What is with used Mustang GT (4.6) prices?

[jlee]

But what about the other factors like wear protection, the amount that gets pumped, lifespan of the pump, how quickly oil gets into bearings, etc?

Lifespan of the pump is irrelevant if the engine has inadequate oil pressure and dies, isn't it?

 

[Fern]

BTW I noticed the V6 4.0L uses 5W-30. If it was really just for CAFE purposes, wouldn't Ford have switched taht engine to 5W-20 also? Especially since most Mustangs are V6? Hmmm.... maybe there is some difference in tolerances, or valves, or something. But maybe the V6 would get better protection with 5W-40

See post 7 here:

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...tang-gt-recommended-synthetic-oil-weight.html

Apparently, Ford continued recommending 5-30 for mustangs that were shipped overseas (no CAFE standards to deal with)

Fern

 

[Throckmorton]

See post 7 here:

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...tang-gt-recommended-synthetic-oil-weight.html

Apparently, Ford continued recommending 5-30 for mustangs that were shipped overseas (no CAFE standards to deal with)

Fern

Do we really know that they're the same engines? Same pumps and valve timing systems and whatnot?

The Mustang was exported to Canada and Mexico right? Why hasn't anybody posted about how their Mexican Mustang calls for 5W-30?

 

[Throckmorton]

2. The FRD (Ford Racing Development) side has 'officially' recommended 5-30 for those with mods/racing.

Forgot about this one-- I did see on one of those forums that Shelby says to use 5W-30, but they apparently replace the bearings with different ones. FRD says 5W-30 for an engine with stock parts for racing?


Of course I don't race my car (yet) but I do drive it hard. More protection is always better IMO, as long as it has no downsides.

 

[Throckmorton]

Sweet! Just found out the clutch pack LSD came standard on the GT! Not even my Jeeps had limited slips

 

[Throckmorton]

OK here we go.. a Venezuelan guy (they sell them there??) says his car came with two manuals, the American and Mexican versions, and one says 5W-20 and one says 5W-30 http://www.modularfords.com/threads/110592-5w20-or-5w30-poll

 

[Jeffg010]

Nice stripes. Are those OEM?

No I order them off the net. I can't remember who I used. It has been like 4 years ago.

 

[Throckmorton]

Check it out, I got the black magnetic thing for between the taillights. Easy to install but it fits really snugly around the "GT" fake gas cap

 

[JoLLyRoGer]

I like that blacked out look.. Thought about just getting mine painted that way (or doing the vinyl thing) since I'm not a big fan of magnet-anything stuck on my car.

Looks good though! Black on yellow is always a winner.

On another note... that "Venezuelan Guy" you mentioned... That's Lito a.k.a. "The Pony Whisperer". He may well be the best Mustang tuner on the entire planet. LOTS of people who are "in the know" have gone out of their way to get a tune done by him. One guy on s197forum went so far as to rent out a local speed shop's dyno for an entire weekend, AND provided Lito with an all expenses paid round trip to fly him in and have him do the tuning.

He's also did the install on the only Coyote 5.0 equipped 05-09 style S197 I know of that has all of the stock telemetry working correctly with that engine.

Other's have tried it (Matt-D comes to mind) with some degree of success, but not one transplant I've seen went as nicely as Lito's. I'd take his word on Mustangs as solid gold any day...

 

[exdeath]

I doubt you're experiencing any problems due to the solid axle. IRS cars jolt and skip around too when the pavement sucks. Especially performance cars with fat rear sway bars.

 

[Throckmorton]

I doubt you're experiencing any problems due to the solid axle. IRS cars jolt and skip around too when the pavement sucks. Especially performance cars with fat rear sway bars.

It's a different jolting and skipping, you can feel that it's a solid axle. It's like the tires get confused being cambered in different directions as each tire hits the bumps. The front end is stable on the same surfaces. On small bumps the car feels solid though

 

[Throckmorton]

I like that blacked out look.. Thought about just getting mine painted that way (or doing the vinyl thing) since I'm not a big fan of magnet-anything stuck on my car.

Looks good though! Black on yellow is always a winner.

On another note... that "Venezuelan Guy" you mentioned... That's Lito a.k.a. "The Pony Whisperer". He may well be the best Mustang tuner on the entire planet. LOTS of people who are "in the know" have gone out of their way to get a tune done by him. One guy on s197forum went so far as to rent out a local speed shop's dyno for an entire weekend, AND provided Lito with an all expenses paid round trip to fly him in and have him do the tuning.

He's also did the install on the only Coyote 5.0 equipped 05-09 style S197 I know of that has all of the stock telemetry working correctly with that engine.

Other's have tried it (Matt-D comes to mind) with some degree of success, but not one transplant I've seen went as nicely as Lito's. I'd take his word on Mustangs as solid gold any day...

Wow! I definitely trust him and will use 5W-30.

The magnetic thing works pretty well. At first one of the corners didn't sit flush, but after a few days it settled and now looks perfect. I don't like vinyl because it's hard to get it on perfectly flat and without bubbles.
I also want to black out the grill pillars, but the reviews of the product sold by American Muscle say it doesn't fit exactly, so I might as well just get some scrap vinyl striping material and cut it myself.

 

[Throckmorton]

I want to get the tint removed. It's too dark and I like being able to see at night without rolling down. The black interior is gloomy too. I'm thinking clear UV/IR blocking film on the side windows and a lighter tint on the rear. But the existing tint has been scratched by the window seals which I think means I need new ones

 

[Hecubus28]

The window seals in the 2005-2007 are hard and really does mess up window tint. You can buy the 2008+ trim and install it and you wont have this problem. Only took a few minutes per side.

 

[Throckmorton]

The window seals in the 2005-2007 are hard and really does mess up window tint. You can buy the 2008+ trim and install it and you wont have this problem. Only took a few minutes per side.

Thanks. I've been looking for that 2008+ trim but I can't find it for sale anywhere. And I hope the door panel is easier to remove than on the BMW...


BTW does the "AIRBAG" tag in the seat mean the car has side airbags? Or is that referring to the front ones?
Edit: Just realized my VIN has the H in it and not the F, which means I do have them. Sweet! Side airbags was the reason I went to check out the V6 2011 one, because they make such a big difference when you get T boned

 

[axium]

If the tag is sewn into the seat, then the seat has an airbag inside. And yes, those would be the side impact airbags.

 

[Throckmorton]

Something else I discovered that's cool... you can change the dash lighting to any combination of RGB you want. I didn't like the blue it was set to, so that's a nice surprise. Orange is the best!

 

[XavierMace]

I'm thinkning poo brown would really accent the yellow however.

 

[Hecubus28]

You will need to pick up the window seal from the Ford dealership, I think mine was 30 or 40 dollars a side.

You don't have to take the door panel off to replace the seal. There is only one screw that you really have to take out and then the door panel trim pulls back , slide the seal out and slide the new one in.

 

[exdeath]

Doesn't that cause fuel to get pumped into the cylinders though? Or does it just sit in the throttle body and evaporate?

Fuel is port injected near the heads at the base of the intake runners well after the throttle body.

You can remove the fuel pump relay/fuse if there is one. Ford likes to use something call a CCRM (constant control relay module) that stuffs some of the important EFI/fuel relays into a sealed black box which is then tucked inside a fender liner.

Best bet when you need to turn over an engine to purge the cylinders or do a compression test is leave the key off and use a remote starter switch to apply +12 directly to the starter. No spark, no fuel, no nothing.

Solvents in the cylinders aren't going to hurt a thing as long as there isn't enough to cause hydraulic lock up. I'd be more concerned with allowing it to sit and seep solvents into the oil sump.

 

[Throckmorton]

Something I don't understand about the broken spark plugs... when they break how do you NOT get pieces of the plugs in the cylinders? And then how do you get them out? I'm skeptical of a shop vac being able to extract every piece.

 

[exdeath]

Air compressor and close your eyes and look away :awe:

 

[Throckmorton]

Air compressor and close your eyes and look away :awe:

Yeah I plan to blow them out before unscrewing the remaining pieces if mine break.


Apparently my throttle body really needs cleaning, or whatever. I had two weird things happen today... I downshifted to 4th to pass on the highway and car barely accelerated, then clunked and took off. It felt like an automatic transmission downshifting itself. I guess he throttle response just had a long delay. And then a while later I made a U turn and was in 1st gear, barely accelerating, and then suddenly the car seemed to go to WOT and chirped the tires for an instant and bucked.

Edit: Sounds like the fuel pump http://m.mustangforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=160509

 

[leper84]

Yeah I plan to blow them out before unscrewing the remaining pieces if mine break.


Apparently my throttle body really needs cleaning, or whatever. I had two weird things happen today... I downshifted to 4th to pass on the highway and car barely accelerated, then clunked and took off. It felt like an automatic transmission downshifting itself. I guess he throttle response just had a long delay. And then a while later I made a U turn and was in 1st gear, barely accelerating, and then suddenly the car seemed to go to WOT and chirped the tires for an instant and bucked.

Edit: Sounds like the fuel pump http://m.mustangforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=160509

Just for shits and giggles try re-learning the throttle to see if it does anything. Piece of cake, pull the intake tube off and clean all the carbon out of the throttle body. While you're doing that have the battery disconnected to wipe the computers memory (you have to do this when you clean the tb or the tps will freak out). Hook everything back up, get it started and let it sit and idle until it gets to operating temp, after that I like to take it on the highway and drive the ever-loving sh*t out of it. Not sure if thats what alldata says to do but it worked for my car.....

 

[Throckmorton]

Just for shits and giggles try re-learning the throttle to see if it does anything. Piece of cake, pull the intake tube off and clean all the carbon out of the throttle body. While you're doing that have the battery disconnected to wipe the computers memory (you have to do this when you clean the tb or the tps will freak out). Hook everything back up, get it started and let it sit and idle until it gets to operating temp, after that I like to take it on the highway and drive the ever-loving sh*t out of it. Not sure if thats what alldata says to do but it worked for my car.....

Yeah I would have done it today but it was raining. Don't you have to decelerate from 60mph or something? Now I can't find where I read that so I don't know what gear you do it in.