who is wrenching today?

[Yuriman]

Closer up of my 3d-printed mirror blanks:

 

[WiseUp216]

New shoes today -

 

[WhoBeDaPlaya]

New radiator - f*cking plastic side tanks sprouted cracks and are letting air into the system (--> overheat despite hardly any coolant loss).
Going to be a PITA to install.

 

[jlee]

Not much wrenching, but I replaced brake and license plate lights on my Mazda last night and the front window belt moldings on the Lexus. I have to do the rear belt moldings as well, replace the hydraulic hood struts, and install engine splash guards (mine were missing) - I have new beefy ones from Rad Rubber Design.

 

[RLGL]

Are you ready for this?
Troubleshoot self cleaning oven circuit in a Dacor dual fuel dual oven range.

 

[herm0016]

Are you ready for this?
Troubleshoot self cleaning oven circuit in a Dacor dual fuel dual oven range.

I have a decor, what's up? I had to replace the lower element, the difference in resistance was messing up the control circuit.

 

[Zivic]

I put a billman TCT (time chain tensioner) in my honda S2000. I also installed my extended studs on the front of my 350z after only having them sitting around for 3+ yrs.

This week should be fun for me. finish up putting the new top on the S2000. Having a mechanic over tomorrow to replace the AP1 valve retainers with AP2, and then I have a full HKS exhaust setup going in the car. Header is getting ceramic coated over the next couple days.

After that, I have to make up some fuel lines and get my fuellab adjustable FPR in my Z car.... that's in addition to finally replacing my HKS Fcon Vpro with a Haltech EMS, eliminating my need to drive 430 miles for a tune. and for the cherry on top a new set of ID 1050X injectors, then off to the tuner and, fingers crossed, get me a clean tune @ 16 psi of boost

Then my attention will turn to my evo, clean up the battery relocation with a new fused distribution block, and installing an inline fuel filter.

 

[RLGL]

I have a decor, what's up? I had to replace the lower element, the difference in resistance was messing up the control circuit.

The main oven does not run the cleaning cycle. There is a latch mechanism for each oven. Each has two switches.
Each switch has a NC and NO They are wired so as to prevent the clean cycle from running on both ovens at the same time. The switches on the main oven are caked with grease. I also found a wiring error on the schematic. The latching mechanism has been re-designed. The error message on the display can result from switch issues or an issue with the board. One distinct possibility is grease coating on the contacts is preventing the circuit from functioning even though There is continuity through the contacts. At any rate I am replacing both switches for openers. Fingers crossed the board is still good. Having the board repaired is the only option, it is out of production meaning the ovens will not be usable for 8 to 10 days. Total cost for switches and board repair is about 500. The switches are 250 and in scarce supply.

 

[NutBucket]

Are they truly specialty switches? I bet you could find something close at Digikey/Mouser. The hard part is digging through the thousands of options. I would be surprised if they actually had a custom switch made.

 

[jlee]

Installed the splash guards - the OEM ones were gone, with little chunks of incredibly brittle shielding remaining under the body clips.

It's much better now.

I noticed that my upper ball joint boots are torn and I have a split steering rack boot. I have new upper control arms with ball joints already, so it'll all likely get fixed whenever I decide to replace the suspension.

 

[RLGL]

Are they truly specialty switches? I bet you could find something close at Digikey/Mouser. The hard part is digging through the thousands of options. I would be surprised if they actually had a custom switch made.

In the past I have dealt with Digikey, they are a short distance north of me.

I am not sure of the differences in the design changes. Hopefully the new design has sealed switches. The original switches are easily available but will have the same issue over time. I will post back when I see the design changes. Who knows, I may send the latch assemblies back and buy replacement switches. More later this week.

 

[WhiteNoise]

I didn't take pictures but I installed 3 lap belts into my 65 Ford F100. Now people can feel a little safer riding in my truck.

 

[slag]

Last weekend I put a new upper intake manifold on the 2000 maxima. Took me a few hours but I'm slow. I also put rust converter on the underside of my 4 runner and found out I need to reinforce the frame in a few places with some plate steel and my welder. Yes, there is some frame rust on the innner side of my boxed frame. I'll need to remove the muffler and gas tank, grind down the metal, and then weld on the plates.

My son and I also replaced the neutral safety switch on his audi.. that was a major pita to get to , but we got it done.

 

[jlee]

LED interior lights installed in the GX - thought about installing the Grom bluetooth adapter but it's a bit late to start another project.

 

[dave_the_nerd]

Not wrenching, really, but I'm going to take a crack at installing a cabin air filter in my '07 Focus tomorrow.

There's supposedly accommodation for them, and it should be a piece of cake, but they shipped without them installed to save money. Some people apparently have to mod theirs a little bit to get them fitting right.

It's under a plastic cover that, according to what I've read, can crack and will allow rain to pool in the vents if it's broken. I'm kinda hoping it is leaking - it would explain some odors and moisture issues I've been having.

 

[RLGL]

The main oven does not run the cleaning cycle. There is a latch mechanism for each oven. Each has two switches.
Each switch has a NC and NO They are wired so as to prevent the clean cycle from running on both ovens at the same time. The switches on the main oven are caked with grease. I also found a wiring error on the schematic. The latching mechanism has been re-designed. The error message on the display can result from switch issues or an issue with the board. One distinct possibility is grease coating on the contacts is preventing the circuit from functioning even though There is continuity through the contacts. At any rate I am replacing both switches for openers. Fingers crossed the board is still good. Having the board repaired is the only option, it is out of production meaning the ovens will not be usable for 8 to 10 days. Total cost for switches and board repair is about 500. The switches are 250 and in scarce supply.

Well I got the switches and a schematic for a rewire job for the small oven switch. Basically all they changed was the no's to the nc"s. This was to accommodate the redesign of the switch configuration.
As I suspected the current flow was not as it should have been across 1 switch. This is even after I flushed the switch with electric motor parts cleaner.

After replacing the latch switch assemblies and a minor rewire and extending 1 wire I am please to announce the repair is successful and the oven is clean once again.

 

[RearAdmiral]

Spent a couple days over the last 2 weeks changing this release bearing with my dad on my 2011 subaru legacy. This thing started to seize up in the middle of jersey city, completely unfamiliar territory while also being stop and go traffic.

 

[jlee]

Before:

After:

Still need to heat shrink it, but the bulk of the fix is complete.

 

[PClark99]

Yesterday I finally did the cat back on my wrx. 2 hrs start to finish it wasn't that hard to do.

 

[local]

I took over our 2000 F-250 as my daily driver in January. Since then I have done the following:

Replaced tires. BFGoodrich T/A KO2 265/75/16
Washed truck, this is on here because it is the first and only time I have washed it in 5 years.
Replaced sway bar end links. Moog Poly Ends
Replaced bad front wheel hubs, this one is embarrassing since it was bad for the last 5 years and I thought it was a warped rotor as it only shook when braking.
Replaced brake pads and rotors.
Installed ISSPRO EGT, Boost and Trans Temp gauges.
Modified stock air intake assembly to do the 6637 filter mod.
Disconnected wastegate actuator, it is still spring operated to prevent overboost but no longer starts opening at 5 psi.
Replaced stock exhaust with MBRP 4" turbo-back exhaust. With muffler as I am not a fan of retarded loud diesel exhaust.

On my to do list:
Install 6 position tuner chip.
Upgrade turbo compressor wheel.
Glue parts that fell off the truck when I washed it back on.
Maybe wash it again.

The stuff I have done already has made a big difference in general responsiveness. I need this truck to last until 2020 at least so I won't do too many performance upgrades but I just couldn't stand to drive it how it was.

 

[jlee]

Added dual wall adhesive lined heat shrink to the work I did the other day:

I may replace the positive terminal, too. It's in much better shape than the negative was, but still not wonderful.

 

[iwajabitw]

2007 F150. Replaced front and rear shocks with KYBs. installed new Moog lower ball joints and upper control arms. Noticed Ill probably need breaks mid summer so I'm pricing some drilled and slotted rotors and pads online.

 

[jlee]

2007 F150. Replaced front and rear shocks with KYBs. installed new Moog lower ball joints and upper control arms. Noticed Ill probably need breaks mid summer so I'm pricing some drilled and slotted rotors and pads online.

I wouldn't get drilled rotors (google 'cracked drilled rotors'). Slotted is OK but really no reason to not just get blanks (unless you want the look).

 

[iwajabitw]

I wouldn't get drilled rotors (google 'cracked drilled rotors'). Slotted is OK but really no reason to not just get blanks (unless you want the look).

Yeah its mostly the look and too keep ceramic pads from warping them. I am not a fan of ceramic, except its low dust qualities, I have warped too many rotors on other vehicles using them, and I am not heavy footed when stopping. The F150 is my daily driver,165K miles, with some interstate time back and forth so I wanted to upgrade from stock as well as have them look good through the aftermarket chrome wheels. I think I may get the Powerstop Z23 K1939 Kit. $335 for the whole kit including pads, which isn't bad considering I paid $190 per rotor about 5 yrs ago.

 

[jlee]

Yeah its mostly the look and too keep ceramic pads from warping them. I am not a fan of ceramic, except its low dust qualities, I have warped too many rotors on other vehicles using them, and I am not heavy footed when stopping. The F150 is my daily driver,165K miles, with some interstate time back and forth so I wanted to upgrade from stock as well as have them look good through the aftermarket chrome wheels. I think I may get the Powerstop Z23 K1939 Kit. $335 for the whole kit including pads, which isn't bad considering I paid $190 per rotor about 5 yrs ago.

Today I learned that some F150's have the hub assembly pressed into the rotor.

That's bizarre....