at it?

You should not eat through pads that quick, esp the rear.

I agree here, my pads and rotors are shot only now, they are original and the car has 200,000 miles on it. I'm replacing all four sets of pads and all four rotors next weekend at a friend's house. However the car still stops fine, smooth and with little pedal pressure, if I hadnt LOOKED at the pads and rotors that closely, just by how the car drives, I wouldn't have known. A car with 25,000 miles should NOT HARDLY need brakes yet, either the person telling you they are at 5% is lying, or those brakes have been installed wrong, or ridden EXTREMELY hard.

 

[Narmer]

No, that does not include rotors based on those part descriptions. Pads are just that, pads. Not rotors. Those are some expensive pads, I think the premium pads from Advance auto, AND rotors for my car came to $140.



I agree here, my pads and rotors are shot only now, they are original and the car has 200,000 miles on it. I'm replacing all four sets of pads and all four rotors next weekend at a friend's house. However the car still stops fine, smooth and with little pedal pressure, if I hadnt LOOKED at the pads and rotors that closely, just by how the car drives, I wouldn't have known. A car with 25,000 miles should NOT HARDLY need brakes yet, either the person telling you they are at 5% is lying, or those brakes have been installed wrong, or ridden EXTREMELY hard.

I bought this car brand new and I treat it like a baby. It hasn't been ridden hard. When I took it in for inspection in December, I was told it was at 15%. When I took it to the local mechanic, he drove it for about 1 minute and started complaining about the brakes. After looking at it, he said they may be at 5%. I checked an MDX forum online and an individual was getting his brake pads changed at 6ok miles. They may have worn out faster because I live in NYC and I do a lot of local driving.

 

[DietDrThunder]

It's more cost effective to go new, as opposed to resurfacing old rotors.

Not necessarilly. When I change the pads on my vehicles, I have the rotors resurfaced at the same time. The shop only charges me $7.50 a rotor to resurface.

No one will recommend using new pads with old rotors unless they've been resurfaced. They (the old pads and rotors) have a wear pattern that new pads and old rotors just won't jive properly.

Besides, most of the brake feel is in the rotors if the old ones are warped or damaged.

I agree.

I did replace the rear rotors on our old Buick when my wife drove around for 2 days with the parking brake on (Woman! couldn't you smell something was burning?), which were warped.

I also question why the rear pads/rotors need to be replaced. I've done many brake jobs over the years, and at 24,000 miles, I can't see how it is possible that the rears are worn enough to replace. Most of the braking occurs with the front wheels, usually with a heavy engine above the front (unless you own a rear engined, rear wheel drive vehicle, i.e. Porshe).

 

[fleshconsumed]

Not necessarilly. When I change the pads on my vehicles, I have the rotors resurfaced at the same time. The shop only charges me $7.50 a rotor to resurface.

That's cheap. Lowest over here is like $20. Where do you live?

 

[Vette73]

Yeah, I don't care about cool, just quality. I prefer a one-stop shop. Could you post something you'd recommend on that site? Also, why was the one from the Honda store also so expensive compared to yours? The ones I posted yesterday were like $270.

The Pronto Brake Rotor Front: $27 Rear: $24 basic style rotor.

The Centric Brake Rotor Front: $50 Rear: $46 is a good prem rotor that is not slotted/drilled. I swore these are cheaper at rockauto?

The rest are over priced, esp compared to Rockauto.com

But again I doubt you need rear pads/rotors. I would just get the front and have the rear looked at when they do them.

 

[DietDrThunder]

I bought this car brand new and I treat it like a baby. It hasn't been ridden hard. When I took it in for inspection in December, I was told it was at 15%. When I took it to the local mechanic, he drove it for about 1 minute and started complaining about the brakes. After looking at it, he said they may be at 5%. I checked an MDX forum online and an individual was getting his brake pads changed at 6ok miles. They may have worn out faster because I live in NYC and I do a lot of local driving.

It almost sounds to me like you've got a mechanic that is in need of some quick, easy money. I can see that the fronts could need to be replaced in HEAVY, city driving, but still not the rears. Pull the rear wheel off and inspect the pad yourself. If the pads are less than 1/4" thick, you might want to replace them. If not, I wouldn't.

 

[DietDrThunder]

That's cheap. Lowest over here is like $20. Where do you live?

I live in Fort Worth, TX. I take it to a local, mom and pop machine shop called Automotive Machine and Supply http://www.automotivemachine.com/ . They even did the brake drums for my '63 Chevrolet for the same price.

 

[Narmer]

It almost sounds to me like you've got a mechanic that is in need of some quick, easy money. I can see that the fronts could need to be replaced in HEAVY, city driving, but still not the rears. Pull the rear wheel off and inspect the pad yourself. If the pads are less than 1/4" thick, you might want to replace them. If not, I wouldn't.

OK. I will have a trusted mechanic look at it along with some other people before I make any purchases.

 

[Paperlantern]

I bought this car brand new and I treat it like a baby. It hasn't been ridden hard. When I took it in for inspection in December, I was told it was at 15%. When I took it to the local mechanic, he drove it for about 1 minute and started complaining about the brakes. After looking at it, he said they may be at 5%. I checked an MDX forum online and an individual was getting his brake pads changed at 6ok miles. They may have worn out faster because I live in NYC and I do a lot of local driving.

I also live in a city and was a field service tech here for 5 years, this car has been ABUSED and still only just now needs brakes (though they probably could have stood to be replaced a couple years back, only NOW are they to the point of like less than 5% and NEED to be replaced), 5% life on a car with 25k on it says to me somethings wrong. Lying mechanic, poorly installed brakes, defective pads, REALLY hard braking at EVERY stop for the life of the car, SOMETHING isn't right.

I know you say you do a lot of local driving, but 25k in 5 years... thats 5k a year, average is 10k, and to qualify for A LOT of any kind of driving its usually 12k+ per year. My car had 100,000 miles on it when it was 5 years old. And it certainly wasnt in desperate need of brakes.

 

[Narmer]

I also live in a city and was a field service tech here for 5 years, this car has been ABUSED and still only just now needs brakes (though they probably could have stood to be replaced a couple years back, only NOW are they to the point of like less than 5% and NEED to be replaced), 5% life on a car with 25k on it says to me somethings wrong. Lying mechanic, poorly installed brakes, defective pads, REALLY hard braking at EVERY stop for the life of the car, SOMETHING isn't right.

I know you say you do a lot of local driving, but 25k in 5 years... thats 5k a year, average is 10k, and to qualify for A LOT of any kind of driving its usually 12k+ per year. My car had 100,000 miles on it when it was 5 years old. And it certainly wasnt in desperate need of brakes.

Well, I am the only person that drives this car and I do not break hard at all. In fact, I prefer coasting rather than accelerating and deccelerating (sic?). So if they were installed wrong, then they were done at the factory.

Of course, it could be me but I seriously doubt it but who knows. But I'm at this point where we stand, things need to be replaced.

 

[Paperlantern]

Well, I am the only person that drives this car and I do not break hard at all. In fact, I prefer coasting rather than accelerating and deccelerating (sic?). So if they were installed wrong, then they were done at the factory.

Of course, it could be me but I seriously doubt it but who knows. But I'm at this point where we stand, things need to be replaced.

Are you sure?

Well, the one place said 15%, then some time down the road someone else is saying 5%, or was it the same place?

Improperly installed at the factory is a possibility. A low one, but a possibility nonetheless. Still fishy to me.

 

[Narmer]

Are you sure?

Well, the one place said 15%, then some time down the road someone else is saying 5%, or was it the same place?

Improperly installed at the factory is a possibility. A low one, but a possibility nonetheless. Still fishy to me.

15% at Acura of Manhattan on 12/18/2009
5% (after cursory look) at local mechanic on 7/27/2010

 

[jlee]

^ Most places offer free shipping. I think OP should buy the stuff himself, read reviews on brands and just bring the parts in to a good mechanic.

Do you live in a cold climate? Many aftermarket Pads are pretty bad in the cold till they heat up, look into it.

Not Rock Auto, unfortunately.

 

[Vette73]

Not Rock Auto, unfortunately.

The 5% coupon usually covers most of the shipping.

 

[Gibson486]

The 5% coupon usually covers most of the shipping.

not when you get stuff that is shipped from multiple places. Also, Rotors cost at least $12 to ship.

 

[Vette73]

not when you get stuff that is shipped from multiple places. Also, Rotors cost at least $12 to ship.

That use to be a big issue but they now put a picture beside items that ship from the same place as items in your cart.

So I add the items where there is no other one there and then hunt down the rest of the stuff I need. So I get my Rad. cap for $5 instead of $4 but I save $6+ on shipping and so forth.

I e-mailed them once about shipping and got a very honest and quick replay. Since then they added what I said above and their rates are very fair. Rotors of course are heavy but I found rotors plus other items the shipping does not climb as much. But I also buy local if shipping + part is not a good deal. I donlt limit myself to one place, but I do get a fair amount of items from RA.

I just put 2 Corvette rotors in a cart. It was $30 shipped. But I then added another rotor and shipping dropped to $29. So weird things like that happen but try different parts and you will be surprised.
Yep found 2 rotors that ship for $18 for my corvette. Different type then the first 2 I tried but still work.

 

[CraigRT]

Not necessarilly. When I change the pads on my vehicles, I have the rotors resurfaced at the same time. The shop only charges me $7.50 a rotor to resurface.



I agree.

I did replace the rear rotors on our old Buick when my wife drove around for 2 days with the parking brake on (Woman! couldn't you smell something was burning?), which were warped.

I also question why the rear pads/rotors need to be replaced. I've done many brake jobs over the years, and at 24,000 miles, I can't see how it is possible that the rears are worn enough to replace. Most of the braking occurs with the front wheels, usually with a heavy engine above the front (unless you own a rear engined, rear wheel drive vehicle, i.e. Porshe).

Holy crap, I wish we had your prices around here, rotor resurfacing is pennies less than new rotors on a car like my Saturn.

New rotors are like $20-25 each, and resurfacing is like $20.

I always buy new because of this.