What's a good surface for a workshop?

[Imaginer]

My dad put together a ceramic tile work top once. He really liked it, and he did a lot of soldering work. No melting, burning, staining, shorting, and solder/most adhesives simply would not stick.

This is also another good compromise. In lieu of a Formica top, tile would work well (though for me, I am not sure about the grout lines - would need to tile it to have little of the crevice lines in between). This still would be a bit more costly than the Formica option though.

Tile is still prone to cracking under impact though and is something of consideration.

 

[alkemyst]

 

[Imaginer]

In regards to the pre-made resin benchtops, that would be your best option. This saves you time in having to make the bench, while having the most immediate utility (considering that cost isn't as much of a concern).

Also, storage options to taste underneath and seating stowing of stools or chairs to taste.

If you just get the surface pre-applied resin bench top (not an entire table), do note one still has to make a torsion box underneath. Most of the resin benches are of plywood (can be MDF). Support from sagging would still need to be accounted for.

 

[rudeguy]

Application for a flat, smooth surface with minimal artifacts of dust when applying and drying need to be considered. Also, the table needs to be built level first, to ensure that the coats do not favor one side over another - thus an uneven coat.



Also, giving many coats, resin is on par if not more expensive per surface area of the bench compared to a Formica sheet (however on a small bench level, if you can get a cost for a small Formica sheet - that still is cheaper than resin - typical sheets are at 4 feet by 8 feet).



Metal, while having some stain resistance - would still stain. Same with porous stone (hence the granite suggestions). Metal, would corrode if not protected.

Are you intentionally trying to be ignorant? It's not applied in coats.

 

[alkemyst]

A tile-topped workshop is what women call their kitchen.

 

[Imaginer]

Are you intentionally trying to be ignorant? It's not applied in coats.

I wasn't. I only vouched from a from scratch application at home.

The pouring to a desired thickness, can be considered "many coats". Hence why I mistakenly used that term in your eyes.

Also, I missed the post about the black phenolic resin before I made that post.

That correction to my post for clarification, could do without that insult - thanks.

 

[alkemyst]

So, OP what kind of apron you going to where in this 'workshop'?

 

[Tech_Greek]

I've always done stainless steel with a ESD mat on one side.

You can clean it easily, if you buy higher quality it lasts forever almost, and can take a pretty good beating.

 

[alkemyst]

I love stainless steel workbenches and desks. Sure they scratch, but *ANY* workbench will.

I use a sacrificial top on mine for heavy stuff and stuff that requires something softer than SS.

I haven't gotten any stains on mine and if you use good enough stainless it doesn't really "stain" (rust).

 

[Tech_Greek]

The great thing about SS is even if you scratch it (unless it's some gouge that pierces the metal) you can always polish it out.

 

[rudeguy]

The great thing about SS is even if you scratch it (unless it's some gouge that pierces the metal) you can always polish it out.

But it conducts, which I can't have. The last thing I need to to fry a board because of some random short. I know its rare but I have had it happen with other things. You only need to have a problem like that once before you become severely sensitive to it.

Anyways, the resin is what I'm going with. Contractor should be back soon with some sample for flooring. We are trying to find a reasonably priced, ESD safe flooring solution. The air is super staticky up here and we want to experiment a bit to see if different flooring would help with that.

Then after that...lighting! Going LED for sure.