What router to get?

[strep3241]

Currently I am using a Linksys WRT54GS and it's not fast enough for our internet connection. When hooked up directly to the modem, get download speeds around 300mbps. Going through the current router, I only get around 90mbps download speed.

Would any wireless n router do the job? Looked at a few on newegg.com and some say open source, dual band, what does all that mean? Also is there one brand that seems to be better than others. In the past I have always had good luck out of linksys routers. Is that still a good option to go with?

 

[Kartajan]

go here:
https://www.smallnetbuilder.com/tools/charts/router/view

 

[BarkingGhostar]

Are you saying your Internet service is 300 Mbps and going through the Linksys WRT54GS is it 90? The 54GS is only Fast Ethernet so 100 Mbps is about it. Now, as for recommendations on a different router ..., why 'n' and not something like an 'ac' model?

 

[mxnerd]

If you gaming a lot then buy a gaming router.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Support/dp/B00F0DD0I6

Open source usually mean you can flash the router with non vendor provided firmware, like DD-WRT or Shibby Tomato firmware.

3rd party firmware constantly gets updates and can be unstable. Flashing 3rd party firmware can brick your router if not careful. Not recommended if you are not courageous enough.

Good gaming routers' firmware usually already provide most features you need.

 

[JackMDS]

Since the Linksys WRT54GS, Linksys Corp changed hand two times (Cisco and Belkin),.

I.e., Names have nothing to do with tangible Technology,

Sub $100 - https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Arch...qid=1488666651&sr=1-2&keywords=tp+link+router

Otherwise - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FB45SI4/ref=psdc_300189_t2_B01LXL1AR8

 

[strep3241]

Are you saying your Internet service is 300 Mbps and going through the Linksys WRT54GS is it 90? The 54GS is only Fast Ethernet so 100 Mbps is about it. Now, as for recommendations on a different router ..., why 'n' and not something like an 'ac' model?

Doing a speedtest, I would get anywhere between 200-300 hooked up directly to modem. I am not to familiar with networking and router specs.

Forgot to mention that I would need to be able to pick the signal up from this router about 200ft away in another building. With my current router, I have to use a wireless repeater to be able to get the signal inside the building. It has tin siding and roof so I am sure that affects the signal alot.

 

[mxnerd]

So layout is like Modem -- WRT54GS -----------(200 ft) ---------- wireless repeater ---wireless--- your PC?

what's repeater's brand, model & speed?

 

[strep3241]

Let me explain the layout. Simple version is 1 pc to modem, ethernet cable from modem to router, then router to 2nd pc upstairs, wireless repeater picking up signal 200ft away from router.

Now most of the year, the 2nd pc can be hooked directly to modem. We run a business few months out of the year, maybe more eventually, in the building 200ft away and need the router mainly to get internet to that building. For those few months, the 2nd pc will be hooked up to a router.

 

[kater1]

Going through a repeater will make a big difference on speed depending on the repeater. Just as signal strength makes a difference on speed.

What speed do you get hooked to the router wireless in the same room as the router? 100% signal and not using repeater

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[strep3241]

Going through a repeater will make a big difference on speed depending on the repeater. Just as signal strength makes a difference on speed.

What speed do you get hooked to the router wireless in the same room as the router? 100% signal and not using repeater

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

I run a wired connection to the 2nd pc from the router. I just thought about the repeater slowing down the speed in the other building

 

[mxnerd]

Anyway, if your cable or fiber subscription speed is 300Mbps, your existing Linksys WRT54GS is only 100Mbps on both WAN & LAN ports, wired. You need gigabit ports on both side to take advantage of remaining bandwidth.

Get a good gigabit AC Wi-Fi router for the long run. N speed is already a bit outdated.

If you need to pick up the signal from another building that's 200ft away and have PC there, you need an extra pair of something like this to create point to point connection.

Ubiquiti NanoStation loco M2
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HXT8FFI/ref=psdc_1194486_t2_B00HXT8K4O

or loco M5
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-NanoStation-loco-M5-Wireless/dp/B00HXT8FPS

 

[JackMDS]

Repeater cut the signal into half.

If the repeater is actually in on the wall of the second building it would be much better to use a Wireless Client Bridge and feed the Signal from the bridge via wire to the PC, or and to an Access Point if you also want Wireless service in the second building..

That said, all of it depends on the exact physical setting of the enviroments. Words are Not the components that make Technology working.

Most p[people know that if you want a nice suit that fit you, you need to measure/try the suit on. You you can not try a suit on some else, and then assume that it will fit you.

The way most people on Networking forums approach question and answers is like asking to fit a suit on some else for yourself.

 

[VirtualLarry]

Most p[people know that if you want a nice suit that fit you, you need to measure/try the suit on. You you can not try a suit on some else, and then assume that it will fit you.

The way most people on Networking forums approach question and answers is like asking to fit a suit on some else for yourself.

 

[strep3241]

Should have mentioned this earlier but in the other building, the internet is not being picked up by another pc. It's mainly being used by a credit card machine which I run a ethernet cable from repeater to credit card machine. Occasionally, may have a laptop or a smartphone that would need wireless internet but not all the time. With the repeater I was using, was able to pick up the signal wireless with a smartphone anywhere inside the building, but the signal strength was not at 100%.

The building is in direct line of sight from the house, no trees or any types of obstructions. I have the repeater attached on the corner of the building closest to the house.

I will look into these suggestions. Ty for the help so far

 

[mxnerd]

So you does already have a wireless repeater (with a wired ethernet port), but you never clearly describe the whole picture and it kind of confuses me.

You can buy a gigabit WiFi router to replace WRT54GS, keep existing repeater if you don't want to spend the money to buy Ubiquiti point to point solution. Then uplink one of the LAN (not WAN) port to repeater's LAN port. disable WRT54GS DHCP server, and use WRT54GS in 2nd building as access point. You can also buy a new router, use it as access point to replace WRT54GS.

Since you never mention repeater's brand & model, I assume it's 802.11g and top WiFi speed is 54Mbps, but it's 200ft away so I also assume the top speed will be a lot less than that. All devices in 2nd building will be affected by that unless you upgrade everything.

 

[Burner27]

I have an Asus RT-AC68u for sale cheap in the 'for sale' forum. It'll be exactly what you need.

 

[Ranulf]

The quick easy answer is, buy a new router and just connect your repeater (or a new one matching the new routers speed) to it. More than likely, your setup will be faster and more stable if not the best it could be. For that you're looking at running network cable or mounting an antenna to the building and running the wire inside to the repeater/AccessPoint. The 54G's are a classic but old old old.

 

[Puffnstuff]

I just ordered an Asus RT-AC88U from Jet for $249 shipped with discounts to replace a failed netgear r7500 x4 which has failed for a second time under warranty. I like the 88u because it will allow me to have two isp's connected just in case the primary, Comcast, should go down it will automatically switch to AT&T VDSL and keep me connected.

 

[VirtualLarry]

Yeah, I've got an AC68R (same HW as AC68U) running Shibby Tomato 138-MultiWAN, with both a Comcast and a FIOS connection in a weighted round-robin load-balancing arrangement. I was thinking about dropping the FIOS, because I'm qualified for the $10/mo Comcast, but ... I decided that I like the 6x speed of the FIOS 50/50 (really, 60/60) connection.

 

[Puffnstuff]

Yeah, I've got an AC68R (same HW as AC68U) running Shibby Tomato 138-MultiWAN, with both a Comcast and a FIOS connection in a weighted round-robin load-balancing arrangement. I was thinking about dropping the FIOS, because I'm qualified for the $10/mo Comcast, but ... I decided that I like the 6x speed of the FIOS 50/50 (really, 60/60) connection.

I really want an AT&T Gigapower connection and when I move next time I hope that I live in an area where its available.

 

[zinfamous]

Yeah, I've got an AC68R (same HW as AC68U) running Shibby Tomato 138-MultiWAN, with both a Comcast and a FIOS connection in a weighted round-robin load-balancing arrangement. I was thinking about dropping the FIOS, because I'm qualified for the $10/mo Comcast, but ... I decided that I like the 6x speed of the FIOS 50/50 (really, 60/60) connection.

sorry to hijack this thread with a semi-unrelated question, but I'm considering getting a new FIOS connection installed, and according to the online order info, you must have the Verizon Quantum Gateway or whatever router? Is this a new thing with all newer connections, or is it a bogus piece of info? I guess I'm wondering how you are using an ASUS router with a FIOS connection. Is it a grandfathered service? I was actually going to have a FIOS install 2 years ago, but it really wasn't a better deal than my current Comcast at that time--but this Verizon router was not a requirement then.

...secondary question would be for users that have this router and are familiar with it...why is this a requirement? some proprietary, sketchy contract with Verizon that you must sign that allots some 20% of your bandwidth to their "Free!" public WiFi access, like comcast does with your router?

 

[Puffnstuff]

sorry to hijack this thread with a semi-unrelated question, but I'm considering getting a new FIOS connection installed, and according to the online order info, you must have the Verizon Quantum Gateway or whatever router? Is this a new thing with all newer connections, or is it a bogus piece of info? I guess I'm wondering how you are using an ASUS router with a FIOS connection. Is it a grandfathered service? I was actually going to have a FIOS install 2 years ago, but it really wasn't a better deal than my current Comcast at that time--but this Verizon router was not a requirement then.

...secondary question would be for users that have this router and are familiar with it...why is this a requirement? some proprietary, sketchy contract with Verizon that you must sign that allots some 20% of your bandwidth to their "Free!" public WiFi access, like comcast does with your router?

Looks like that quantum gateway is their proprietary modem/router much in the vein that AT&T does with their service to get your monthly equipment rental fees.. When I looked at their requirements page it would seem that all of the modems they offer are combination units. Can you even purchase a separate fios modem only and use the router of your choosing?

 

[zinfamous]

Looks like that quantum gateway is their proprietary modem/router much in the vein that AT&T does with their service to get your monthly equipment rental fees.. When I looked at their requirements page it would seem that all of the modems they offer are combination units. Can you even purchase a separate fios modem only and use the router of your choosing?

I've been looking, but I can't find a stand-alone modem that would work with FIOS--I'm not familiar with the interface. I am told that a typical cable modem will not work (this gateway has a coax port on the back, though), and their non-FIOS DSL modems will not work, afaik. There is an option to turn the device into a bridge in order to use your own router if you wish, but I only found a FAQ on how to do this with an older DSL modem from Verizon.

...so, I'm pretty much confused. I told them I have my own equipment (was planning to get the Asus router, as I thought the big thing that Verizon installs on your wall was the actual modem; I mean...wtf is it? ), but they will bring a Gateway anyway and charge me if need be. I might buy a used one through Amazon because at least it will save 50 bucks on Verizon's cost. It's a 1750 and not a 1900 like the Asus (I have no idea what this means). Plus...I'm only getting the 50/50 package and no TV, so I shouldn't need gigabit anyway, right?

 

[VirtualLarry]

I can chime in here. Verizon "forces" you to use (rent, or buy) their "Quantum Gateway Router", pretty-much purely as a money-making scheme, and probably to make it easier for their techs to troubleshoot.

If you want, you CAN use your own router, IF you are provisioned for ethernet out of the ONT (the box on the wall). There is no "modem", like cable or DSL. Just the ONT, which connects back to VZ's fiber-optic network, and has coax (MOCA, not cable-TV-compatible coax), and ethernet outputs. Generally, it's one or the other for internet service, depending on how you are provisioned.

Look up the DSLReports Verizon FIOS FAQ, they have all the info that you should need there.

Just be aware, that if you call in for troubleshooting, they won't help you if you're using your own equipment. You need to re-attach the VZ router before calling in for help.

Edit: The good news is, new installs are by default provisioned for ethernet, I believe. So just order service (internet-only, no TV), and pay to rent the Quantum Gateway for a month, then when you get installed, you disconnect it, and return the equipment, after connecting your own. But then, you're on your own for tech-support.

 

[zinfamous]

ah, thanks^ that's what I was planning to do. Went ahead and purchased a Quantum Gateway from Amazon re-seller anyway. It likely won't arrive in time, but after a first month $10 rental of, essentially, 1 or 2 days, it would still represent a $40 savings after I return their box.

...so if I understand you correctly, with new installs, it is essentially what I thought before--I only need a wireless router (so, the Asus that you mentioned earlier), as the ONT is basically "the modem." I'm wondering if it is worthwhile to eventually get the Asus and keep the Quantum Gateway for support reasons?

I guess I'll just see if this works for me. Main install will be in the basement, and I was planning to run a cable up to the main floor for the router (WiFi for TV and TV boxes, laptop, phone, etc), and then run another cable from the router up to the top floor where my desktop will be. So, I don't really need crazy WiFi speeds and signal for gaming purposes because I've only ever trusted LAN connections anyway. ...unless I am as out of date as I assume I am and simply have no idea how good things have gotten with this "ac" whatsit that might as well be sorcery to me?

Including the serpentine basement, there's about 2300sq ft of space, but most of the necessary coverage space is vertical (cape cod); but it's also an old place with some serious plaster walls.