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what wears brakes quicker? short, hard, quick stops or slow, gradual braking?

B

BlahBlahYouToo

Lifer
in one case, you're on the brakes for a short amount of time, but very high in intensity.

the other case, you're on the brakes for a longer time, but very lightly grinding away pad material.
 
Originally posted by: Don Vito Corleone
I'm going with short, hard, quick stops, in light of the fact that one day on the track can do as much damage as years of normal brake use.
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I'm not saying you are wrong, however I think that has more to do with how often you are braking than how you are applying the brakes. On a track there is much less time allowed for heat dissipation.
 
Originally posted by: SithSolo1
Originally posted by: Don Vito Corleone
I'm going with short, hard, quick stops, in light of the fact that one day on the track can do as much damage as years of normal brake use.
Click to expand...

I'm not saying you are wrong, however I think that has more to do with how often you are breaking than how you are applying the breaks. On a track there is much less time allowed for heat dissipation.
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Sorry, but the inability to spell "brakes" is a huge pet peeve of mine.
 
Originally posted by: SithSolo1
Originally posted by: Don Vito Corleone
I'm going with short, hard, quick stops, in light of the fact that one day on the track can do as much damage as years of normal brake use.
Click to expand...

I'm not saying you are wrong, however I think that has more to do with how often you are breaking than how you are applying the breaks. On a track there is much less time allowed for heat dissipation.
Click to expand...

Another way to say it would be that it has more to do with how often you are braking than with how you apply the brakes. 😉

Heat is what kills brakes. Driving down a long hill with the brakes on will cause excessive heat and warp rotors and glaze pads/discs. Hard stops also put a lot of heat into the brakes very quickly and probably put you more at risk of getting rear ended so I'd try to minimize the hard fast stops and leave yourself more room, it is easier on all components, not just the brakes.
 
I think Jules put it best. I recommend using a little engine braking on long decents...but then that brings up a whole other debate on wear on the brakes vs. wear on the engine parts/clutch.
 
Originally posted by: PricklyPete
I think Jules put it best. I recommend using a little engine braking on long decents...but then that brings up a whole other debate on wear on the brakes vs. wear on the engine parts/clutch.
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Engine braking doesn't put any measurable additional wear on your engine or drivetrain.
 
Originally posted by: JulesMaximus
Originally posted by: PricklyPete
I think Jules put it best. I recommend using a little engine braking on long decents...but then that brings up a whole other debate on wear on the brakes vs. wear on the engine parts/clutch.
Click to expand...

Engine braking doesn't put any measurable additional wear on your engine or drivetrain.
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is the same in manual and automatics?
 
Originally posted by: npoe1
Originally posted by: JulesMaximus
Originally posted by: PricklyPete
I think Jules put it best. I recommend using a little engine braking on long decents...but then that brings up a whole other debate on wear on the brakes vs. wear on the engine parts/clutch.
Click to expand...

Engine braking doesn't put any measurable additional wear on your engine or drivetrain.
Click to expand...

is the same in manual and automatics?
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If you do it correctly yes. Rev matching and downshifting is going to put very very minimal additional wear on your drivetrain. With an automatic that's what the torque converter does.
 
While I am no automotive expert, I have lived on or near mountains (well, a ridge) since childhood and can tell you that brake wear can result even from gradual braking.

Yes, rapid stops will wear down your brakes more quickly than gradual braking, but it is important to note that staying on the brake pedal for too long (riding the brakes) on a steady downhill will also eat your brakes for breakfast (brakefast?). I hate getting stuck behind some driver with no experience on the main road up Signal Mountain who rides their brakes constantly; I do not love the smell of burning brakes in the morning (or any other time of day).

The trick to helping your brakes live a long time is to ease into the brakes until you get the stopping power that you want and then ease off and repeat. I frequently pump the brakes 2-3 times before finally leaving my foot on the pedal to come to a complete stop. Brake early and gradually. It helps to know when you need to stop, so obviously this trick won't work on roads with which you are unfamiliar and/or in emergency situations where quick stops are necessary.

And yes, engine braking can work quite well, though I have never bothered doing so on my vehicles.
 
Originally posted by: DrMrLordX
While I am no automotive expert, I have lived on or near mountains (well, a ridge) since childhood and can tell you that brake wear can result even from gradual braking.

Yes, rapid stops will wear down your brakes more quickly than gradual braking, but it is important to note that staying on the brake pedal for too long (riding the brakes) on a steady downhill will also eat your brakes for breakfast (brakefast?). I hate getting stuck behind some driver with no experience on the main road up Signal Mountain who rides their brakes constantly; I do not love the smell of burning brakes in the morning (or any other time of day).

The trick to helping your brakes live a long time is to ease into the brakes until you get the stopping power that you want and then ease off and repeat. I frequently pump the brakes 2-3 times before finally leaving my foot on the pedal to come to a complete stop. Brake early and gradually. It helps to know when you need to stop, so obviously this trick won't work on roads with which you are unfamiliar and/or in emergency situations where quick stops are necessary.

And yes, engine braking can work quite well, though I have never bothered doing so on my vehicles.
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gotta love the smell of toasted brakes at the bottom of a mountain created by those who ride 'em all the way down.

i just drop it a gear or 2 and let the engine keep the car at a constant speed.
but then the debate becomes, is it good to let the engine maintain 5k RPM the entire time down the mountain.
 
Originally posted by: BlahBlahYouToo
gotta love the smell of toasted brakes at the bottom of a mountain created by those who ride 'em all the way down.

i just drop it a gear or 2 and let the engine keep the car at a constant speed.
but then the debate becomes, is it good to let the engine maintain 5k RPM the entire time down the mountain.
Click to expand...

Since the oil and water pump will be operating the duration of the 5k period, the amount of additional wear on the engine should be negligible. The only real stress would be on the clutch if you failed to properly match RPMS of the transmission with the engine when first beginning to use the engine.
 
I have the same question, except about brake dust. Which of the two methods makes less over time?
 
Originally posted by: BlahBlahYouToo

gotta love the smell of toasted brakes at the bottom of a mountain created by those who ride 'em all the way down.
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Ugh. Tell me about it.

Around here its Ochs Highway and Roberts Mill Road that are the #1 brake eaters, though you have to be insane to take Roberts Mill anyway . . .

i just drop it a gear or 2 and let the engine keep the car at a constant speed.
but then the debate becomes, is it good to let the engine maintain 5k RPM the entire time down the mountain.
Click to expand...

That works well, especially for people with auto transmissions, but some people seem to be scared of the noises their car makes coasting downhill in 2nd gear.

Originally posted by: The Boston Dangler

well done
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Thank you sir, I do my best.
 
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