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Which Boost Controller!?!?

R

RGUN

Golden Member
Anyone have any experience with boost controllers?

I have no idea what differentiates one type from another.

So far here are my options

Manual boost controller - ~$100
Greddy Profec B Electronic boost controller - $340
Greddy Profec E-01 Electronic Boost Controller - $500

Suggestions welcome!

Thanks guys
 
$100 for a manual boost controller bleh. Mine was $15. Here you go. Mine is setup the simple first way and if you scroll down it tells you how to make it. There are many of variations some better and some worse. They are all pretty much the same crap though. Just a ball and spring check valve.
 
Originally posted by: Colt45
There's already a boost controller under your foot... I don't see the point.
Click to expand...

The point is to increase the max boost pressure over stock or just to make the turbo spool up much faster. Some cars have it setup so the boost come in slow so the car doesn't feel like you hit a nitrous button when the turbo spools up. With a boost controller the boost just comes on BAM!!!! Can't do that with the gas pedal.
 
Mucking about with bleed valves, etc is a sure fire way to detonation and a melted piston if you go too far without fueling mods.
 
Originally posted by: nismotigerwvu
Can we get some info as to what its going on, your goals, other mods....ect ect
Click to expand...

2007 STI

Intake, ECU, Downpipe, Catback, Lightweight Pulley, Walbro 255 LPH Fuel Pump

The place tuning my ECU asked that I get a boost controller. The stock boost controller cannot reliably exceed 16.5psi and we plan to go to 20psi. The manual boost controllers are not as accurate, so thats why I would go with an electronic version.

 
If you absolutely must have one, get the Apex'i AVC-R. It's seriously one of the best. I've had the Profec B and the E-01 and the AVC-R is much better.
 
Originally posted by: RGUN
Originally posted by: nismotigerwvu
Can we get some info as to what its going on, your goals, other mods....ect ect
Click to expand...

2007 STI

Intake, ECU, Downpipe, Catback, Lightweight Pulley, Walbro 255 LPH Fuel Pump

The place tuning my ECU asked that I get a boost controller. The stock boost controller cannot reliably exceed 16.5psi and we plan to go to 20psi. The manual boost controllers are not as accurate, so thats why I would go with an electronic version.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't say they aren't as accurate. My $15 one once it is set has always gave me the exact same boost level with a tiny half pound spike. The big advantage of the electronic ones are ease of adjustment and they usually allow you to have more control over the boost, adjust how fast boost comes on slower/smoother, less boost in different gears, street/strip settings, they can compensate to eliminate spikes, they look cooler, etc. If you can afford a 07 STI you can probably swing the bucks for an electronic boost controller.
 
I really like the Blitz SBC boost controllers. From the ones I've played with (HKS, Trust/Greddy, Apexi), Blitz built boost the fastest without overshooting (keep boost away from diaphragm), and kept the set boost the best without creep.

If you're upgrading to a good external wastegate and don't care about boost creep, it probably doesn't matter as much which controller you choose.
 
What engine management are you going to be running? There's no need for an external controller; that's what the ECU tuning is for. Sounds to me like you need a Suby tuner, not some generic one. Most everyone in the Suby community doesn't bother with any sort of piggyback boost controller. Most people just get a Prodrive 3-port boost solenoid mated to the proper tune. Generally speaking, you don't want to mess with a manual controller. A friend of mine is hitting more than 24 psi with that setup (he's running a Cobb Accessport with a custom tune and appropriately large turbo).

20 psi on a stock STi turbo is not really worthwhile as I believe the turbo really loses efficiency at higher levels of boost. Typically you'll want to stick to 19 or so.

Go do some reading on NASIOC before you start working yourself into a hole.
 
Originally posted by: NutBucket
What engine management are you going to be running? There's no need for an external controller; that's what the ECU tuning is for. Sounds to me like you need a Suby tuner, not some generic one. Most everyone in the Suby community doesn't bother with any sort of piggyback boost controller. Most people just get a Prodrive 3-port boost solenoid mated to the proper tune. Generally speaking, you don't want to mess with a manual controller. A friend of mine is hitting more than 24 psi with that setup (he's running a Cobb Accessport with a custom tune and appropriately large turbo).

20 psi on a stock STi turbo is not really worthwhile as I believe the turbo really loses efficiency at higher levels of boost. Typically you'll want to stick to 19 or so.

Go do some reading on NASIOC before you start working yourself into a hole.
Click to expand...

Protune for an Access Port - the tuner is a subaru specialist, and I am going a long way to get to them. I think Im going to go with a manual boost controller, he said they build boost faster.

 
Originally posted by: NutBucket
What engine management are you going to be running? There's no need for an external controller; that's what the ECU tuning is for. Sounds to me like you need a Suby tuner, not some generic one. Most everyone in the Suby community doesn't bother with any sort of piggyback boost controller. Most people just get a Prodrive 3-port boost solenoid mated to the proper tune. Generally speaking, you don't want to mess with a manual controller. A friend of mine is hitting more than 24 psi with that setup (he's running a Cobb Accessport with a custom tune and appropriately large turbo).

20 psi on a stock STi turbo is not really worthwhile as I believe the turbo really loses efficiency at higher levels of boost. Typically you'll want to stick to 19 or so.

Go do some reading on NASIOC before you start working yourself into a hole.
Click to expand...

:thumbsup:

This is how we did it at the SIDC, UK. Re-map always wins over BC due to fueling and the 'melty' third piston. Bigger hybrid turbos and uprated injectors should be used on highly tuned examples. The stock puffers, as you say, are stretched at high boost.

The solonoid thing used to be something you'd do on early (94-98) models, but wasn't so critical on later UK models as it was revised.

(I still miss my GF wagon)
 
Originally posted by: RGUN
Originally posted by: NutBucket
What engine management are you going to be running? There's no need for an external controller; that's what the ECU tuning is for. Sounds to me like you need a Suby tuner, not some generic one. Most everyone in the Suby community doesn't bother with any sort of piggyback boost controller. Most people just get a Prodrive 3-port boost solenoid mated to the proper tune. Generally speaking, you don't want to mess with a manual controller. A friend of mine is hitting more than 24 psi with that setup (he's running a Cobb Accessport with a custom tune and appropriately large turbo).

20 psi on a stock STi turbo is not really worthwhile as I believe the turbo really loses efficiency at higher levels of boost. Typically you'll want to stick to 19 or so.

Go do some reading on NASIOC before you start working yourself into a hole.
Click to expand...

Protune for an Access Port - the tuner is a subaru specialist, and I am going a long way to get to them. I think Im going to go with a manual boost controller, he said they build boost faster.
Click to expand...

What tuner are you going to?

http://i16.photobucket.com/alb...badazzcr/07limited.jpg

Thats what you can get with 19psi tapered to 15psi closer to redline, and thats without mods.

So no, you do not need a boost controller.

When you go all out heres what you might can expect

http://forums.nasioc.com/forum...8167&highlight=limited
 
Originally posted by: NutBucket
What engine management are you going to be running? There's no need for an external controller; that's what the ECU tuning is for. Sounds to me like you need a Suby tuner, not some generic one. Most everyone in the Suby community doesn't bother with any sort of piggyback boost controller. Most people just get a Prodrive 3-port boost solenoid mated to the proper tune. Generally speaking, you don't want to mess with a manual controller. A friend of mine is hitting more than 24 psi with that setup (he's running a Cobb Accessport with a custom tune and appropriately large turbo).

20 psi on a stock STi turbo is not really worthwhile as I believe the turbo really loses efficiency at higher levels of boost. Typically you'll want to stick to 19 or so.

Go do some reading on NASIOC before you start working yourself into a hole.
Click to expand...

I've never seen anything good come out of piggybacks. I had one on my Miata and HATED it.
 
Originally posted by: DEMO24
Originally posted by: RGUN
Originally posted by: NutBucket
What engine management are you going to be running? There's no need for an external controller; that's what the ECU tuning is for. Sounds to me like you need a Suby tuner, not some generic one. Most everyone in the Suby community doesn't bother with any sort of piggyback boost controller. Most people just get a Prodrive 3-port boost solenoid mated to the proper tune. Generally speaking, you don't want to mess with a manual controller. A friend of mine is hitting more than 24 psi with that setup (he's running a Cobb Accessport with a custom tune and appropriately large turbo).

20 psi on a stock STi turbo is not really worthwhile as I believe the turbo really loses efficiency at higher levels of boost. Typically you'll want to stick to 19 or so.

Go do some reading on NASIOC before you start working yourself into a hole.
Click to expand...

Protune for an Access Port - the tuner is a subaru specialist, and I am going a long way to get to them. I think Im going to go with a manual boost controller, he said they build boost faster.
Click to expand...

What tuner are you going to?

http://i16.photobucket.com/alb...badazzcr/07limited.jpg

Thats what you can get with 19psi tapered to 15psi closer to redline, and thats without mods.

So no, you do not need a boost controller.

When you go all out heres what you might can expect

http://forums.nasioc.com/forum...8167&highlight=limited
Click to expand...

Innovative Tuning is going to be doing the work. So those are your numbers with ONLY increased boost? what does without other mods mean?

 
no, not my numbers unfortunately. Just a car that was tuned locally and yes the car was stock and simply got a tune.
 
RGUN, if you have already modified your intake and exhaust you simply HAVE to get a re-map to release the potential and have the car running right/best. The stock Scooby ECU is re-mappable out of the factory without the need for piggybacks.
 
Originally posted by: DivideBYZero
RGUN, if you have already modified your intake and exhaust you simply HAVE to get a re-map to release the potential and have the car running right/best. The stock Scooby ECU is re-mappable out of the factory without the need for piggybacks.
Click to expand...


The intake is still in transit. The exhaust is a cobb performance unit. I plan to get it professionally tuned as soon as the intake and fuel pump come in. I took it for a few pulls today and Im not hitting target boost. 4th gear only builds 15.5 psi. I dont know if Ive introduced a leak from pulling off the intercooler or if the restrictor pill is messing it up. Either way, Im going to have the tuner look at it. I dont have a piggy back and dont plan on getting one. Im getting the ECU tuned via an Accessport (Cobb component).
 
Originally posted by: RGUN
Originally posted by: DivideBYZero
RGUN, if you have already modified your intake and exhaust you simply HAVE to get a re-map to release the potential and have the car running right/best. The stock Scooby ECU is re-mappable out of the factory without the need for piggybacks.
Click to expand...


The intake is still in transit. The exhaust is a cobb performance unit. I plan to get it professionally tuned as soon as the intake and fuel pump come in. I took it for a few pulls today and Im not hitting target boost. 4th gear only builds 15.5 psi. I dont know if Ive introduced a leak from pulling off the intercooler or if the restrictor pill is messing it up. Either way, Im going to have the tuner look at it. I dont have a piggy back and dont plan on getting one. Im getting the ECU tuned via an Accessport (Cobb component).
Click to expand...

Well the ECU is still going to hit overboost at a set level and dump it to waste. When giving it beans did you ever get the sensation that you hit the brake pedal really hard for 0.1 of a second?
 
Originally posted by: DivideBYZero
Originally posted by: RGUN
Originally posted by: DivideBYZero
RGUN, if you have already modified your intake and exhaust you simply HAVE to get a re-map to release the potential and have the car running right/best. The stock Scooby ECU is re-mappable out of the factory without the need for piggybacks.
Click to expand...


The intake is still in transit. The exhaust is a cobb performance unit. I plan to get it professionally tuned as soon as the intake and fuel pump come in. I took it for a few pulls today and Im not hitting target boost. 4th gear only builds 15.5 psi. I dont know if Ive introduced a leak from pulling off the intercooler or if the restrictor pill is messing it up. Either way, Im going to have the tuner look at it. I dont have a piggy back and dont plan on getting one. Im getting the ECU tuned via an Accessport (Cobb component).
Click to expand...

Well the ECU is still going to hit overboost at a set level and dump it to waste. When giving it beans did you ever get the sensation that you hit the brake pedal really hard for 0.1 of a second?
Click to expand...


The stage 2 flash changes the overboost level to 20psi and if it hits overboost apparently it ignites the CEL, so Im not getting that. I have a boost gauge and its not showing near 20... so Im thinking I either have a leak or the pill is stopping me from building boost.
 
Originally posted by: DivideBYZero
I used to catch overboost in the cold (-2c) at WoT. It didn't throw a CEL on me.
Click to expand...

Either way this 16psi stuff sucks... I need to figure out if its the computer pulling it back to 16 or if its a boost leak before I take it to get tuned.
 
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