exdeath
Lifer
- Jan 29, 2004
- 13,679
- 10
- 81
Only true enthusiasts go cat-less...:whiste:
Besides, a few WOT passes should get the turbo hot enough to burn any extra fuel.
WOT there will be fuel burning well beyond the turbo on a properly tuned car.
Only true enthusiasts go cat-less...:whiste:
Besides, a few WOT passes should get the turbo hot enough to burn any extra fuel.
He's talking about the wastegate, not the diverter/blow-off valve.
The wastegate diferts exhaust gas away from the hotside under full-throttle conditions to prevent overboost.
The diverter valve (aka blow-off valve) vents excess manifold pressure to prevent the turbine from stalling when there's a sudden lift of throttle.
Jlee: I would run the dump tube back into the exhaust somewhere downstream of the hotside but before the catalysts. That will keep you EPA compliant. An open dump lets exhaust bypass the catalytic converters and can get you into trouble if you ever have to smog the car (I know you don't have to now in NH, but you might move someday). Besides, the power difference is ridiculously small and while I'm certainly no tree-hugger, it just seems silly to bypass the cat for even a small bit of the exhaust considering how effective they are at reducing pollution.
ZV
Where do you live where you can get away with this on a DD? I'd be scared to do this on my car.
at least in VW's, the diverter valve actually recirculates the overboost, rather than venting in (BOV)
951 does the same. Still, the fundamental purpose of the two types is the same. Both vent excess manifold pressure to prevent compressor surge/stall.
Really the the choice has more to do with whether the AFM or MAF is upstream or downstream of the compressor. If the MAF/AFM is after the compressor (or if you're using a speed-density or MAP system), you can safely use a BOV that vents to atmosphere. If your AFM/MAF is before the compressor, however, you need to run a diverter valve, otherwise you're venting air after it's been metered and causing a transient rich condition that's bad for the engine which can foul plugs or even destroy the catalytic converter over a long enough period of time.
ZV
That sounds like a good excuse to do a gen 3 swap (speed-density).![]()
One thing to think about, wastegates can leak a little and during long drives of little boost (say highway) they can actually draw atmosphere (cavitation effect? can't recall the name) in to the system and melt the cat due to the exhaust being to lean. I personally don't like the noise (and smell at times) and preferred to plumb it back to the exhaust system.
Recirculate the waste gate but install a 3"+ electric cutout on the down pipe, the you can have both loud and quiet whenever you want
I have a TD06 20G & 38mm Tial wastegate that's going on my car - I'm trying to decide between running the dump tube into the downpipe ($150) or going open dump ($20ish).
If I send it through the exhaust, it'll probably sound about like it does now. If I run an external dump tube ('screamer pipe'), it'll sound more like this - (go to 1:05).
I love the sound but I'm afraid it will not only draw attention unnecessarily, but it may also get old after a while...
The dump tube will also provide you extra warmth in case your in-cabin heater isn't enough.
