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Which brand of synthetic oil?

Ultima

Platinum Member
Which brand does the best job of protecting your engine from wear? I've read all the hype but I want real answers 🙂

 
I was wondering, is there any benefit of a synthetic blend over straight dino oil?

I just changed the oil in my civic and as I was adding the oil, I noticed it said synthetic blend. I didn't even realize it, I thought it was plain old oil. I only bought it because it was the only 5W20 Walmart had in stock.

Suppose any demons will pop up since I used Motorcraft (Ford) oil in my Honda? 🙂
 
Amsoil is awesome. I'm going to run it in my car here shortly, supposedly good for 20,000+ miles? We use amsoil in our rearend and the tranny in our dragster and it helps everything run better and cooler. We don't use amsoil in the motor though because we change oil like every other weekend due to us running an alcohol setup.
 
AMSOil made my TL1000R shift like crap - huge difference over Mobil 1. I'm going back to Mobil at my next oil change and never looking back. I don't care about the studies that say AMSOil protects better - it sure doesn't do crap for easy shifting on my bike.



EDIT: By crap, I mean really "notchy" and "clickey" as opposed to smooth and "soft" with the Mobil. I noticed the difference immediately. Booo.
 
Originally posted by: Carbonyl
I use shell Rotella every 20K.

The company I was working for used a synthetic blend and changed at 55,000 miles....:Q

This subject has been beat to death...The search function is very useful.
rolleye.gif
 
Originally posted by: Tominator
Originally posted by: Carbonyl
I use shell Rotella every 20K.

The company I was working for used a synthetic blend and changed at 55,000 miles....:Q

This subject has been beat to death...The search function is very useful.
rolleye.gif

Its also occasionally good to give a dead horse an extra kick every so often, just to make sure it stays dead. 😉
 
Originally posted by: BillGates
AMSOil made my TL1000R shift like crap - huge difference over Mobil 1. I'm going back to Mobil at my next oil change and never looking back. I don't care about the studies that say AMSOil protects better - it sure doesn't do crap for easy shifting on my bike.



EDIT: By crap, I mean really "notchy" and "clickey" as opposed to smooth and "soft" with the Mobil. I noticed the difference immediately. Booo.

It made a difference when you shift? oh my, you poured that oil in the wrong place...
 
Actually, it does not really matter, it really doesn't because you will change your oil before it wears out anyways...

But DO NOT put synthetic oil in when pouring out non-synthetic oil, you will end up with a grey mess and if you are unlucky, your engine could very well break down...

It has to do with the cleaning additives that are used in synthetic oil but not in semi-oil...
 
But DO NOT put synthetic oil in when pouring out non-synthetic oil, you will end up with a grey mess and if you are unlucky, your engine could very well break down...
that's false. i've never heard that.


basically it goes like this: mobil 1, amsoil, redline, royal purple, and probably a couple others are the only 'true' synthetics with esters and PAO.

quaker state, valvoline, pennzoil, walmart, etc. synthetics are just like a really classy dino oil and don't really give you the benefit of true synthetics.

the only benefit of synthetic is possible extended drain intervals, which you should determine using oil analysis. don't just let amsoil go 20k miles without checking up on the condition of the oil. i've seen analysis on amsoil after 10,000 miles looking completely worn out and with high wear. if you idle a lot or don't let your engine get up to temperature all the time, over time the oil will start collecting sediments, water, fuel, etc. that would normally get flushed out with the 3k mile oil changes. that's why analysis is almost mandatory with extended drains so you know you're not screwing yourself over. i got caught up in the whole synthetic oil thing a while ago and realized that if you want the cheapest insurance then just go 3000 miles/ 5000 km with the cheapest SL oil and a decent filter (eg. anything but fram) and you should be set.
 
Originally posted by: Shockwave
Anything but Penzoil. Penzoil is the devil of oil. AVOID AT ALL COSTS. I'd rather pee in my oil the use Penzoil.

pennzoil is one of the highest quality over-the-counter dino oils available. has a very good additive package with a bit of moly.
 
Originally posted by: SnapIT
Originally posted by: BillGates
AMSOil made my TL1000R shift like crap - huge difference over Mobil 1. I'm going back to Mobil at my next oil change and never looking back. I don't care about the studies that say AMSOil protects better - it sure doesn't do crap for easy shifting on my bike.



EDIT: By crap, I mean really "notchy" and "clickey" as opposed to smooth and "soft" with the Mobil. I noticed the difference immediately. Booo.

It made a difference when you shift? oh my, you poured that oil in the wrong place...


No he didn't. His bike has a WET clutch just like my bike and most Jap bikes out there. i.e the engine oil is also the trans fluid (manual)

But use 15W50 mobil 1 in bikes is OK. Just don't use it in a Bike if it has the energy conserving emblem on the back(M1 15W50 does not)
 
I'm a chemist working for an oil additive company (hint: name starts with an E)... we test samples all the time.

Personally, I use Valvoline Maxlife. I tested the oil from my engine once, and found gasoline in it. After using Maxlife, no more gasoline.
seems like Maxlife patched the small leaks that I may have.

As for the best filters, that's another thread. 😀
 
Originally posted by: Shockwave
Anything but Penzoil. Penzoil is the devil of oil. AVOID AT ALL COSTS. I'd rather pee in my oil the use Penzoil.


Penzoil is not bad. The only oil that I have seen cause problems and have also seen test done on that show it breaks down faster than others is Castrol. The polymers castrol uses asbord heat to fast and thicken up to fast and as such have a tendecy to break down sooner and leave a lot of trash in the motor.

The 3 best Non-Syn's I have use and use in my customers cars are...

1. Mobil / Exxon (Same thing now, exxon switched to mobils formula)
2. Valoline
3. Havoline

As for Syn oil DO NOT USE CASTROL SYN as it is not a TRUR SYN, but here are some of my fav's

1. Mobil 1 (I use it in my Bike)
2. Havoline (its the cheapest name brand Syn on the market in my area.)
 
Originally posted by: dbzwukan
I'm a chemist working for an oil additive company (hint: name starts with an E)... we test samples all the time.

Personally, I use Valvoline Maxlife. I tested the oil from my engine once, and found gasoline in it. After using Maxlife, no more gasoline.
seems like Maxlife patched the small leaks that I may have.

As for the best filters, that's another thread. 😀


Best filter STP (autozone) or Tech2000 (walmart)

Worst filter Fram (anywhere, and this includes Bikes)


And be careful using Maxlife and other oils like that as they make the gaskets swell a little and can fill SMALL leaks, but will make the gaskets wear out after a good amount of time. Depends on how much additive they use.
 
Originally posted by: SnapIT
Actually, it does not really matter, it really doesn't because you will change your oil before it wears out anyways...

But DO NOT put synthetic oil in when pouring out non-synthetic oil, you will end up with a grey mess and if you are unlucky, your engine could very well break down...

It has to do with the cleaning additives that are used in synthetic oil but not in semi-oil...



Myth - You can't mix Mobil 1 with conventional oil.

You can't mix Mobil 1 with conventional oil.
Mobil 1 with SuperSyn? is fully compatible with conventional motor oils, semi-synthetic motor oils and other synthetic motor oils should it be necessary to mix them. But the superior performance of Mobil 1 with SuperSyn? will be reduced by diluting it.

MIXING AMSOIL
AMSOIL SAE 20W-50 and SAE 40 Motor Oils are compatible with conventional petroleum and other synthetic motor oils; however, mixing either AMSOIL Motor Oil with a conventional oil will shorten the extended drain period of the AMSOIL Motor Oil.

Shell
Synthetic Shell Oils CAN be Safely Mixed With Non-synthetic Products

"All grades of Shell oils, synthetic and conventional, can be mixed with no compatibility issues," he says.


Why don't people do just a little bit of research before posting such stupid crap as the two oil types cannot be mixed?
 
Originally posted by: Pepsi90919
But DO NOT put synthetic oil in when pouring out non-synthetic oil, you will end up with a grey mess and if you are unlucky, your engine could very well break down...
that's false. i've never heard that.


basically it goes like this: mobil 1, amsoil, redline, royal purple, and probably a couple others are the only 'true' synthetics with esters and PAO.

quaker state, valvoline, pennzoil, walmart, etc. synthetics are just like a really classy dino oil and don't really give you the benefit of true synthetics.

the only benefit of synthetic is possible extended drain intervals, which you should determine using oil analysis. don't just let amsoil go 20k miles without checking up on the condition of the oil. i've seen analysis on amsoil after 10,000 miles looking completely worn out and with high wear. if you idle a lot or don't let your engine get up to temperature all the time, over time the oil will start collecting sediments, water, fuel, etc. that would normally get flushed out with the 3k mile oil changes. that's why analysis is almost mandatory with extended drains so you know you're not screwing yourself over. i got caught up in the whole synthetic oil thing a while ago and realized that if you want the cheapest insurance then just go 3000 miles/ 5000 km with the cheapest SL oil and a decent filter (eg. anything but fram) and you should be set.

Just because you never heard of it does not mean it is false, it is true, and i am speaking of experience...

So shut your trap when you have no clue...
 
Originally posted by: etech
Originally posted by: SnapIT
Actually, it does not really matter, it really doesn't because you will change your oil before it wears out anyways...

But DO NOT put synthetic oil in when pouring out non-synthetic oil, you will end up with a grey mess and if you are unlucky, your engine could very well break down...

It has to do with the cleaning additives that are used in synthetic oil but not in semi-oil...



Myth - You can't mix Mobil 1 with conventional oil.

You can't mix Mobil 1 with conventional oil.
Mobil 1 with SuperSyn? is fully compatible with conventional motor oils, semi-synthetic motor oils and other synthetic motor oils should it be necessary to mix them. But the superior performance of Mobil 1 with SuperSyn? will be reduced by diluting it.

MIXING AMSOIL
AMSOIL SAE 20W-50 and SAE 40 Motor Oils are compatible with conventional petroleum and other synthetic motor oils; however, mixing either AMSOIL Motor Oil with a conventional oil will shorten the extended drain period of the AMSOIL Motor Oil.

Shell
Synthetic Shell Oils CAN be Safely Mixed With Non-synthetic Products

"All grades of Shell oils, synthetic and conventional, can be mixed with no compatibility issues," he says.


Why don't people do just a little bit of research before posting such stupid crap as the two oil types cannot be mixed?

*sighs* i did NOT say you could not MIX it with other oil types, i said you should not use synthetic oil in a car where semi has been used earlier...

But as usual, you read as you please to be able to make remarks, it is sooo like you e-type... and every time you hit another low...
 
Amsoil beats Mobil 1 by a mile, I worked for Mobil for years, thier synthetic base does not rival the quality of Amsoil.

All the other brands have a negative effect on rubber seals.
 
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