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Where Are The Gigabyte GA-X38-DQ6 Motherboards?
Page 11 - Seeking answers? Join the AnandTech community: where nearly half-a-million members share solutions and discuss the latest tech.
Salamandar
Member
I have the ThermalTake Shark Case.......I would like to put an 80mm fan over the RAM to cool them down!
Hi all!
First off, hello! I'm new on this forum and also sorta new to computer building, so please do go easy on me 🙂
I got myself a GA-X38-DQ6 about a week ago, along with an intel e6850, and I've basically been trying to get it to work since then. At first all it did was reboot and reboot and reboot, much like it did for TheBeagle I think. I checked some forums and gathered that the mobo didn't give my PM enough power (it wanted 2.1V but only got 1.8V). So I bought some new RAM, simply so the computer could boot and I could access BIOS to change the voltage to 2.1 and the settings to 4-4-4-12. Now the computer boots "all the way" so to speak 😛 It gets to the desktop, but after a while it reboots again.
We've ruled out all the other components, and we've tried in safe mode. Still reboots, but it takes a little longer. Prolly isn't a software problem, is the point.
Soo.. um.. Anyone know anything that can help me? Is there a "fix" button on the keyboard? 😛 Or is it just that this particular board was dropped as a child and doesn't like the world anymore.
Oh yes, I also tried resetting the CMOS (the screwdriver-to-pins thingy).
Pretty please help me? I would be ever so grateful!
First off, hello! I'm new on this forum and also sorta new to computer building, so please do go easy on me 🙂
I got myself a GA-X38-DQ6 about a week ago, along with an intel e6850, and I've basically been trying to get it to work since then. At first all it did was reboot and reboot and reboot, much like it did for TheBeagle I think. I checked some forums and gathered that the mobo didn't give my PM enough power (it wanted 2.1V but only got 1.8V). So I bought some new RAM, simply so the computer could boot and I could access BIOS to change the voltage to 2.1 and the settings to 4-4-4-12. Now the computer boots "all the way" so to speak 😛 It gets to the desktop, but after a while it reboots again.
We've ruled out all the other components, and we've tried in safe mode. Still reboots, but it takes a little longer. Prolly isn't a software problem, is the point.
Soo.. um.. Anyone know anything that can help me? Is there a "fix" button on the keyboard? 😛 Or is it just that this particular board was dropped as a child and doesn't like the world anymore.
Oh yes, I also tried resetting the CMOS (the screwdriver-to-pins thingy).
Pretty please help me? I would be ever so grateful!
Hi,
Just joined the Anandtech forum to see if the I can get some help for setting up my new GA-X38-DQ Motherboard. Using an E6850 CPU and 4x1GB Crucial Ballistix PC8500. I can't get the 4gb of memory to work at 1066MHz using stock settings. I've tried raising some voltages but it didn't work. The memory runs fine if I slow it down to 800MHz. Searching around, I see that others are having similar problems. Anyone know if this is a motherboard problem or a memory problem?
In the Anandtech Holiday Buyers guide I see that the GA-X38-DQ6 is listed and there's a reference to an F7C Bios. I'm using F6b and was hoping that a Bios up-date might solve the problem. F6b is the latest listed on the Gigabyte website. Does anyone know if the F7C bios is available elsewhere?
Thanks
Just joined the Anandtech forum to see if the I can get some help for setting up my new GA-X38-DQ Motherboard. Using an E6850 CPU and 4x1GB Crucial Ballistix PC8500. I can't get the 4gb of memory to work at 1066MHz using stock settings. I've tried raising some voltages but it didn't work. The memory runs fine if I slow it down to 800MHz. Searching around, I see that others are having similar problems. Anyone know if this is a motherboard problem or a memory problem?
In the Anandtech Holiday Buyers guide I see that the GA-X38-DQ6 is listed and there's a reference to an F7C Bios. I'm using F6b and was hoping that a Bios up-date might solve the problem. F6b is the latest listed on the Gigabyte website. Does anyone know if the F7C bios is available elsewhere?
Thanks
This is just a shot in the dark, but I recently wrote to a guy that had a reboot issue with his P35-DQ6. It kept rebooting over and over. Is this the problem you have? He found that he had the reset switch wires backwards. At least that is what he thinks was causing the problem. He discovered it when he removed the board and put it back in. After he put the mobo back in and had the wires connected correctly it worked fine. Just for kicks, check your case wires to the mobo.
Salamandar
Member
You have to set your RAM speed manually to get run at FSB 1066, that is what I did with my kingstons...........
Thanks, Salamandar.
"You have to set your RAM speed manually to get run at FSB 1066, that is what I did with my kingstons........... "
I have tried setting 1066 manually and setting the timings to 5-5-5-15 and 5-5-5-18 manually with extra voltage but still no luck. Will keep trying though.
"You have to set your RAM speed manually to get run at FSB 1066, that is what I did with my kingstons........... "
I have tried setting 1066 manually and setting the timings to 5-5-5-15 and 5-5-5-18 manually with extra voltage but still no luck. Will keep trying though.
@Ozoneman
Corsair 520W. I also tried with my sister's Corsair 620W, same result.
Corsair TWIN2X 6400C4 DDR2, 2048MB CL4 are the originals.
I used Corsair Value S. DDR2 1024MB PC2-5300 667MHz CL5 (Kit of 2) in order to boot and change the voltage so I could use them both together.
Corsair 520W. I also tried with my sister's Corsair 620W, same result.
Corsair TWIN2X 6400C4 DDR2, 2048MB CL4 are the originals.
I used Corsair Value S. DDR2 1024MB PC2-5300 667MHz CL5 (Kit of 2) in order to boot and change the voltage so I could use them both together.
Memtest will test your memory to make sure it is OK.
I made up a bootable iso CD. I boot the system up with it in the DVD drive and it runs the tests. You need to let it run all the tests for at least 3 loops. If you don't get any errors, then your memory is OK. Start off with just the 2 TWIN2X sticks in the PC.
http://www.memtest.org/
I made up a bootable iso CD. I boot the system up with it in the DVD drive and it runs the tests. You need to let it run all the tests for at least 3 loops. If you don't get any errors, then your memory is OK. Start off with just the 2 TWIN2X sticks in the PC.
http://www.memtest.org/
Did you mess with any of the settings in the bios? What bios are you using? Did you remember to select "Load Optimized Defaults" when you first started or updated your bios? After you load optimized defaults, you will need to reset your memory voltage and timings. But you shouldn't need that value ram to get in to the bios.
Salamandar
Member
I heard that there is a newer BIOS than the F6B, has any one got his hand on it ???
TheBeagle
Senior member
Good Morning Mr. Sal & Everyone.
Sorry I haven't posted in a while, but the Thanksgiving holiday was a computer rebuild nightmare. No less than three of my friend's computers and two of mine hit the dirt and had to be rebuilt/refurbished in one form or another.
Anyway, YES, I had an opportunity to try a F7x BIOS version, but it didn't work very well. For one thing, it caused the CPU fan to run at full speed, no matter what CMOS settings were employed. That meant that my Zalman 9700, which usually runs about 1600 RPM, was clocking at 2700+ no matter what! Obviously, that was UNACCEPTABLE!!, so I reverted back to the F6b build. The Gigabyte techie folks need to get working on that newest BIOS revision some more in their little workshops before they let loose one of those half-baked revisions again!
I still have NOT gotten the "Teaming" function to work correctly. Teaming is NOT Bridging the two NICs together. Teaming actually results in a 2GB network pipe that shows up as a 2GB connection in the network STATUS reports. I briefly got teaming to work on my GA-N680SLI-DQ6 board, after nVidia finally released the appropriate Vista 64 drivers in August. However, I had trouble maintaining the network connection, as it would just drop the network connection for no apparent reason (very flaky). But I've since had to RMA that board back to Newegg, so I don't have that item to play with any more. I've tried to implement the "Teaming" utility that comes on the Gigabyte CD-ROM disk that is included with the board, but it never fully installs in Vista 64 (I don't think it was written for Vista or 64 bit implementation). I certainly can implement "Bridging" on the two onboard NICs, but as I said, that's NOT "Teaming."
So, if anyone has a solution to the Teaming issue, I'd like to hear about it. Best regards to everyone. TheBeagle 😀 :beer:
Sorry I haven't posted in a while, but the Thanksgiving holiday was a computer rebuild nightmare. No less than three of my friend's computers and two of mine hit the dirt and had to be rebuilt/refurbished in one form or another.
Anyway, YES, I had an opportunity to try a F7x BIOS version, but it didn't work very well. For one thing, it caused the CPU fan to run at full speed, no matter what CMOS settings were employed. That meant that my Zalman 9700, which usually runs about 1600 RPM, was clocking at 2700+ no matter what! Obviously, that was UNACCEPTABLE!!, so I reverted back to the F6b build. The Gigabyte techie folks need to get working on that newest BIOS revision some more in their little workshops before they let loose one of those half-baked revisions again!
I still have NOT gotten the "Teaming" function to work correctly. Teaming is NOT Bridging the two NICs together. Teaming actually results in a 2GB network pipe that shows up as a 2GB connection in the network STATUS reports. I briefly got teaming to work on my GA-N680SLI-DQ6 board, after nVidia finally released the appropriate Vista 64 drivers in August. However, I had trouble maintaining the network connection, as it would just drop the network connection for no apparent reason (very flaky). But I've since had to RMA that board back to Newegg, so I don't have that item to play with any more. I've tried to implement the "Teaming" utility that comes on the Gigabyte CD-ROM disk that is included with the board, but it never fully installs in Vista 64 (I don't think it was written for Vista or 64 bit implementation). I certainly can implement "Bridging" on the two onboard NICs, but as I said, that's NOT "Teaming."
So, if anyone has a solution to the Teaming issue, I'd like to hear about it. Best regards to everyone. TheBeagle 😀 :beer:
Salamandar
Member
Hello Mr. TheBeagle.......
Do you know a good way to attache an 80MM fan to cool the RAM?
Also, I can't decide which cooler to buy, the thermalTake Big Typhoon VX or the Maxorb?
Do you know a good way to attache an 80MM fan to cool the RAM?
Also, I can't decide which cooler to buy, the thermalTake Big Typhoon VX or the Maxorb?
TheBeagle
Senior member
Good Morning Mr. Sal.
The best memory cooling solution (air) I have found so far is the OCZ unit, Model #OCZTXTCC. However, I have not yet been able to use this unit because the one retaining bracket bumps into the tail end of my 8800GTX card. I'm working on modifying that bracket and then it should fit like a charm. Also, the X38 board already has the 3 pin power source for the NB fan (which it doesn't have), and so there's a ready power source for that fan unit. I'm reasonably sure I can modify the one mounting bracket for the OCZ unit, and then I'll have a very effective memory stick cooling function.
I think that trying to accommodate a 80mm fan in that tight space is going to entail overcoming some serious mounting issues due to the sheer size of that fan. I don't think that it is necessary to have a fan that large in order to accomplish air memory cooling. The two smaller fans on the OCZ unit seem to provide more than sufficient air movement to cause cooling.
As far as a CPU cooler is concerned, I use the Zalman 9700 unit. It has a VERY sturdy mounting system which allows for quite easy mounting/dismounting of the cooler unit. I've used that 9700 cooler on many different units and have always had good results. Of course, there are more exotic air coolers on the market, but I've had good success with the Zalman 9700, so I'm staying with that one.
Hope that bit of info is of some help to you. Best regards. TheBeagle 😀 :beer:
The best memory cooling solution (air) I have found so far is the OCZ unit, Model #OCZTXTCC. However, I have not yet been able to use this unit because the one retaining bracket bumps into the tail end of my 8800GTX card. I'm working on modifying that bracket and then it should fit like a charm. Also, the X38 board already has the 3 pin power source for the NB fan (which it doesn't have), and so there's a ready power source for that fan unit. I'm reasonably sure I can modify the one mounting bracket for the OCZ unit, and then I'll have a very effective memory stick cooling function.
I think that trying to accommodate a 80mm fan in that tight space is going to entail overcoming some serious mounting issues due to the sheer size of that fan. I don't think that it is necessary to have a fan that large in order to accomplish air memory cooling. The two smaller fans on the OCZ unit seem to provide more than sufficient air movement to cause cooling.
As far as a CPU cooler is concerned, I use the Zalman 9700 unit. It has a VERY sturdy mounting system which allows for quite easy mounting/dismounting of the cooler unit. I've used that 9700 cooler on many different units and have always had good results. Of course, there are more exotic air coolers on the market, but I've had good success with the Zalman 9700, so I'm staying with that one.
Hope that bit of info is of some help to you. Best regards. TheBeagle 😀 :beer:
Hello and welcome. I've got a strange problem with my new q6600 and my new ga-x38-dq6 gigabyte mobo. Whatever I tried, I couldn't manage to get him past 267x9 that is being displayed during POST or even in windows with cpuz. Different voltages, lower multiplier, memory timings at default value or manually changed etc. Any idea why this is happening? My system rig is a q6600 G0 stepping B, a gigabyte ga-x38-dq6, 2x1 GB Ocz 1066 SLI READY and a Hiper Type R 730 W power supply. I am really confused. I have tried almost everything. I have the latest bios (F6b) and have also tried with F5f, F5g, F5h with no difference. Any help appreciated.
PS: The strange thing is that when i tried just from curiosity to lower the fsb, for example 260, it kept saying 267x9 during POST. Only when I have manually set 266x9 or set it to automatic it says the normal value (266x9). I have also disabled of course c.i.a. 2 and other features that possibly don't let the fsb go higher (enhanced halt, eist etc.)
PS 2: TheBeagle, you have best regards from jaggerwild from the forums of Tweaktown 😛
PS: The strange thing is that when i tried just from curiosity to lower the fsb, for example 260, it kept saying 267x9 during POST. Only when I have manually set 266x9 or set it to automatic it says the normal value (266x9). I have also disabled of course c.i.a. 2 and other features that possibly don't let the fsb go higher (enhanced halt, eist etc.)
PS 2: TheBeagle, you have best regards from jaggerwild from the forums of Tweaktown 😛
TheBeagle
Senior member
Good Evening Mr. Costadr.
It would seem that you might have missed some important CMOS setting(s), since it would appear that your rig reverts to basic settings after you close (and Save?) the setup window. As you might have noticed, one of the items that was supposedly "corrected" by the F6b BIOS revision was the spontaneous discard of CMOS settings. However, gremlins have been known to silently creep into some machines and cause untold misery to the God-Fearing owners of those devices. Therefore, a strong dose of "machine medicine" might be in order to dispel these evil forces - LOL!!
To begin with, may we presume (I tend not to use the word "assume" due to the cliché that goes with that term) that you begin the CMOS setup routine with the Ctrl+F1 key strokes? Then we need to know exactly what settings are being employed on each of the CMOS screens. Since there are many variables that could contribute to this situation, it would be better to know all the exact settings. I am using the same CPU with 8GB of RAM, and a case full of other components, and I've had no trouble clocking that Q6600 (G0) to better than 3.50GHz on air cooling (although I regularly run it at 362 x 9 = 3.25GHz).
Therefore, you either have an errant CMOS setting, OR, you have a messed up motherboard. Please post a compilation of your array of CMOS settings so we can get a look at those factors to begin with. Have faith, together we all will help you get to the bottom of this problem, whatever it might be.
Best regards to everyone. TheBeagle 😀 :beer:
PS. Please extend my warmest greetings and salutations to Mr. Jaggerwild as well!
It would seem that you might have missed some important CMOS setting(s), since it would appear that your rig reverts to basic settings after you close (and Save?) the setup window. As you might have noticed, one of the items that was supposedly "corrected" by the F6b BIOS revision was the spontaneous discard of CMOS settings. However, gremlins have been known to silently creep into some machines and cause untold misery to the God-Fearing owners of those devices. Therefore, a strong dose of "machine medicine" might be in order to dispel these evil forces - LOL!!
To begin with, may we presume (I tend not to use the word "assume" due to the cliché that goes with that term) that you begin the CMOS setup routine with the Ctrl+F1 key strokes? Then we need to know exactly what settings are being employed on each of the CMOS screens. Since there are many variables that could contribute to this situation, it would be better to know all the exact settings. I am using the same CPU with 8GB of RAM, and a case full of other components, and I've had no trouble clocking that Q6600 (G0) to better than 3.50GHz on air cooling (although I regularly run it at 362 x 9 = 3.25GHz).
Therefore, you either have an errant CMOS setting, OR, you have a messed up motherboard. Please post a compilation of your array of CMOS settings so we can get a look at those factors to begin with. Have faith, together we all will help you get to the bottom of this problem, whatever it might be.
Best regards to everyone. TheBeagle 😀 :beer:
PS. Please extend my warmest greetings and salutations to Mr. Jaggerwild as well!
Firstly, thank you for your answer. It really seems a problem without solution as I have tried almost everything (no faith here I think 😛). Anyway, one set of settings that I have tried was this one:
MIT (Motherboard Intelligent Tweaker)
Robust Graphics Booster Auto
CPU Clock Ratio 9x
CPU Frequency 3.00GHz (333x9)
CPU Host Clock Control Enabled
PCI Express Frequency Auto
CIA 2 Disabled
Performance Enhanced with: Standard
System Memory Multiplier (SPD) Auto (or 1:1, 3:2 etc.)
DRAM Timing Selectable (SPD) Auto (Or Manual - I have tried both)
** standard timing control **
CAS Latency Time 5 Auto
DRAM RAS# to CAS# Delay 5 Auto
DRAM RAS# Precharge 5 Auto
Precharge delay (tRAS) 15 Auto
** advanced timing control **
ACT to ACT Delay (tRRD) 3 Auto
Rank Write to READ Delay 3 Auto
Write to Precharge Delay 5 Auto
Refresh to ACT Delay 36 0
Read to Precharge Delay 3 Auto
Static tRead Value 3 Auto
Static tRead Phase Adjust 0 Auto
Command Rate (CMD) 2 Auto
** Clock Driving & Skew Control **
CPU/PCIEX Clock Driving Control 800mV
CPU Clock Skew Control Normal
(G)MCH Clock Skew Control Normal
System Voltage Control Auto
DDR2 OverVoltage Control Normal
PCI-E OverVoltage Control Normal
FSB OverVoltage Control Normal
(G)MCH OverVoltage Control Normal
MCH Reference Voltage Control Normal
DDR Reference Voltage Control Normal
DDR Termination Voltage Control Normal
CPU Voltage Control xxxxxxx
Normal CPU Vcore 1.3 volt
I have also disabled as you can see in my first post eist, enhanced halt and similar settings. The thing is that at stock timings and settings I have no prob;em with my system. My best regards! Hoping for a help! 🙂
MIT (Motherboard Intelligent Tweaker)
Robust Graphics Booster Auto
CPU Clock Ratio 9x
CPU Frequency 3.00GHz (333x9)
CPU Host Clock Control Enabled
PCI Express Frequency Auto
CIA 2 Disabled
Performance Enhanced with: Standard
System Memory Multiplier (SPD) Auto (or 1:1, 3:2 etc.)
DRAM Timing Selectable (SPD) Auto (Or Manual - I have tried both)
** standard timing control **
CAS Latency Time 5 Auto
DRAM RAS# to CAS# Delay 5 Auto
DRAM RAS# Precharge 5 Auto
Precharge delay (tRAS) 15 Auto
** advanced timing control **
ACT to ACT Delay (tRRD) 3 Auto
Rank Write to READ Delay 3 Auto
Write to Precharge Delay 5 Auto
Refresh to ACT Delay 36 0
Read to Precharge Delay 3 Auto
Static tRead Value 3 Auto
Static tRead Phase Adjust 0 Auto
Command Rate (CMD) 2 Auto
** Clock Driving & Skew Control **
CPU/PCIEX Clock Driving Control 800mV
CPU Clock Skew Control Normal
(G)MCH Clock Skew Control Normal
System Voltage Control Auto
DDR2 OverVoltage Control Normal
PCI-E OverVoltage Control Normal
FSB OverVoltage Control Normal
(G)MCH OverVoltage Control Normal
MCH Reference Voltage Control Normal
DDR Reference Voltage Control Normal
DDR Termination Voltage Control Normal
CPU Voltage Control xxxxxxx
Normal CPU Vcore 1.3 volt
I have also disabled as you can see in my first post eist, enhanced halt and similar settings. The thing is that at stock timings and settings I have no prob;em with my system. My best regards! Hoping for a help! 🙂
TheBeagle
Senior member
Good Evening Mr. Costasdr.
Most of your CMOS settings seem OK, but I noticed that you have NOT indicated any increase in voltage for your memory or CPU. If your memory sticks normally run at 2.2V, then you need to add .40V to the base settings, since it is likely that the nominal voltage is 1.8V. But BEFORE you do that, check the actual indicated memory voltage in the PC Health Page of the CMOS setup. While your at it, make note of the VCore setting as well.
Presuming that the memory voltage setting indicates 1.8V or so, then you need to make up the difference by adding an appropriate additional voltage. Some memory runs at a lesser voltage, i.e., G'Skill memory usually runs at 2.1V. Check on the manufacturer's specification, and set the additional voltage accordingly.
Also, you likely need to add some voltage to the VCore setting as well. At 333 x 9, a conservative VCore setting would be 1.450 or so. You can adjust that up or down depending on how the board responds to the next factor I will discuss.
That next factor is the System Memory Multiplier. I have NEVER had any luck with allowing the X38 board to set it's own multiplier. Indeed, you should be able to set the CPU Frequency at 362 x 9 = 3.25GHz, and the Memory multiplier at 2.66C. This will give you a starting point of about 800 - 965 MHz for your base memory speed.
The situation that you describe about the board always reverting to stock settings is likely the safety fall-back function that is built into the board, and the CMOS is actually doing its job. By that I mean, the CMOS is designed to revert back to its basic settings whenever an array of optional settings (i.e. overclocked settings) cannot be supported by the board. My experience with the X38 board so far has shown that the most likely setting to cause that fall-back to occur is the "Auto" function of the Memory Multiplier. This is most especially true when there may be insufficient voltage to the DDR2 memory sticks to allow for any kind of a higher clock rate to be applied to the memory and sustained by the board.
Of course, there's no guarantee that this is the cause of the problem that you are experiencing, but a best-guesstimate on my part tends to suggest that you look in that direction for a possible solution to your dilemma. Let us know how you make out with all of that.
Best regards to everyone. TheBeagle 😀 :beer:
Most of your CMOS settings seem OK, but I noticed that you have NOT indicated any increase in voltage for your memory or CPU. If your memory sticks normally run at 2.2V, then you need to add .40V to the base settings, since it is likely that the nominal voltage is 1.8V. But BEFORE you do that, check the actual indicated memory voltage in the PC Health Page of the CMOS setup. While your at it, make note of the VCore setting as well.
Presuming that the memory voltage setting indicates 1.8V or so, then you need to make up the difference by adding an appropriate additional voltage. Some memory runs at a lesser voltage, i.e., G'Skill memory usually runs at 2.1V. Check on the manufacturer's specification, and set the additional voltage accordingly.
Also, you likely need to add some voltage to the VCore setting as well. At 333 x 9, a conservative VCore setting would be 1.450 or so. You can adjust that up or down depending on how the board responds to the next factor I will discuss.
That next factor is the System Memory Multiplier. I have NEVER had any luck with allowing the X38 board to set it's own multiplier. Indeed, you should be able to set the CPU Frequency at 362 x 9 = 3.25GHz, and the Memory multiplier at 2.66C. This will give you a starting point of about 800 - 965 MHz for your base memory speed.
The situation that you describe about the board always reverting to stock settings is likely the safety fall-back function that is built into the board, and the CMOS is actually doing its job. By that I mean, the CMOS is designed to revert back to its basic settings whenever an array of optional settings (i.e. overclocked settings) cannot be supported by the board. My experience with the X38 board so far has shown that the most likely setting to cause that fall-back to occur is the "Auto" function of the Memory Multiplier. This is most especially true when there may be insufficient voltage to the DDR2 memory sticks to allow for any kind of a higher clock rate to be applied to the memory and sustained by the board.
Of course, there's no guarantee that this is the cause of the problem that you are experiencing, but a best-guesstimate on my part tends to suggest that you look in that direction for a possible solution to your dilemma. Let us know how you make out with all of that.
Best regards to everyone. TheBeagle 😀 :beer:
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