What needs to be to an Auto trans. to handle more power?

[EightySix Four]

I'm debating throwing a few $$$ at my car and putting in a new cam and pretty much everything that goes along with that (rods, valve springs, rockers, need new headers, the works) but I'm wondering what I need to do to my transmission to take it.

It's a 2000 Corvette coupe (don't shoot me for an automatic, the price was too good to pass). I am concerned about the automatic handling a choppier idle (gotta love a good american V8 "lope").

For reference the vette uses a 4L60E (I think) transmission.


Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.

 

[Apex]

A few good shops handling this tranny:

http://www.gearstartransmission.com/

http://www.transmissioncenter.net/4L60E.htm

http://finishlinetrans.com/store/index.php?cPath=1_22

http://www.phoenixtrans.com/

http://www.rock-ontransmissions.com/products.htm

 

[EightySix Four]

Thanks for the links to the shops, but may I ask, what exactly it is they do to them to reinforce it. I've read on quite a few sites when looking at different cams they say "not recommended for use with an automatic transmission." Why is that and what can be done to change it? In the end would it just be better/cheaper to swap it out for a manual transmission?

 

[Pacfanweb]

They don't recommend you use the cam with an auto unless you have a stall converter in it. It won't idle in gear without one.

 

[Apex]

Different transmissions require diferent things at different power levels. Sometimes it's just the servos. Other times, it's hardened gears, etc.

As Pacfanweb said, you should definitely pick up a good stall converter for it too.

 

[Gillbot]

Originally posted by: crazySOB297
Thanks for the links to the shops, but may I ask, what exactly it is they do to them to reinforce it. I've read on quite a few sites when looking at different cams they say "not recommended for use with an automatic transmission." Why is that and what can be done to change it? In the end would it just be better/cheaper to swap it out for a manual transmission?

They usually say this because most people baindaid the tuning of the car by raising the idle. I have a rather aggressive cam in my LS1 and it was fine on the stock converter. It didn't yield the best performance but it did work.

I would recomment matching the converter to the camshaft you decide to get. Any decent transmission shop can make a recommendation based on your goals and mods.

You can also check out www.converter.cc as they have a lot of great info. As for transmissions, i'd recommend www.rpmtransmissions.com as they have quite a few units handling some SERIOUS power here locally.

Originally posted by: Pacfanweb
They don't recommend you use the cam with an auto unless you have a stall converter in it. It won't idle in gear without one.

It will run on a stock converter but it may not be desireable.

As for the transmission itself, the most upgraded parts are usually the bands and the input planetary assembly. Basically parts you can't install yourself unless you have transmission rebuild know how.

With that being said, unless you plan on torchering it with 500+ horsepower the stock trans will live for quite a while with a simple upgraded camshaft. The 4L60E is a decent transmission and can handle upwards of 450lf/ft of torque for a while if properly cared for.

 

[EightySix Four]

Thanks for the info.

If it was to "go out" under the new load (doubt it, like you said good trans, but it does have 67k miles on it) is it simply a rebuild or a full replacement?

Is there any good indicators of the current health of the transmission before I do this not expecting to have to pay for the transmission for a while?

 

[Gillbot]

Check the fluid, look at the color and smell it. If it looks or smells burnt or has a "glitter" effect to it, that's bad. Otherwise, change the fluid, toss in a new filter, get a good transmission oil cooler or deep finned transmission oil pan and you are pretty much set. If it was getting bad, it would turn the check engine light on.

If it does "go out", it really depends on the failure as to whether or not it will be a rebuild but most likely yes. Most ones that i've seen had a large amount of internal damage yet they were still repairable. Though repairing them isn't what you may think. They usually just send you another one and ask you return your broken one as a core.

Other than that, it heavily depends on your driving style and how aggressive you get with the mods. Most people joke about my driving habits and say my throttle is digital, it's either on "through the floor" or off. Mine has survived over 10k miles so far living behind a fairly aggressive cam and MANY other parts but I have seen them let go on a completely stock car.

 

[Pacfanweb]

Originally posted by: Gillbot

Originally posted by: Pacfanweb
They don't recommend you use the cam with an auto unless you have a stall converter in it. It won't idle in gear without one.

It will run on a stock converter but it may not be desireable.

I guess we really don't know that unless we know the cam specs. I've seen some radical cams that would absolutely not idle in gear at a stop.
You're right that even if it will idle, it won't perform. A stall converter will let the engine start off in its power band.

 

[EightySix Four]

Thanks for the info guys, that about covers everything I needed to know



Now, to figure out what cam I want to use :evil:

 

[Gillbot]

Originally posted by: Pacfanweb

Originally posted by: Gillbot

Originally posted by: Pacfanweb
They don't recommend you use the cam with an auto unless you have a stall converter in it. It won't idle in gear without one.

It will run on a stock converter but it may not be desireable.

I guess we really don't know that unless we know the cam specs. I've seen some radical cams that would absolutely not idle in gear at a stop.
You're right that even if it will idle, it won't perform. A stall converter will let the engine start off in its power band.

I don't know, I'd say it depends mostly on your tuner. I've seen 240+ duration cams at .050 lift idle on a stock converter. You just need to get your VE and idle air perfect. Granted, the car ran like a turbo car because it would fall on it's face from a stop, but after 3500 rpm or so, it would SCREAM!