What ballpark cost am I looking at to fix my A/C?

[Bird222]

Car '96 Accord

Ok my compressor just seized up which of course caused my belt to break. The car is at the dealer now getting looked at. Will the compressor failing damage any other parts? Can you just replace the clutch in it or should you just replace the whole thing? I am trying to not get completely screwed here.

 

[T2urtle]

Most cases you can just replace the clutch. Belt. Evac and recharge the AC and maybe replace the reciever/dryer. But some shops will just opt for a new compressor vs clutch.

Look up part cost online for it. Figure maybe 3 hours of labor. Most Honda have a ton of space and parts are cheap. My shot in the dark is 3hours plus parts.



TapaTalking

 

[SuperSix]

1200

 

[Insomniator]

You brought a 96 accord to the dealer?

Anyway, the AC in my 95 Camry was like... 500 or 600 with my mechanic. New compressor, condenser, refrigerant. No idea if that was a good deal, or if it compares at all to the Honda. Looks bootleg like parts on the internet are ~300.

 

[Zenmervolt]

If the compressor is seized, changing only the clutch isn't going to make a damn bit of difference because the problem is in the compressor itself, not the pulley clutch.

If it's truly seized, then you need a new (or at least rebuilt) compressor. And since you have to open the system to replace it, you'll need a new receiver/drier too if you want to do things properly. Also, generally when a compressor seizes, it's because you've somehow lost the oil, so there is very likely a leak in the system somewhere that will also have to be fixed.

ZV

 

[T2urtle]

^ the leak is normally at the compressor or receiver/dryer, least the ones i play with.

if it was a civic, i would say it would be extremely cheap because all the ricers remove their AC system to shave off 25lbs or w/e the weight is. 65% of the used civics i've seen have the AC disabled or removed. I know they are different motors so you can use the same compressor.

 

[Bird222]

Thanks for the input guys. Keep it coming.

 

[SJP0tato]

In addition to Zenmervolt's reply, sometimes if the contamination from the failed compressor is bad enough a full system flush to clean out any debris/crud from the failed compressor is necessary, which can add to the cost.

 

[Zenmervolt]

^ the leak is normally at the compressor or receiver/dryer, least the ones i play with.

True, it's very often the compressor shaft seal, but there's still the time and labor to validate that. A good shop will still check for leaks to make sure that the problem isn't somewhere else and they're going to charge for that labor.

Personally, I wouldn't want a used compressor that someone of indeterminate mechanical ability had ripped off of their car god knows how long ago and that has been sitting in a dusty garage without having been cleaned or even having the ports caped off ever since. Either a new or rebuilt compressor is the way to go IMO.

ZV

 

[thomsbrain]

Zemmervolt and SJP0tato pretty much said it. You'll need a new compressor and system flush at the least, plus whatever part was leaking. Unfortunately A/C is often a can of worms. Good luck, keep us posted.

 

[Bird222]

Well, I hoped I would have to explain all this but I guess I need to. For probably 2+ years, every few months my A/C compressor would give this horrible screech on startup. I would just turn off the A/C and it would stop. Then I would turn the A/C fan switch back on and it would be fine. So I figured the compressor is probably going out. About 4 months ago my defrost wasn't working. So I take my car to the dealer, they tell me that one of my hoses was leaking and needed replacing. I ask about the compressor because of the noise I had been hearing but they tell me that is fine. Ok, so they replace the hose and fill with freon and the defrost is working better but to me still not quite up to par. Now Monday, I hear load screeching and I smell burning rubber and see smoke coming from my hood. I figure the A/C compressor has finally seized up and broke the belt. I take my car to the dealer. They have had it 2 days (all yesterday and today) before telling me a diagnosis. They tell me some crap about my alternator being good, but something being wrong with the alt pulley being too sticky (I have an aftermarket alt) and it somehow has torn up my belt and they want me to send my alt to some shop. I really feel like I am dealing with some idiots here. First this alt has been on my car for almost two years with no problems. Second they put another belt on the car to test to see what was wrong but I would think they wouldn't want to risk destroying another belt and could test the pulley another way but whatever. I don't know if they are trying to say anything is wrong but the compressor because they fear I will complain about them telling me it was ok or what??? I told the service representative (not the actual mechanic) I would talk to her in the morning.

Here is where I am at.

1. The service rep seems really nice so I don't want to yell at her.
2. I don't want to tell them how to do their jobs, but damn.

I plan on talking to the actual tech tomorrow. How can I question him in a way that lets him know I am not buying the 'sticky alt pulley' bullshit and to check my compressor for functionality, but at the same time not come off like a jerk telling them how to do their jobs? I am 99.999999% sure that the A/C pulley has seized up because of what I described above and I have had it happen before on a Honda civic I had years ago. This is really frustrating and I admit I will want them to work with me on costs for the work that will have to be done because I don't think they really truly fixed my problem originally. Any advice is appreciated.

 

[Bird222]

Well they finally came back and said I needed a compressor and some other part(s) (can't remember what she said sorry) to 'properly warranty' it. The total is almost $1400. I am trying to see if they can come down on that price some.

 

[Zenmervolt]

Well they finally came back and said I needed a compressor and some other part(s) (can't remember what she said sorry) to 'properly warranty' it. The total is almost $1400. I am trying to see if they can come down on that price some.

Frankly, that sounds about right for an A/C refit/rebuild. It's not usually cheap.

ZV

 

[Insomniator]

Frankly, that sounds about right for an A/C refit/rebuild. It's not usually cheap.

ZV

He would be nuts to pay close to that much. Get a quote from someone thats not trying to **** you in the ass.

There aren't that many 'other parts' to the AC -- and you can get the compressor online for less than 300. The car is probably barely worth $1400 in the first place.

 

[SuperSix]

That's the going rate for such an AC repair. They wanted $1100.00 to do so on the wife's Integra. I ended up doing it myself for less than half, using Rock Auto for the parts.

 

[CraigRT]

Take it somewhere else and get the same work done.
Call an auto wreckers, they might be able to do it cheap with used parts if budget is #1.

 

[Zenmervolt]

He would be nuts to pay close to that much. Get a quote from someone thats not trying to **** you in the ass.

There aren't that many 'other parts' to the AC -- and you can get the compressor online for less than 300. The car is probably barely worth $1400 in the first place.

$1400 to install a new compressor, a new receiver/drier (this is absolutely necessary for a proper repair), and a good system flush/leak-check is in line in most places.

Sure, you can half-ass the repair with pick-and-pull parts or questionable rebuilds, neglecting necessary parts (like the receiver/drier), and omitting a proper evacuation (you need to pull a vacuum on the system for several hours) and it will work for a year or two, but that's not a good way to handle things and all it's doing is guaranteeing that something will break again relatively soon.

Doing things right isn't cheap. If the OP wants to do the work himself, have no warranty, and realistically be looking at having the car in the air for a couple of days (a novice isn't going to get it done in one afternoon), that's fine. But it's going to be faster and much more convenient to just let a professional handle the job.

$300 for the compressor, ~$80 for a receiver/drier, if there's a leak in a hose, that's another $100 easy (depends on the hose, but many are expensive). That's $500 before you get into the cost of refrigerant and recovery and labor. $100/hour for labor is the going rate in my market right now, so add in refrigerant, shop fees, labor rates, etc and $1,400 for a new compressor, new receiver/drier, and a leak test/flush/refill isn't outrageous.

ZV

 

[Bird222]

Ok, I am so confused as to what to do here. I've got until the end of the day to decide. I had my car towed to another mechanic from the dealer because they wanted to much money to fix. But the new mechanic says so far the compressor is checking out, however as I stated before I have had awful sounds coming from that thing off and on and my A/C isn't as cold as my other Accord (granted it could be some other component causing that). I went by and he started the car up a couple of times and everything seems to be ok. He wants to keep trying it the rest of the day to see if it acts up. I don't know whether I should bite the bullet and pay to have the compressor and related parts replaced or just wait until it finally goes out but something made the belt burn up and snap. What do you guys think?

 

[slag]

I think this is the reason I learned to do my own auto work. I replaced the compressor on my F150 4 years ago, evacuated the system, replaced the receiver/drier, the whole 9 yards, and then filled the system up. Cost me around $150.00 iirc

 

[Bird222]

I think this is the reason I learned to do my own auto work. I replaced the compressor on my F150 4 years ago, evacuated the system, replaced the receiver/drier, the whole 9 yards, and then filled the system up. Cost me around $150.00 iirc

How do you evacuate the system?

 

[Evadman]

How do you evacuate the system?

Vacuum pump

 

[Zenmervolt]

I think this is the reason I learned to do my own auto work. I replaced the compressor on my F150 4 years ago, evacuated the system, replaced the receiver/drier, the whole 9 yards, and then filled the system up. Cost me around $150.00 iirc

Did you appropriately recover the old refrigerant using an EPA-approved reclamation system? If you simply evacuated the old system to atmosphere you're technically liable for many thousands of dollars in EPA fines (IIRC it's $50,000 but I didn't go back just now to check).

Just pointing out that there's potentially a lot more going on here than your average shade tree mechanic thinks about.

Also, $150 would only buy half a compressor for a Honda. He's looking at $400 to $500 in parts alone.

ZV

 

[Ferzerp]

Did you appropriately recover the old refrigerant using an EPA-approved reclamation system? If you simply evacuated the old system to atmosphere you're technically liable for many thousands of dollars in EPA fines (IIRC it's $50,000 but I didn't go back just now to check).

Just pointing out that there's potentially a lot more going on here than your average shade tree mechanic thinks about.

Also, $150 would only buy half a compressor for a Honda. He's looking at $400 to $500 in parts alone.

ZV

Both times I've had A/C fail, the failure itself evacuated all the refrigerant for me. Both times were under $300 fixes for me. Both repairs lasted until I replaced each of those cars.

 

[Zenmervolt]

Both times I've had A/C fail, the failure itself evacuated all the refrigerant for me. Both times were under $300 fixes for me. Both repairs lasted until I replaced each of those cars.

Firstly, "all" the refrigerant doesn't actually leak out on failure. There's still going to be residual left in the system once the pressure differential is either equalized, or reduced to a level that the failed seal can manage.

Secondly, the OP's system still has all the refrigerant in it. He's stated that, while it's noisy, it's still cooling. That means it has refrigerant in it.

While I agree that the average home mechanic isn't very likely to get nasty letters from the EPA, shops are. And as a consequence, they'll always make sure to use a recovery system because, while the EPA can't watch every guy with a wrench in his home garage, it absolutely does monitor shops. That's added cost for the shop that people who simply look at parts prices don't take into account.

Finally, it doesn't make a damn bit of difference what your past repairs cost because they aren't the same. The price online for a new, OEM Denso compressor for the OP's car is $319 and the price for a new, OEM receiver/drier (which is necessary if you open the system) is $79. It is literally impossible for the OP to replace his compressor and receiver/drier for "under $300" (the number you threw out). He's $400 in with only the main parts. If there's a leak anywhere else or if he has to flush the system (which he should), then there's extra money on top of that. And then there's the cost of a vacuum pump (realistically the OP probably doesn't have one just sitting around).

ZV

 

[BUTCH1]

AC systems always seem to croak on older cars long before the engine/tranny dies, for some reason or other they are not robustly designed ( or it's the hard work the compressor must do). My solution is simple, I use my AC only when I REALLY need it...