What's the "starter fish" you put in an aquarium to lower ammonia levels?

[AgaBoogaBoo]

I need to pick up the fish to get my aquarium's ammonia levels down a little for a week before I put others in and needed the name. Petsmart is closed and so I'll have to go to Walmart to get the fish, where they probably wouldn't know.

 

[giantpinkbunnyhead]

I'd just buy cheap fish; but bonus points if they're compatible with your other fish. That way nobody makes a snack out of them. Maybe a couple danios or something. How big is the tank?

 

[spidey07]

dont' do that. Just put in a piece of shrimp to get your cycle started.

 

[FoBoT]

mollies will live in almost anything, just be sure to add some salt
or you can get some feeder goldfish

 

[tweakmm]

I got a few 99 cent black clouds from a local shop to start my cycle.

 

[AgaBoogaBoo]

LadyBuggy just told me I was thinking of Zebra Danios, so I'll grab some of those. Thanks for the comments. Btw, it's her birthday too

 

[Rubycon]

Adding fish will RAISE NH3 levels not lower them!

It's customary to use "seeder" fish to provide a source of organic ammonia to get the nitrogen cycle started. Remember, ammonia is converted to nitrites (which are also toxic) which then are finally converted to a much less (and much harder to remove - outside of periodical water changes) nitrate nitrogen. This is a well known process and there's much information to be found.

You can also enhance this process by purchasing cultures designed just for this purpose. Any decently stocked "wet pet" store should carry them. As always read the directions printed on the product!!!

There's lots of species that are more "hardened" than others for running in a system. Monitor ammonia levels frequently as well as the pH. Water that's buffered incorrectly causing the pH to be abnormally high (> 8.0, for example) will INCREASE the free ammonia making it far more toxic than a beginner's test kit scale and documentation will reveal. Keep the water buffered properly at a nominal pH of 7.0 and the break in period will be a LOT less stressful to your livestock.

 

[Tab]

You don't need starter fish, just let the tank sit for a week. Put a couple food or pellets in the tank.

Slowly, add livestock afterwards.

 

[schneiderguy]

get two male beta fish and stick them in the same tank... they will clean it very fast :Q

 

[avash]

i had my 20 gal tank sit for 3 or 4 days, then had it tested, put three african cichlids. added 2 large danios but had to take them out because the danios started attacking each other. been a week. 20% water change. so far, so good.

 

[BoomerD]

As MsDawn says, adding fish will increase the ammonia level, NOT lower it. I've been in the hobby for over 30 yrs, and there is NO animal that will lower the ammonia levels. It takes nitrosomas (or nitrobacter) bacteria to do this.
Personally, I'm against using fish to kick off the ammonia cycle. Seems kind of cruel to the fish who has to live in that toxic soup. MUCH better to simply take a piece of shrimp from the grocery store, toss it in, and let it decompose in the tank. That will provide all the ammonia your tank will need to get started. After that, all it takes is some time. A cycle usually takes about 4-6 weeks start to finish. There are some bottled "bacterial cycle enhancers", most of which are just snake oil, designed to seperate your from your $$$.

 

[GoingUp]

Originally posted by: MS Dawn
Adding fish will RAISE NH3 levels not lower them!

It's customary to use "seeder" fish to provide a source of organic ammonia to get the nitrogen cycle started. Remember, ammonia is converted to nitrites (which are also toxic) which then are finally converted to a much less (and much harder to remove - outside of periodical water changes) nitrate nitrogen. This is a well known process and there's much information to be found.

You can also enhance this process by purchasing cultures designed just for this purpose. Any decently stocked "wet pet" store should carry them. As always read the directions printed on the product!!!

There's lots of species that are more "hardened" than others for running in a system. Monitor ammonia levels frequently as well as the pH. Water that's buffered incorrectly causing the pH to be abnormally high (> 8.0, for example) will INCREASE the free ammonia making it far more toxic than a beginner's test kit scale and documentation will reveal. Keep the water buffered properly at a nominal pH of 7.0 and the break in period will be a LOT less stressful to your livestock.

Nerd