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What size power supply do I need

J

JeremiahFrog

Junior Member
I currently have a Quad Core Q6600, 8GB DDR2 RAM, 8800 GTS 640MB (PCI-E), 2 DVD Burners (SATA), single SATA HDD (Possible upgrade to a 2nd), TV Tuner Card (PCI-E), Aircard (PCI).

I use both DVI slots on the 8800 GTS to power Dual 24" LCDs.

The PSU I had in it went out to lunch, and locally what I am finding for PSU options are the basic low end stuff I know wouldn't work, a few mid range such as BFGR550WGXPSU from BFG, or Antec Earthworks 650 EA650, or Thermaltake 550 W0134RU, or it jumps to the 850 range.

My old one was an OCZ 700W. I am not sure I actually needed the 700W or if I built it with excess power at the time for expandability. The computer is reaching the end of its upgraded life, other than possibly adding another HDD, I really don't plan on upgrading it further, next upgrade will likely be a clean slate build.

From my research so far it appears the Thermaltake is overpriced/underperformer, and the BFG is rated at peak not continious. Would the Antec Earthworks fit the bill?

Any guidance would be appreciated. Thanks
 
Originally posted by: HOOfan 1
Originally posted by: JeremiahFrog
Looking at getting the OCZ 700W StealthXStream Power Supply from Newegg.com http://www.newegg.com/Product/...x?Item=N82E16817341019 does this look like a good PSU?
Click to expand...

The Earthwatts 650W is a much better PSU than the OCZ StealthXstream

and cheaper before rebate if you jump on it by tomorrow $80 shipped when you use promo code by 5/28
Click to expand...

Was going to say the same! The Antec is a better PSU to have and at that price, you'd better jump on it!!
 
No more than a 450 to 500 watt power supply. I can't believe how many people overestimate power supplies now. Finally been able to see how much my gaming system takes and it is only 240 to 250 watts during boot up. When gaming it only goes up to 350 to 360 watts.

I thought I was using way more than that but at least I know the truth now. It is not a low end system either. If you would like to know the specs I would be more than happy to post them.

 
Originally posted by: pcslookout
No more than a 450 to 500 watt power supply. I can't believe how many people overestimate power supplies now. Finally been able to see how much my gaming system takes and it is only 240 to 250 watts during boot up. When gaming it only goes up to 350 to 360 watts.
Click to expand...

Are you using a Kill-A-Watt or UPS to measure your wattage usage? If so, disregard it. Kill-A-Watts have been shown to be very inaccurate when used with PSUs with APFC, which a majority of quality PSUs these days have.
 
Originally posted by: dangman4ever
Originally posted by: pcslookout
No more than a 450 to 500 watt power supply. I can't believe how many people overestimate power supplies now. Finally been able to see how much my gaming system takes and it is only 240 to 250 watts during boot up. When gaming it only goes up to 350 to 360 watts.
Click to expand...

Are you using a Kill-A-Watt or UPS to measure your wattage usage? If so, disregard it. Kill-A-Watts have been shown to be very inaccurate when used with PSUs with APFC, which a majority of quality PSUs these days have.
Click to expand...

UPS why ?
 
From the PSU Editor (Paul Johnson) over at HardOCP:
Yes and a quick search would turn up this topic a million times over. Here is the recap:

1) APFC can fool Kill-A-Watts into giving you abnormally low readings (some times giving better than 100% efficiency)

2) Power supplies derate with temperature anywhere from 2w/c above a nominal rated at value to 10w/c.

3) Kill-A-Watt's and most power meters sample too slowly to catch transient loads (the Transient load from our tests is 117w and is COMPLETELY missed by Kill-A-Watts).

4) Power supplies last longer if you stay in the 40% to 60% range of their output.

5) power supplies are quieter if you stay in the 40% to 60% range of their output.

6) Power supplies are cooler if you stay in the 40% to 60% range of their output.

The power meters in UPS software are just as bad. You have to spend some change before you get anywhere near an accurate power meter when your PSU has APFC.
Click to expand...

So your system might be drawing more power than what the UPS is showing.
 
Originally posted by: dangman4ever
From the PSU Editor (Paul Johnson) over at HardOCP:
Yes and a quick search would turn up this topic a million times over. Here is the recap:

1) APFC can fool Kill-A-Watts into giving you abnormally low readings (some times giving better than 100% efficiency)

2) Power supplies derate with temperature anywhere from 2w/c above a nominal rated at value to 10w/c.

3) Kill-A-Watt's and most power meters sample too slowly to catch transient loads (the Transient load from our tests is 117w and is COMPLETELY missed by Kill-A-Watts).

4) Power supplies last longer if you stay in the 40% to 60% range of their output.

5) power supplies are quieter if you stay in the 40% to 60% range of their output.

6) Power supplies are cooler if you stay in the 40% to 60% range of their output.

The power meters in UPS software are just as bad. You have to spend some change before you get anywhere near an accurate power meter when your PSU has APFC.
Click to expand...

So your system might be drawing more power than what the UPS is showing.
Click to expand...

I am not using the UPS software to get a reading though.
 
Originally posted by: pcslookout

I am not using the UPS software to get a reading though.
Click to expand...

Then where did you obtain the numbers you gave for power used by your computer?

dangman asked and you said UPS...if that is the case, then you are using UPS software.....
 
Originally posted by: HOOfan 1
Originally posted by: pcslookout

I am not using the UPS software to get a reading though.
Click to expand...

Then where did you obtain the numbers you gave for power used by your computer?

dangman asked and you said UPS...if that is the case, then you are using UPS software.....
Click to expand...

I am not using the UPS software though on my pc.

If it is so wrong then why do they give you the number and if it is not right couldn't a consumer blow out their UPS by overpowering it thinking they have more left then they really do ?
 
Yes, but the UPS has to have some sort of program to calculate the power draw....i.e. software.

The readouts can be inaccurate mostly with APFC PSUs, not all PSUs have APFC. As to why they give you the reading if it might not be accurate, I don't know, e-mail the UPS company. Why do programs give you a readout of the different voltages when they are not accurate? I can't answer that either, but that is just the way it is.
 
Originally posted by: HOOfan 1
Yes, but the UPS has to have some sort of program to calculate the power draw....i.e. software.

The readouts can be inaccurate mostly with APFC PSUs, not all PSUs have APFC. As to why they give you the reading if it might not be accurate, I don't know, e-mail the UPS company. Why do programs give you a readout of the different voltages when they are not accurate? I can't answer that either, but that is just the way it is.
Click to expand...

I am going to find out if my PSU has APFC. Then contact the UPS company and see if the watts it detects are correct. Really curious about this whole issue.
 
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