I'd skip lunch for a week and go for that $225 retail ATI 256MB 9800P at NewEgg (there's a thread in Hot Deals). If you're really pinching pennies, look around for a $200 128MB 9800P.
The most cost-effective choice for a high-performing card would be to pick up a used 9700/P or 9800/P from all those people who are upgrading to X800s and 6800s. 9700Ps should go for $100-125, used.