What surge protector do you people recommend?

[Imported]

I'm looking to spend less than $50 for one as my college PC will need one. My brother says the Belkin Isolators are good, and I can get one for $39 after pricematching and using a coupon at OfficeMax..

Anyone have any info, recommendations, etc?

Thanks

 

[JoPalm]

APC?

 

[VietTiger395]

I have a power comm 3000 power surge thats very reliable...... although it is a bit old. Should be priced under $50

 

[MWink]

Absolutely positively DON'T get a Belkin!!! They are worthless pieces of junk. I know PLENTY of people who have had equipment connected to Belkin surge protectors fried. Also, Consumer Reports gave ALL the Belkins they tested a failing grade. I wouldn't trust a Belkin to protect my alarm clock.

I highly recommend APC. Their Professional and Network (same as Performance) grade surge protectors are excellent units. The Personal Surge Arrest's don't have good noise filtering so I don't use them. Remember to get one with data line protection. They have models with phone line, coax, or ethernet protection.

 

[Blain]

APC

 

[lozina]

Sure you can't cough up extra dough for a UPS ? I love it... I'm on my computer with a fierce lightning storm and the power goes out in my house yet I am still able to casually save my work and shut down my computer on battery power.. also normalizes the power going into your comp to level out the peaks and dips in typical current.

 

[Thor86]

Another vote for: APC. Hands down, the best surge protectors out there for all sensitive electronic equipment.

 

[dszd0g]

The Performance SurgeArrest 7 Outlet 120V is my new recommendation (I have been using the Network version). I have never had a problem with the professional version I had been using before I really looked at the specs. I mainly own the Network version, because the Performance is rather new. However, the Network version seems to be $10 more than the Performance with no difference in specs. They both come with the $100,000 guarentee.

If you walk around almost anyone's house you will find that 99% of the surge protectors have 330V or 400V of let-through and surge energy rating of less than 250 Joules (most surge protectors only label the let-through). Even the APC Notebook falls in this category, the Personal falls pretty close, and I really don't think the APC Personal is much better than any other generic surge protector. I think the APC Personal may have a faster response then some of the others, but that would just be a guess. If I had to guess, most surge protectors probably just use a fast-break fuse to handle the extreme case.

Here are the specs on the different APCs:

Your non-APC surge protector most likely has very close stats to the Notebook stats, except for a higher peak current. Let Through Voltage is often called "Transient Voltage Suppression" or something similar and I believe may be required to be printed by law. 600V(AC) is the maximum voltage allowed by a transient voltage surge suppressor (TVSS) aka surge protective devices (SPD) under UL 1449. UL 1449 certifies the device to one of the following let-through voltages:

330, 400, 500, 600, 700, 800, 900, 1000, 1200, 1500, 1800, 2000, 2500, 3000, 4000, 500, 6000.

Most surge protectors around the house have either 330V or 400V of let through.

Notebook:

Surge energy rating: 180 Joules
EMI/RFI Noise Rejection: 0.0dB
Peak Current Normal Mode: 6.5kA
Peak Current Common Mode: 0.00 kA
Let Through Voltage Rating: < 330V

Basic Surge:

Surge energy rating: 320 Joules
eP Joule Rating: 420
EMI/RFI Noise Rejection: 55.0dB
Peak Current Normal Mode: 13kA
Peak Current Common Mode: 20.00 kA
Let Through Voltage Rating: < 330V

Personal:

Surge energy rating: 240 Joules
eP Joule Rating: 1060
EMI/RFI Noise Rejection: 60.0dB
Peak Current Normal Mode: 6.5kA
Peak Current Common Mode: 13.0 kA
Let Through Voltage Rating: < 300V

Game Manager:

Surge energy rating: 420 Joules
eP Joule Rating: 420
EMI/RFI Noise Rejection: 55.0dB
Peak Current Normal Mode: 13kA
Peak Current Common Mode: 20.00 kA
Let Through Voltage Rating: < 330V

Professional:

Surge energy rating: 320 Joules
eP Joule Rating: 1760
EMI/RFI Noise Rejection: 60.0dB
Peak Current Normal Mode: 13kA
Peak Current Common Mode: 13.0 kA
Let Through Voltage Rating: < 85V

Power Manager:

Surge energy rating: 480 Joules
EMI/RFI Noise Rejection: 0.0dB
Peak Current Normal Mode: 13kA
Peak Current Common Mode: 26.00 kA
Let Through Voltage Rating: < 40V

Performance (I think this is new):

Surge energy rating: 480 Joules
eP Joule Rating: 3420
EMI/RFI Noise Rejection: 70.0dB
Peak Current Normal Mode: 13kA
Peak Current Common Mode: 26.00 kA
Let Through Voltage Rating: < 40V

Network:

Surge energy rating: 480 Joules
eP Joule Rating: 3420
EMI/RFI Noise Rejection: 70.0dB
Peak Current Normal Mode: 13kA
Peak Current Common Mode: 26.00 kA
Let Through Voltage Rating: < 40V

This is the best I have had to go on. I haven't found any sites that have actually tested various brands.

It is interesting to point out that Intel specifies that PC power supplies should be able to handle from 90V through 135V without problems when set to 115V AC, and from 180V to 265V AC when set to 230V AC. They should handle from 47 to 63Hz according to Intel.

If you look at Enermax's Website they also claim their power supplies are designed to operate from 90V through 135V from 47 to 63 Hz (Edit: Thank you someone and pointing out the typo here, it is definitely Hz not MHz here). Antec claims the same. It appears even the best power supply manufacturers are following the minimum design recommendations from Intel here.

This also means the best APC surge protector out there in the event of a worst case surge will run one's power supply out of spec. That seems a little sad to me.

I think this is why I believe (and I think I have read some articles claiming) that UPSes with AVR (Automatic Voltage Regulation) and that guarentee a sine wave enhance the lifetime of computer power supplies.

All my home computers are protected by APC
[Edit: Back-UPS Pro (I don't know why I always think I have Smart-UPS, I guess I wish I had Smart-UPS instead of Back-UPS Pro )].

 

[Gibson486]

Dam, I just want to get one for my college dorm. I think I'll just buy the one from Home Depot that was posted in Hot deals.

 

[mikable]

dszd0g, you take your power VERY seriously!


It was a good read with lots of excelent info, perhaps Anand will see the need for an informative review of popular surge/UPS units!

 

[Zepper]

It looks like some of those APC specs are listed as the UL spec it meets, and others with the true let thru. [Let Thru V= the diff between mains peak (about 170V for a standard AC line) and the cutoff V]. So the best APC offers is around 210V cutoff--well under the best UL rating of 333V. And I haven't seen much better. Too bad the APC units aren't still being made here in the states--the company should be renamed Chinese Power Conversion <g>!
.bh.

 

[glugglug]

Yet another vote for APC. There is a reason pretty much every PC in Florida has that particular brand. (Hint: 25 lightning strikes per square meter per year).

Don't know if they make non-UPS surge protectors - I really see such devices as extension cords/power splitters regardless of the brand and would NOT trust one of those things for actual surge protection.

 

[mithrandir2001]

Originally posted by: MWink
Absolutely positively DON'T get a Belkin!!! They are worthless pieces of junk. I know PLENTY of people who have had equipment connected to Belkin surge protectors fried. Also, Consumer Reports gave ALL the Belkins they tested a failing grade. I wouldn't trust a Belkin to protect my alarm clock.

Hmmm, I have a Belkin SurgeMaster II between my PC and the wall outlet. Fortunately, I only paid $10 for it at OfficeMax. It sounded like a great deal but I guess it had a fire sale price for good reason.

 

[Antoneo]

I have to recommend APC! The one dszd0g linked to is the one I have used on my old computer for three years now with absolutely no problems. I was so satisfied with it, that when I built my new computer this summer, I ordered the EXACT same one from dell. This surge protector is probably the best for the money (~$40). Never had a problem with it unlike RadioShack $9 "surge protectors".

 

[PliotronX]

I recommend the APC SurgeArrest line as well. I had a Belkin SP and its protection failed within months of first hooking it up (the indicator for protection was out and the ground light was flickering mostly off). I've had my first APC SP for over a year and it's still working fine. It was a Personal model as I didn't think I needed anymore protection, but then I retired it to the kitchen for light appliance/phone protection in favor of a Professional model with the coax cable protection for my cable modem. It's been awesome as well.

 

[Griffyn]

APC is the best I've come across hands down.

To add a bit more complication to the mix - there are many differents types of surge protectors out there.

The best is a type commonly called 'on-line UPS'. Now I know you're not wanting a UPS but hear me out.

This type of UPS is fairly expensive, but the pathway from wall socket to computer PSU is: Power goes into the UPS and straight into the battery. Then all power out from the UPS is supplied from the battery. This is not how the cheap UPS are. These are called 'off-line', and simply have the battery hanging on ready to be switched over to supply power when the UPS detects a black-out from the power source.

The biggest advantage of on-line UPSes are not only that there is 0 switch time when a black-out occurs, but they provide 100% line filtering to ensure a constant uninterrupted stream of filtered power.

 

[dszd0g]

I don't know why people are mixing up surge protection and UPSs. Most modern UPSes include surge protection, but it wasn't always that way.
APC surge protectors remove around 60dB of noise but really don't do much to keep a nice sine wave, but cheap UPSs don't either -- so I guess this is a vacuous statement

The sole responsibility of a surge protector is to stop excessive voltage or current from going through. A pure UPS on the other hand is to make sure that sufficient voltage and current goes through. Years ago you used to plug in a surge protector into the wall, then plugged the UPS into the surge protector, and then your equipment into the UPS. Some people still do this, because it is a lot cheaper to replace a surge protector than a UPS.

There are many different types of UPSs on the market, but I am sure that is discussed in another thread.

 

[JellyBaby]

This thread is rather *shocking*. I took a peek at my Belkin SurgeImposter II and noticed the protection indicator was flickering. It's not that old either.

So I'm taking dszd0g's recommendation of APC's network surgearrest to heart. It's expensive but appears to do what I always thought a basic surge protector should do and hopefully the APC will last longer than this BelCringe. Thanks.

 

[SCSIRAID]

Panamax. Website

 

[sorgaw]

MWink: you mentioned you know a lot of people who got their equipments fried on Belkin, you know any of them claimed their accident gurantee thingy??

I always wonder if anyone claimed those gurantee, hehe.

 

[snowairg]

Great info in this thread. Thanks!

I have a question about let through voltage, however. What exactly is it? If it's <40V, but it was stated that my power supply needs more than that and my PS will operate out of spec, is this still okay?

Thanks again.

 

[Biggs]

Another vote for APC.

 

[amdskip]

Originally posted by: Biggs
Another vote for APC.

 

[JellyBaby]

Just got my APC SurgeArrest Network up and running. It's built like a tank! This is definitely the ultimate surge suppressor.

 

[dszd0g]

Originally posted by: snowairg

I have a question about let through voltage, however. What exactly is it? If it's <40V, but it was stated that my power supply needs more than that and my PS will operate out of spec, is this still okay?

V_(Let-Through) = V_(Clamp) + I_(T)(R_(|| Path) + R_("ON")) + dI_(T)/dt(L_(|| Path) + L_("ON"))

That explains it, right (Especially for those who don't know what a derivative is and that in the above equation V is voltage, I is current, R is resistance, L is inductance. The || stands for parallel. Z below is the variable for impedance and is comprised of resistance and reactance (reactance is inductance and capacitance). These are the typical EE variables that we cannot escape from. And the right ones to use no matter what Physics folk say

V_(Clamp) = Initial clamp voltage of TVSS device (tested at 1mA)
I_(T) = Transient current diverted through suppressor
Z_(|| Path) = R_(|| Path) + L_(|| Path) = Impedance of wires/connections to/from parallel TVSS device (including lead-length, wire gauge, bends in the wire path).

Z_("ON") = R_("ON") + L_("ON") = Finite resistance of TVSS technology when suppressing current.

Let through voltage is affected by the type, quality, and performance voltage of the componets, the design efficiency, the energy handling capability (both peak pulse current and the Joules), and the installation of the device.

These were looked up from Joules Rating vs. Peak Current for TVSS Device, which basically talks about why one should ignore the Joule rating.

A simpler definition found at Defintion of Surge Protection Terms is:

MAXIMUM PEAK LET-THROUGH VOLTAGE
Measured at a given surge current using a given waveform, and using 300MHz bandwidth across a 50 Ohm impedance. (Note: this 50 Ohm impedance may be dc blocked [large bandwidth compared to the surge frequencies present] and 50 Ohm resistive load [termination]).

An even simpler defintion:

This is the voltage above or below the normal voltage that is allowed before it is clamped. (Obviously it really is more complex than this).

For example, let's assume we were dealing with DC (we are not), and we had a steady voltage of 120V and a 30,000V spike hit. A 40V let-through would mean that the voltage would jump up to 160V.

Some high end surge suppression companies say that you should have less than 40V of let-through to have adequate protection. Whether this is marketing or not, I will leave up to you to determine.

To answer the second part where you ask if you need more than 40V of let-through, lower not higher is better in this case. I have not seen any surge suppressor (even in the really expensive area) that does better than 40V. You have to move to an AVR UPS to get better. However, as I did state even the 40V let-through runs your power supply out of spec. A very good reason to move to an AVR UPS.