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What a major F#CK UP!!

J

jzodda

Senior member
Well I was trying to reseat my Swiftech MC370-3 Peltier, and I tightened the socket screw a bit too much and the socket broke. 🙁

The little notch came off the socket on one side. I have crazy glued it back and when it totally dries I will try to gently put it all back in. If it goes in without breaking off I will silicone it tight.

Man I am such an idiot-I am never satisfied. Screwing around to try and get it 1-2C cooler and now I might pay a big price

well wish me luck
 
Yes I do 🙂

Well it appears that the crazy glue is holding well. I just hope it can still take some pressure or its a new MB for me I guess
 
If socket is on the board, you should have no problem bring it back to either your local shop or RMA to the manufacture. I have old Asus mb back when I have 486, my local shop have no problem taking it back and replace one with newer one. And o'course I have to pay for the difference. Good luck!!
 
I might have a problem returing it as I used a Silicone seal all around the socket and in the socket. I suppose I could clean it all off, but I might not ever be able to get enough off for them to think I was not tampering with the MB.
 
CRV

I do not think I will be able to ever get it to seal right. As I start to tighten the screws it comes loose a little again. What idea do you have?

Thanks

Joe
 
Well I went out and bought some epoxy as thats stronger than the crazy glue that I had laying around. I am going to try and glue it with that one and see if that works 🙁 This has been a very bad day for me
 
jzodda
Are you handy?
This isn't the easiest thing to do and even harder to describe without pictures! 🙂
I saw an article on the net about 6 months ago (I can't find it right now..looking...) and it was how a guy was using a Peltier I believe and the tab had broken off the socket.
What he did (and this supposes the area around the tab is more or less free from Capacitors ect.) is to lay down a 3" X 2" thick layer of 5 minute epoxy (if you have a larger area use it) and then let it dry hard.
You don't need to worry about any traces shorting as he mentioned the epoxy is non-conductive.
After you have a nice thick hard layer directly under the broken tab and extending a little ways around the M.B., take your nut for the Peltier attachment and cut a small piece of steel that is about half the size of the clear M.B. area and attach it to the nut with a cutdown machine screw so it only goes half way into the nut.
Now you have a nut with a small steel plate attached and half the threads still available to lock the Peltier down. Mix up some more 5 minute epoxy and put a layer on the dried epoxy area of the M.B. and also coat the bottom of the steel plate and put the bolt and plate in position where the tab use to be.
Layer on the epoxy over the steel plate (don't fill the nut, leave a long bolt in it in the right position), let it dry and repeat about 5 times until you build up a good thick layer, then let it dry overnight.
When you attach the peltier you may need to build up washers on the bolt to get the right length as you only have half the threads available in the nut.
Remember the Peltier doesn't have to be tight...just snug it down and according to the article the guy found it was nice and strong.
Any questions let me know.
 
also *equally handiness requiring*, I have fixed similar situations by using a paperclip as a brace (stop snickering). Cut a couple of very small pieces to be inserted through the two pieces that have broken (short enough to not short anything out). Prepare similarly as to when you glued it. You need to heat up the pieces of paperclip and make holes in the plastic where you want to brace. After the holes are where they need to be apply adhesive material as you did when it "kinda" held, Then slide the broken piece into place over the paperclip braces sticking out. Kind of a juggling act to accomplish but when properly done it is MUCH stronger than just glue. And don't beat yourself up for being a perfectionist trying to get every last drop of performance, that's how alot of great inventors and inventions are born.
 
jzodda

The article is different but the pictures I remember...so it was probably another site I read that ripped this article.At least you have pictures now!

hungrypete has an interesting idea also.
 
The paperclip idea is interesting. I cant really do the thing you are talking about CRV though, as this is not a sloket, but the Socket 370 on the ASUS CUSL2 motherboard. The other tip on Overclockers.com about getting an aluminum clip from a screen door and filing it into a socket notch is interesting and maybe I can do that one.

I want to try to find something before I give up and have blown $160 mb. Maybe if I clean it off good I can get an RMA

 
I just took a look at a CUSL2 and your right it's a tight fit with the ram on one side and those caps close on the other.
What you could do is spend a few hours cleaning it up perfectly and take it in for an RMA or call them.
If they refuse for whatever reason then try the pin idea or the screendoor hook one.
 
Clean it up really good, don't worry about glue on the peices, i doubt they will care about that. As long as there isn't glue on the PCB and there is no signs of the pelt setup. They should RMA it just fine.
 
Gladiator, you fvcking little troll. Get the fvck out of here. It is now my sole fvcking goal to see you Banned. You don't come in here and fvcking trash peoples threads.


Ahhhh.... That felt good... Sorry.. Continue on. 🙂

I broke a tab off a SS7 board once.. I just RMA'd it.. I think that's your best choice, unless you can find a real good secure way of attaching the heatsink.

Hey, have you thought about using some dabs of Thermal Epoxy on the corners, with normal heatsink grease in the middle? Of course, it would be permanent, but.. at least your heatsink would stay on. 🙂
 
Who's the troll again? Anyway, I agree with GM, unless you're real handy and experienced with this kind of stuff, don't make it worse. RMA it, hopefully they will give you a new one. Good luck.
 
Huh. Poca, You need to go look at some of GM's posts lately. He was not trying to be helpful. He was being an ass.

 
Eli,

Yeah I was thinking about using epoxy to just seal it for good but the only problem with the MC370-3 is that the copper shim is only attached to the TEC with thermal compound. If I just epoxy the shim to the CPU, only the shim will be sealed. I guess I can make a mixture of epoxy and thermal compound to seal the TEC to the shim first, but I dont know.

I think I will just clean it up and RMA, thats my safest bet. I would try to fashion a lug from a screen door latch like it says at overclockers.com but if it fails I doubt I would get an rma with that permanently attached to the socket. So its RMA from atacom.com for me. I hear they are not very good with rma's but I will at least try.


BTW- Thanks everybody for all the helpful advice! (all except that jerk Gladiator) I dont know what I would do without this place 🙂
 
Just a quick question: If I do decide to shape a new socket lug from aluminum and then epoxy it down where the lug broke off would I have to worry about it shorting the MB out? If so any way to insulate it?

thanks

Joe
 
Put down a few thick layers of 5 minute epoxy, letting it dry between coats, before you place the new tab.
 
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