Originally posted by: Carbonyl
I use shell Rotella every 20K.
Originally posted by: Tominator
Originally posted by: Carbonyl
I use shell Rotella every 20K.
The company I was working for used a synthetic blend and changed at 55,000 miles....:Q
This subject has been beat to death...The search function is very useful.![]()
Originally posted by: BillGates
AMSOil made my TL1000R shift like crap - huge difference over Mobil 1. I'm going back to Mobil at my next oil change and never looking back. I don't care about the studies that say AMSOil protects better - it sure doesn't do crap for easy shifting on my bike.
EDIT: By crap, I mean really "notchy" and "clickey" as opposed to smooth and "soft" with the Mobil. I noticed the difference immediately. Booo.
that's false. i've never heard that.But DO NOT put synthetic oil in when pouring out non-synthetic oil, you will end up with a grey mess and if you are unlucky, your engine could very well break down...
Originally posted by: Shockwave
Anything but Penzoil. Penzoil is the devil of oil. AVOID AT ALL COSTS. I'd rather pee in my oil the use Penzoil.
Originally posted by: SnapIT
Originally posted by: BillGates
AMSOil made my TL1000R shift like crap - huge difference over Mobil 1. I'm going back to Mobil at my next oil change and never looking back. I don't care about the studies that say AMSOil protects better - it sure doesn't do crap for easy shifting on my bike.
EDIT: By crap, I mean really "notchy" and "clickey" as opposed to smooth and "soft" with the Mobil. I noticed the difference immediately. Booo.
It made a difference when you shift? oh my, you poured that oil in the wrong place...
Originally posted by: Shockwave
Anything but Penzoil. Penzoil is the devil of oil. AVOID AT ALL COSTS. I'd rather pee in my oil the use Penzoil.
Originally posted by: dbzwukan
I'm a chemist working for an oil additive company (hint: name starts with an E)... we test samples all the time.
Personally, I use Valvoline Maxlife. I tested the oil from my engine once, and found gasoline in it. After using Maxlife, no more gasoline.
seems like Maxlife patched the small leaks that I may have.
As for the best filters, that's another thread. 😀
Originally posted by: SnapIT
Actually, it does not really matter, it really doesn't because you will change your oil before it wears out anyways...
But DO NOT put synthetic oil in when pouring out non-synthetic oil, you will end up with a grey mess and if you are unlucky, your engine could very well break down...
It has to do with the cleaning additives that are used in synthetic oil but not in semi-oil...
You can't mix Mobil 1 with conventional oil.
Mobil 1 with SuperSyn? is fully compatible with conventional motor oils, semi-synthetic motor oils and other synthetic motor oils should it be necessary to mix them. But the superior performance of Mobil 1 with SuperSyn? will be reduced by diluting it.
MIXING AMSOIL
AMSOIL SAE 20W-50 and SAE 40 Motor Oils are compatible with conventional petroleum and other synthetic motor oils; however, mixing either AMSOIL Motor Oil with a conventional oil will shorten the extended drain period of the AMSOIL Motor Oil.
Synthetic Shell Oils CAN be Safely Mixed With Non-synthetic Products
"All grades of Shell oils, synthetic and conventional, can be mixed with no compatibility issues," he says.
Originally posted by: Pepsi90919
that's false. i've never heard that.But DO NOT put synthetic oil in when pouring out non-synthetic oil, you will end up with a grey mess and if you are unlucky, your engine could very well break down...
basically it goes like this: mobil 1, amsoil, redline, royal purple, and probably a couple others are the only 'true' synthetics with esters and PAO.
quaker state, valvoline, pennzoil, walmart, etc. synthetics are just like a really classy dino oil and don't really give you the benefit of true synthetics.
the only benefit of synthetic is possible extended drain intervals, which you should determine using oil analysis. don't just let amsoil go 20k miles without checking up on the condition of the oil. i've seen analysis on amsoil after 10,000 miles looking completely worn out and with high wear. if you idle a lot or don't let your engine get up to temperature all the time, over time the oil will start collecting sediments, water, fuel, etc. that would normally get flushed out with the 3k mile oil changes. that's why analysis is almost mandatory with extended drains so you know you're not screwing yourself over. i got caught up in the whole synthetic oil thing a while ago and realized that if you want the cheapest insurance then just go 3000 miles/ 5000 km with the cheapest SL oil and a decent filter (eg. anything but fram) and you should be set.
Originally posted by: etech
Originally posted by: SnapIT
Actually, it does not really matter, it really doesn't because you will change your oil before it wears out anyways...
But DO NOT put synthetic oil in when pouring out non-synthetic oil, you will end up with a grey mess and if you are unlucky, your engine could very well break down...
It has to do with the cleaning additives that are used in synthetic oil but not in semi-oil...
Myth - You can't mix Mobil 1 with conventional oil.
You can't mix Mobil 1 with conventional oil.
Mobil 1 with SuperSyn? is fully compatible with conventional motor oils, semi-synthetic motor oils and other synthetic motor oils should it be necessary to mix them. But the superior performance of Mobil 1 with SuperSyn? will be reduced by diluting it.
MIXING AMSOIL
AMSOIL SAE 20W-50 and SAE 40 Motor Oils are compatible with conventional petroleum and other synthetic motor oils; however, mixing either AMSOIL Motor Oil with a conventional oil will shorten the extended drain period of the AMSOIL Motor Oil.
Shell
Synthetic Shell Oils CAN be Safely Mixed With Non-synthetic Products
"All grades of Shell oils, synthetic and conventional, can be mixed with no compatibility issues," he says.
Why don't people do just a little bit of research before posting such stupid crap as the two oil types cannot be mixed?