What was your latest tech purchase?

[Vdubchaos]

Wow man, I hate to tell you, but you've just been listening to non-HD audio all this time when playing 3D BD's. DTS and Dolby Digital are your standard surround audio codec. TrueHD (Dolby) and DTS-HD MA are your HD audio codecs. So yeah, given that you have a nice theater setup, I think you'll definitely benefit from a new BD player, and I'd definitely go with an Oppo 103.

And bit streaming is a nut shell just means, the audio from the player is being passed to the receiver for decoding. With bit streaming, your receiver will be able to properly identify the HD audio tracks and display it on the receiver's front panel. Otherwise the player will decode the codec and send the signal via PCM to the receiver. In this case, the receiver will only identify the stream as PCM with no distinction of whether it is TrueHD or DTS-HD MA. Technically either way (bit stream or PCM) should sound the same, I just prefer bit streaming for volume consistency across sources and the ability for my receiver to correctly identify and display the audio codec.

I find it amazing that he doesn't know ANY of this.

THis it the guy that had $3000 speakers that "weren't good enough" and went to buy "$6000 speakers". To think that people spend SO much money on this stuff without basic knowledge of how these things work......well, it is typical in this country.

WOW

So yeah Purebeast, all this time your 6k speakers probably sounded "not as good" as my POS low end Polks as difference between Analog and Digital audio is most likely more significant.

Money well spent

 

[Aharami]

I agree, but the original PS3 doesn't have the capability to send the raw data stream (bit streaming). So instead you'll have to settle for decoding on the player and sending a PCM signal to the receiver. Both are digital, but I prefer the decoding to be done on the receiver/processor rather than on the player.

The other instance where you'd want to bypass the chain (source>processor>TV) is if you have a receiver that's not HDMI 1.4 compliant but want to view 3D movies on your new 3D HDTV. Instead of buying a new receiver, a dual HDMI 1.4 player will let you send the audio stream to the receiver and let you connect the other HDMI cable to your 3D capable TV for the video. Definitely a good option to have.

in that case, wouldn't it be wiser to spend that $1500 on a new AVR that can do a lot more than spending it on a new blu ray player?

 

[vi edit]

in that case, wouldn't it be wiser to spend that $1500 on a new AVR that can do a lot more than spending it on a new blu ray player?

No the PS3 can't physically(err digitally?) send the 3D video and high def audio feeds at the same time. A new receiver won't fix that.

 

[Via]

Apple ipad 4.

I hate to admit it, but it's already become as indispensable as my cellphone. It only took a week or two.

 

[JackBurton]

in that case, wouldn't it be wiser to spend that $1500 on a new AVR that can do a lot more than spending it on a new blu ray player?

Well look at it this way, if you have a $2K+ receiver/processor, would it be more cost effective to replace that unit and buy a cheap BD player, or just buy a $500 Oppo player?

 

[purbeast0]

I find it amazing that he doesn't know ANY of this.

THis it the guy that had $3000 speakers that "weren't good enough" and went to buy "$6000 speakers". To think that people spend SO much money on this stuff without basic knowledge of how these things work......well, it is typical in this country.

WOW

So yeah Purebeast, all this time your 6k speakers probably sounded "not as good" as my POS low end Polks as difference between Analog and Digital audio is most likely more significant.

Money well spent

i've watched 2 3d bluray movies... 2.

"OMER GERD 2 WHOLE MOVIES WHERE YOU DID NOT GET THE HD AUDIO!!!"

also you got your stories about me mixed up with someone else apparently. i give you a B+ for troll effort though.

 

[Aharami]

No the PS3 can't physically(err digitally?) send the 3D video and high def audio feeds at the same time. A new receiver won't fix that.

ah, i should've been more clear. what I meant was spend the bulk of the budget on a new AVR and replace the PS3 (as the BRD player) with a $100 one

Well look at it this way, if you have a $2K+ receiver/processor, would it be more cost effective to replace that unit and buy a cheap BD player, or just buy a $500 Oppo player?

yea point well taken. But I'd think that if your receiver is so old that it can't handle HD Audio, then it might be time to upgrade as there might be other new tech you might be missing out on with the old AVR. My point was that upgrading the AVR should be a priority over upgrading a blu ray player.

But I think we are derailing this thread now.


As to answer the OP, I haven't bought anything tech for a while now. The closest thing that might be considered tech that I purchased recently is a vehicle speed sensor for my car (speedometer stopped working).

 

[ManBearPig]

deleted

 

[purbeast0]

I ran into the same problem with the earlier ps3, purbeast. Eventually just sold mine and got a newer slim that bitstreams. I hear the difference isn't even that huge (wasnt for me), but I figure if I spent the money for an hd capable receiver I want the damn HD letters to show up on the receivers LCD. But yeah, set it to linear PCM or whatever like jack/aharami said. I don't blame you for not knowing. I was like WTF when I found out.

apparently the ps3 fat can do it. the update to the fw was a couple years ago. i have no clue what my setting is to be honest.

it's pretty amazing to think that my system could sound better. i can't really fathom how.

 

[JackBurton]

yea point well taken. But I'd think that if your receiver is so old that it can't handle HD Audio, then it might be time to upgrade as there might be other new tech you might be missing out on with the old AVR. My point was that upgrading the AVR should be a priority over upgrading a blu ray player.

But I think we are derailing this thread now.

But that's the thing, it CAN handle the HD audio codecs, it just can't do 3D. That's where a new player with dual HDMI 1.4 makes sense.

But I agree with you, I'll step back and quit derailing this thread.

 

[MotionMan]

I just had to buy two replacement batteries for our 2009 MacBooks (via Amazon where they are $10 cheaper than at the Apple Store and I had a large credit).

The Genius at the Apple Store said the typical battery should last about 2 years and about 200 "full recharges". Ours are about 4 years old and have over 400 "full recharges".

May the new batteries fair so well.

MotionMan

 

[Ichinisan]

Apple-brand HDMI cable...brand new. Found it on clearance for $5.xx -- I guess I just got it for the novelty.

I like that Apple products usually don't kink-up the cable in the package.

 

[RossMAN]

$15.99 with free shipping @ NewEgg
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0084Y47SK/

 

[MotionMan]

Apple-brand HDMI cable...brand new. Found it on clearance for $5.xx

From where?

MotionMan

 

[adairusmc]

I just picked up a low profile Radeon 7750 in FS/FT to replace the 5450 in my HTPC.

 

[bryanl]

Rotary phone

 

[jhu]

Ibuprofen

 

[hans007]

i bought a $50 bluetooth speaker that can be powered by AA batteries. sits on my coffee table and is water resistant for the summer when i figure ill take it to the beach.

other than that i havent bought anything electronic since maybe late 2012 when i replaced my galaxy nexus with a droid razr m.

tech seems to have really slowed down as far as being worth upgrading. i have a sandy bridge laptop that i mostly use as a desktop and around the house. when i bought it i figured it'd last until haswell when i'd replace it. but now i figure i wont even replace it as i've seen some haswell benchmarks and its not a huge enough difference to bother.

the hobbyist in me is dead because there just arent that many compelling things to buy anymore. anyone else feel this way?

 

[CZroe]

From where?

MotionMan

Target clearance, so YMMV.

 

[Tweak155]

But that's the thing, it CAN handle the HD audio codecs, it just can't do 3D. That's where a new player with dual HDMI 1.4 makes sense.

But I agree with you, I'll step back and quit derailing this thread.

It was a good thread derail though, I learned a bit.

I have a nice audio set up at home but I'm not an enthusiast so all together my setup is under $1k (or about $1k - 5 surround speakers, sub & receiver - speakers / sub 10+ years old now, damn!) and was good enough for me. But maybe I can make it better from just a few settings.

 

[ultimatebob]

Ibuprofen

If I buy my wife custom jewelry online, does that count because I used technology?

 

[MonKENy]

bought the LG47G2 Google TV

http://www.lg.com/us/tvs/lg-47G2-led-tv

didnt like it. Was choppy and had wierd starting issues (would start in 3D mode for some reason) Returned it

Waiting for the refund to buy

http://shop.panasonic.com/shop/model/TC-P50S60

Hoping it gets refunded soon. I have Amazon put in an escalated refund request.

 

[CZroe]

A four-pack of T2AL250V fuses to fix a set of awesome Logitech Z-680 speakers. $3.50 at Radio Shack to fix a $400 set of speakers that's been collecting dust since I bought them new in ~2003/4.

I never got to use them because the right-front speaker channel was blown and I didn't catch on until two days outside of the warranty. A little bit of solder and it's as good as new!

For anyone searching for a solution to the same problem: The fuses for individual channels are in the amp built into the subwoofer (well, attached to the back, really). No one should have any trouble finding the main, user-serviceable fuse there, but you have to take it apart to get to these. The wires going into the speaker and transformer are all glued and soldered with very little room to move the amp, heatsink, and distribution block portion away from the rest of the speaker box so you can't simply remove the PCB to work elsewhere. I turned the subwoofer on its side and balanced on a stack of magazines (variable height ) to avoid desoldering or cut 'n' splicin' the wires, but it's still pretty awkward. The fuses have axial leads (through-hole components) and are all heat-shrinked and soldered in a mostly vertical arrangement along one side of the PCB with silk-screened "F[#]" designations. "Mostly." The bottom one is turned 90-degrees and there is another all alone on the opposite side. The very top one (F5) seems to be dedicated to the right-front channel. I used a multi-tester to test continuity but you can cut away the heat-shrink tubing to check visually because they are glass-type fuses. Despite how the caps on either end look, they are not removable without cutting or desoldering the leads. radio Shack didn't sell fuse holders for 20mm fuses so, to keep wire length minimal, I made my own leads from some stripped solid-core hook-up wire. I think it would have been a lot easier/cleaner if I had desoldered the old fuse and used the holes with my leads. I just hope there aren't blobs of solder dangling on the underside!

Logitech puzzles me. They don't service their equipment in or outside of warranty (no RMA), they don't publish service manuals to get it serviced by a pro, they don't consider these fuses user-serviceable, and they don't even bat an eye before shipping a whole replacement set to someone who simply touched the speaker wire together while the system was on (in warranty of course).

No doubt, that's why they eventually switched to RCA plugs instead of speaker wire for loose spring terminals on some Z-5500 sets, but I still have to wonder: why the hell do they bother protecting the different channels with a fuse if they don't do or allow for repairs and they are just going to send out another set of $400 speakers for free? I dunno... their latest set might be a lot more these days. The Z680s were $400 back in 2003/2004.

These have been sitting around for almost 9 years and now they finally get their chance to shine.

 

[Ichinisan]

A four-pack of T2AL250V fuses to fix a set of awesome Logitech Z-680 speakers. $3.50 at Radio Shack to fix a $400 set of speakers that's been collecting dust since I bought them new in ~2003/4.

I never got to use them because the right-front speaker channel was blown and I didn't catch on until two days outside of the warranty. A little bit of solder and it's as good as new!

For anyone searching for a solution to the same problem: The fuses for individual channels are in the amp built into the subwoofer (well, attached to the back, really). No one should have any trouble finding the main, user-serviceable fuse there, but you have to take it apart to get to these. The wires going into the speaker and transformer are all glued and soldered with very little room to move the amp, heatsink, and distribution block portion away from the rest of the speaker box so you can't simply remove the PCB to work elsewhere. I turned the subwoofer on its side and balanced on a stack of magazines (variable height ) to avoid desoldering or cut 'n' splicin' the wires, but it's still pretty awkward. The fuses have axial leads (through-hole components) and are all heat-shrinked and soldered in a mostly vertical arrangement along one side of the PCB with silk-screened "F[#]" designations. "Mostly." The bottom one is turned 90-degrees and there is another all alone on the opposite side. The very top one (F5) seems to be dedicated to the right-front channel. I used a multi-tester to test continuity but you can cut away the heat-shrink tubing to check visually because they are glass-type fuses. Despite how the caps on either end look, they are not removable without cutting or desoldering the leads. radio Shack didn't sell fuse holders for 20mm fuses so, to keep wire length minimal, I made my own leads from some stripped solid-core hook-up wire. I think it would have been a lot easier/cleaner if I had desoldered the old fuse and used the holes with my leads. I just hope there aren't blobs of solder dangling on the underside!

Logitech puzzles me. They don't service their equipment in or outside of warranty (no RMA), they don't publish service manuals to get it serviced by a pro, they don't consider these fuses user-serviceable, and they don't even bat an eye before shipping a whole replacement set to someone who simply touched the speaker wire together while the system was on (in warranty of course).

No doubt, that's why they eventually switched to RCA plugs instead of speaker wire for loose spring terminals on some Z-5500 sets, but I still have to wonder: why the hell do they bother protecting the different channels with a fuse if they don't do or allow for repairs and they are just going to send out another set of $400 speakers for free? I dunno... their latest set might be a lot more these days. The Z680s were $400 back in 2003/2004.

These have been sitting around for almost 9 years and now they finally get their chance to shine.

Wut

 

[IronWing]

Gasoline, it's supposed to have Techetron® tachyon enriched detergents or something.