Who makes the best synthetic oil?

[fbrdphreak]

Do passenger cars have a oil quality sensor that can raise a flag/alarm/"idiot light" when the oil is no longer suitable to protect the engine?

Most newer cars have an oil service interval system. Can't say I know how it works or how reliable they are. I'd just stick with the mileage/time system.

 

[thescreensavers]

I run Castrol Syntec 5W-30 its one of the best wearing oils for my car, German Castrol is even better. This is proven by UOAs.

But M1 across the board is horrible for my car/engine VQ. Since they reformulated back 07 they have not been as good any more.

Yes, some people might say its overkill to use synthetic but majority of the oils you buy in the store that say they are synthetic are really not, so you are just buying top of the line dino oil with a little of synthetic love in it. Aka castrol syntec/Edge ( NOT German Castrol)

And I always buy oil only when they have Castrol Syntec on sale with a good filter for 30 bucks.

Right now I think Advance is doing 5qts castrol syntec and K&N oil filter for 32 bucks.

I would never use the OEM nissan filters, they are exactly the same as the chepo frams. Also My dads LS always used the Denso filters, which are high flow, low filtering filters, the oil would get dirty quick. with a Bosch Distance Plus( a good filter) the oil looks a lot cleaner and it looks like its actually filtering now.

 

[Meghan54]

Most newer cars have an oil service interval system. Can't say I know how it works or how reliable they are. I'd just stick with the mileage/time system.

Depends on the car/manufacturer. Some are nothing more than time/distance systems....nothing more than what you can do with watching your odo.

Some count crank revolutions, probably a bit more accurate than just time/distance, esp. if you idle a lot in traffic.

 

[Imyourzero]

Sucks that Mobil 1 went downhill. I haven't heard much about Castrol Syntec, but I know Amsoil and Royal Purple were always recommended by the hardcore guys that were really particular (paranoid?) about the health and performance of their engines.

So of all the synthetic motor oil available at say, Walmart, little of it is actually worth paying the premium for? If so, gotta love marketing. Too bad there seemingly isn't a lot of irrefutable, hard data on the subject. Of course everyone says their product is the best for your engine, but what about objective studies by unbiased, reputable sources?

 

[Meghan54]

So of all the synthetic motor oil available at say, Walmart, little of it is actually worth paying the premium for? If so, gotta love marketing. Too bad there seemingly isn't a lot of irrefutable, hard data on the subject. Of course everyone says their product is the best for your engine, but what about objective studies by unbiased, reputable sources?

Well, as has been said before, a lot depends upon the engine, loads, etc. the vehicle has and is being used.

In my Chrysler Lebaron turbo, synthetic always. But turbos themselves run HOT, and coking the turbo's bearing after engine shutoff is a very valid concern.

For typical family vehicles, probably just a placebo effect with synthetics, unless the manufacturer specifically calls for its use.

On the other hand, there are many engines around that are known sludge-a-matics. In them, I'd run a synthetic...

I also run synths in my '02 Blazer, mainly due to living in the South (gets hot down here.....has been at or higher than 100F for the last 3-4 weeks not), using it to tow a boat every weekend and tow lots of other crap (two other trailers...one enclosed, one open) from auctions, constant use of the A/C during most of the year (from March-October), and just simple peace of mind given our use of the vehicle. 210K miles and still doesn't burn a 1/2 quart in 5-6K miles. Engine'll probably outlast the rest of the vehicle.

 

[iGas]

I run Castrol Syntec 5W-30 its one of the best wearing oils for my car, German Castrol is even better. This is proven by UOAs.

But M1 across the board is horrible for my car/engine VQ. Since they reformulated back 07 they have not been as good any more.

Yes, some people might say its overkill to use synthetic but majority of the oils you buy in the store that say they are synthetic are really not, so you are just buying top of the line dino oil with a little of synthetic love in it. Aka castrol syntec/Edge ( NOT German Castrol)

And I always buy oil only when they have Castrol Syntec on sale with a good filter for 30 bucks.

Right now I think Advance is doing 5qts castrol syntec and K&N oil filter for 32 bucks.

I would never use the OEM nissan filters, they are exactly the same as the chepo frams. Also My dads LS always used the Denso filters, which are high flow, low filtering filters, the oil would get dirty quick. with a Bosch Distance Plus( a good filter) the oil looks a lot cleaner and it looks like its actually filtering now.

Where did you get your fact sir?

I read synthetic came from the same source as conventional dino juice oil. it just that synthetic are process differently hence the particles are slightly smaller & more uniform and may contain less contaminates. Tests shown that synthetic is slightly better than conventional oil at high temperature and lower starting temperature. However, synthetic isn't going to benefit the average user that doesn't regularly red line their car or pull heavy load that may push the oil to its limit.

 

[iGas]

Well, as has been said before, a lot depends upon the engine, loads, etc. the vehicle has and is being used.

In my Chrysler Lebaron turbo, synthetic always. But turbos themselves run HOT, and coking the turbo's bearing after engine shutoff is a very valid concern.

For typical family vehicles, probably just a placebo effect with synthetics, unless the manufacturer specifically calls for its use.

On the other hand, there are many engines around that are known sludge-a-matics. In them, I'd run a synthetic...

I also run synths in my '02 Blazer, mainly due to living in the South (gets hot down here.....has been at or higher than 100F for the last 3-4 weeks not), using it to tow a boat every weekend and tow lots of other crap (two other trailers...one enclosed, one open) from auctions, constant use of the A/C during most of the year (from March-October), and just simple peace of mind given our use of the vehicle. 210K miles and still doesn't burn a 1/2 quart in 5-6K miles. Engine'll probably outlast the rest of the vehicle.

What your engine temperature read out shown?

Race car drivers doesn't like to push their engine pass 270F on conventional oil and 290F on 100% synthetic oil.

 

[thescreensavers]

Where did you get your fact sir?

I read synthetic came from the same source as conventional dino juice oil. it just that synthetic are process differently hence the particles are slightly smaller & more uniform and may contain less contaminates. Tests shown that synthetic is slightly better than conventional oil at high temperature and lower starting temperature. However, synthetic isn't going to benefit the average user that doesn't regularly red line their car or pull heavy load that may push the oil to its limit.

Looking at the MSDS, Castrol Syntec is 90 percent highly refined Oil, so is edge (70 percent) ,penzoil, M1..ect

I think Advance and autozone started selling royal purple? Thats a Group Iv or V oil(forgot) but it constantly gets is butt kicked in UOA by the fake synthetics. or you can call them semi-synthetics. They all read "Full Synthetic" or say Synthetic on them, but they don't tell you they are only have 10 to 30 percent of Group IV or V stock in them.

In Europe they cannot sell the fake synthetics as they have a different law on how oil qualifies as synthetic. German Castrol is True synthetic. If you can find that stuff its gold.

Thus most of the "Synthetics" you buy at the local store are just top of the line Conventional oil with some synthetic in it. Being a semi synthetic does not mean it will always be worse then a full synthetic.

Castrol Syntec which is what I use, is one of THE best oils for the VQ motor, based on UOA showing it wearing the best.

 

[Apex]

Skoorb nailed it. Pretty much unless your engine is air-cooled or has forced induction you just plain don't need synthetic for a street car.

ZV

I would also add to the short list engines that require it from the manufacturer (ie. the BMW M5/M6 S85 V10, which calls for Castrol TWS 10w-60 synthetic). It's not worth the hassle of arguing with the manufacturer on a $40k engine to save a few bucks per oil change, especially when the manufacturer seems to love to void warranties.

 

[T2urtle]

i did a UoA on my VQ35 in the G35, i ran 4100 miles on 5w-30 GTX and they told me to try it at 6000k miles... GTX 5w-30 only cost me $13.50 per jug at walmart. Running this with Pureone Gold filters.

You dont always have to look at syn oils... i would only do that if your turbo-ed or running a nonstock motor. Just preference... i use redline fluids in my whole drivetrain system. But i'm considering going Amsoil...

 

[SickBeast]

Wow, lots of replies. Thanks for all the info everyone.

I forgot to mention that I sometimes need to start my car in -35C weather here in Canada, so I figure that synthetic will be of some use to me. I also drive my Civic quite hard, and I'll bet it makes a difference on a hot summer day when I redline it.

I couldn't really figure out that oilguys website. It looks interesting though and I'm going to give it a better read later today.

Thanks again everyone for your input.

 

[rootaxs]

I run Castrol Syntec 5W-30 its one of the best wearing oils for my car, German Castrol is even better. This is proven by UOAs.

But M1 across the board is horrible for my car/engine VQ. Since they reformulated back 07 they have not been as good any more.

Although i agree that the German Castrol is pretty good, i don't think M1 is horrible for the VQ across the board.

I had a DE and ran well with the regular M1 synth (UO Analyzed) paired with (then) M1-105 filters, and it's still running great after 130k miles. The other DE, not so much.

My current HR on M1 EP (extended performance) and M1-110 filters, currently on 7k OCI's, Blackstone is reporting some pretty good results and even recommended trying 9k next time around. I have it on 'Driver in the 2nd gen engine section. 🙂

 

[fbrdphreak]

I forgot to mention that I sometimes need to start my car in -35C weather here in Canada, so I figure that synthetic will be of some use to me. I also drive my Civic quite hard, and I'll bet it makes a difference on a hot summer day when I redline it.

Read your owner's manual. It will have a little scale, showing which weight oil to use depending on the temperature ranges your car sees. It will also list a certification that the oil must meet. Most oils will meet this. Find said oil in proper weight and certification. Use regular dino and change every ~5K. Use synthetic and go longer. Use OEM filter. [/thread]

Seriously, there is no point in obsessing over oil for your Civic. It is in an econobox designed to run on just about anything with lube - it would probably do well with astroglide even. The tiny little fourpot doesn't see temperatures like a big V8 or a turbo/supercharged motor. As long as its not using oil right now, then it really doesn't matter what you use as long as you stick to an appropriate oil change interval.

But I know this is falling on deaf ears.

 

[CraigRT]

Wow, lots of replies. Thanks for all the info everyone.

I forgot to mention that I sometimes need to start my car in -35C weather here in Canada, so I figure that synthetic will be of some use to me. I also drive my Civic quite hard, and I'll bet it makes a difference on a hot summer day when I redline it.

I couldn't really figure out that oilguys website. It looks interesting though and I'm going to give it a better read later today.

Thanks again everyone for your input.

Check the PCMO section and the Used Oil Analysis - Gasoline section.
They also have a way better search than they used to so you can search for specific information on your car.

I recommend the site totally... It's basically the reason I do the maintenance I do on my cars. (Seeing proof that it works, etc)

 

[DivideBYZero]

I would also add to the short list engines that require it from the manufacturer (ie. the BMW M5/M6 S85 V10, which calls for Castrol TWS 10w-60 synthetic). It's not worth the hassle of arguing with the manufacturer on a $40k engine to save a few bucks per oil change, especially when the manufacturer seems to love to void warranties.

Yep, my engine (S54) requires the same Castrol TWS Synthetic, and that's all it gets.

 

[PricklyPete]

For a cheap econo car, whatever is on sale dyno juice with normal change cycles is what I've done. I changed that when I bought my Tacoma new and started using Mobil 1 Syn and have kept that up.

For my wife's A4, it will be changed with the OEM spec oil at the dealership during the service contract (through 45K). After that, I'll continue to use OEM spec oil.

Same with the M3. It has very specific oil requirements that involved a 10W-60 oil from Castrol that was created for the various M engines. I've been told it is to support the very high rev ranges the engine is capable of. I'm not going to short cut on that one...so I'll stick with ordering that specific oil.

 

[BassBomb]

i remember i went overdue on an oilchange in my 2002 civic for like MONTHS and i kept driving in -20 weather during a really cold winter... when i got around to changing the oil it was still chugging away like it should

i am more careful on my current car though, i didn't see much difference going to synthetic, so ill probably just go back to regular and change more often (using the cars computer to do the changes was a little long)

 

[desy]

I use synthetic because I change oil once a year and put typical yearly miles on, and also go down to super cold in the winter IE my Versa has 60k miles on it and its had 3 oil changes

 

[vshah]

i put royal purple in mine whenever the maintenance minder tells me to. i tried mobil 1 for a couple fills, but i would lose ~1cm on the stick after a few thousand miles. with RP, i'm still at the top hole when I change it.

 

[BW86]

German Castrol 0w30

an actual true synthetic

 

[CraigRT]

German Castrol 0w30

an actual true synthetic

It is not the only one.
But it is a great oil. Excellent choice in a Nissan VQ.

 

[zerocool84]

I use Mobile 1. It's what came from the factory and it's what I use. I can get it at Costco also.

 

[CraigRT]

I use Mobile 1. It's what came from the factory and it's what I use. I can get it at Costco also.

You've got an SRT-4?
M1 0w40 is a great oil for that engine. I wouldn't use any other M1 in it honestly. Except maybe M1 HM 10w30.

 

[thescreensavers]

Although i agree that the German Castrol is pretty good, i don't think M1 is horrible for the VQ across the board.

I

Yes, compared to other oils, its horrible across the board, there is a huge thread over at my350z about M1 being beaten out by cheaper oils. The new formulation does not do so well in the VQ. Sure you can run it and change it thats what really matters but if you are looking for the best of good oil, I would never point to M1 after seeing how bad it performs.

Edit: here is the thread I talked about http://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-...-1-oil-users-motor-oil-discussion-thread.html

 

[Howard]

Is Mobil 1 synthetic sold in Canada still the old formulation or is it the same stuff as in the states?