Weedwacker won't start

[C1]

Most likely it is a fuel problem, but check first that the exhaust port is clear.
Sometimes there is a fuel filter employed & to access it requires removal of the tank.

The carburetors typically employ a flexible diaphragm that becomes stiff or disintegrates with age so the carb doesnt work well. As such, do not attempt to clean the carb with anything other than gasoline as cleaners/solvents (particularly carburetor cleaners) can damage the diaphragm. If you must use a cleaner, then use Berrymans B-12 cleaner.

Pulling and cleaning the carb, replacing the diaphragm, filter (if any) and any other soft parts is the correct solution, but from my experience, it is time consuming, a dirty job and still may not result in a 100% solution. Dont be surprised if you have to pull it all down & reassemble it over a few times before it can be made to work well.

 

[slag]

*sigh* just use starting fluid, thats what its for.
The main thing thats the most neglected with all small motors is the magnet attached to the pully assembly, it needs to be sanded down and properly adjusted. usually the distance is a piece of paper folded in half stuck inbetween the 2 magnets and theres your distance.

Oh dear.. do not follow this guy's advice.

 

[Squisher]

It's probably one of the things already mentioned, but another issue could be the spark arrester (usually nothing more than a screen) in the muffler can get clogged over time too.

 

[SearchMaster]

Most likely it is a fuel problem, but check first that the exhaust port is clear.
Sometimes there is a fuel filter employed & to access it requires removal of the tank.

The carburetors typically employ a flexible diaphragm that becomes stiff or disintegrates with age so the carb doesnt work well. As such, do not attempt to clean the carb with anything other than gasoline as cleaners/solvents (particularly carburetor cleaners) can damage the diaphragm. If you must use a cleaner, then use Berrymans B-12 cleaner.

Pulling and cleaning the carb, replacing the diaphragm, filter (if any) and any other soft parts is the correct solution, but from my experience, it is time consuming, a dirty job and still may not result in a 100% solution. Dont be surprised if you have to pull it all down & reassemble it over a few times before it can be made to work well.

I have a trimmer exhibiting the EXACT same behavior as the OP's and the problem is the diaphragm. I have another one so I haven't tried looking for a replacement diaphragm (well I did a cursory check at Home Depot but of course they didn't have it). I'll probably fix it this Spring because it allows all the attachments and I'll probably want to use the edger.

 

[hanoverphist]

FWIW a typical rule of thumb out here in the boonies is a 3-month shelf life for gasoline in a can. After that, have a bonfire.

ya, same here... im just forgetful and lazy usually. i forgot to put conditioner in the can this time, that was my downfall.

 

[HeXen]

You should NOT try to start a 2-stroke engine with starting fluid. That oil you add to your gasoline is the stuff that lubricates the engine. By running it with starter fluid you're running your engine without lubrication.

Starting fluid has lubricants in it...just read the label!! it even says so on the front of the freaking can. at least the brands i've seen anyways. Thats part of what it does, the hexane and ether content is for high flamability and the others are lubricants.

 

[Vetterin]

Just move up north and you will have all winter to work on it.

 

[HeXen]

plenty of other tips here
http://www.familyhandyman.com/DIY-P...e-Repair/two-cycle-small-engine-start-up-tips
oh look at that, even mentions starting fluid...hmm, imagine that.