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water in the monitor

kawlin

Junior Member
long story short, water was spilled in my monitor while it was on. I unplugged it, let it dry for a day and now it doesn't turn on.

Anyone have any idea what I can do to check what went wrong or any other tips?

thanks
colin
 
Anyone have any idea what I can do to check what went wrong or any other tips?
There is nothing end-user servicable inside a monitor. If, after it dries, it won't start chances are very good it is done for. It's probably time for a new monitor. What went wrong is water and electronics are not friends. They are bitter enemies with water, many times, making electronics dead. Tip follows logically.

\Dan
 
I'd just recommend disposing of it and picking up a new/used monitor. You can get a decent used one for $30-50 and a new 17-19" for $100-150.
 
Might just be a fuse.

Was it just WATER or something else in it (soda, coffee, orange juice, etc..)?

If it was just water, chances are good thats all it may be.
 
"Just water" will kill a monitor just as well as soda or juice etc. And, as I mentioned before, there are no user-servicalbe components in a monitor. Unless you know exactly what you are doing, I wouldn't even attemp something like this. For one thing, monitors pack leathal amounts of voltage, voltage that can remain even after they are powered off. Maybe it's just my silly way of thinking, but I'd rather risk paying some scratch for a new monitor rather than killing myself (literally) over one. My personal belief regarding "heavy-duty" electronics is that if it doesn't turn on after it has dried, out it goes. Just my two cents. Take it for what it's worth...

\Dan
 
Hiyo,
Thanks for your input.

I was unaware that "What went wrong is water and electronics are not friends". Certainly one of the most useful comments.

(Sorry for being offended by pretension)

Of course, you did also answer that user service-ablitiy in monitors is incredibly limited. Thank you.

LilithTech:
It was just water. And perhaps some dirt... (came out of the tray beneath a plant).
Do you know if there is any way to test the fuse, and if so and also if that is the problem, I will, no doubt, have to open the casing to replace it (read: risk imminent death). Have you tried such a fix before?

Thanks again,

Colin
 
DO NOT OPEN THE CASE!!

One wrong move and you are DEAD. There is no coming back from that. You might be able to pay a technician to have a look at the fuse but to be honest it's probably just cheaper to buy a new one.

To put into context just how dangerous opening a monitor can be, I do support for a living and we are no longer allowed to repair monitors as the risk of death is too great and I'm trained in discharging them properly. Your life is not worth £150 bite the bullet and buy a new one

Mnementh
 
What went wrong is water and electronics are not friends. They are bitter enemies with water, many times, making electronics dead

actually its not the water thats bad...its all the minerals and impurities in the water...ie thats why distilled water is not conductive and salt water is a huge conducter.
 
Originally posted by: Need4Speed
What went wrong is water and electronics are not friends. They are bitter enemies with water, many times, making electronics dead

actually its not the water thats bad...its all the minerals and impurities in the water...ie thats why distilled water is not conductive and salt water is a huge conducter.


LOL now thats just being picky 😉
 
One day is not enough time. sometimes a week or two, and things come back. Just a little moisture might remain to keep the short going.
What would it hurt anyway😉
 
Your monitor is dead. CRTs act as large batteries and store lots of electricity. Even if you unplugged your monitor and dried it out it was probably shocked within the first 15min of water being in it.

-Por
 
So I understand that I haven't the hope of going inside my monitor, ever. But what exactly would have shorted? I grasp the basic idea of the cathode ray tube, so which components are eternally whacked by a short and why? Would a short in the very rear of the monitor effect the CRT itself or if i just wet a transformer, is it possible that it would dry out? I ask purely out of curiosity.
Thanks much
 
PS i've posted this question on another forum and recieved a few responses urging me to wait at least 24 hours, and then take the case off and blow dry the components...

I'm just throwing that out there because I'm sure someone's going to yell about it 😀
 
kawlin wrote:
Do you know if there is any way to test the fuse, and if so and also if that is the problem, I will, no doubt, have to open the casing to replace it (read: risk imminent death). Have you tried such a fix before?


Fix them all the time. Have had countless go through water damage and fixed with relative ease.
The fuse will be located right near where the power comes into the board (power supply section).
Sometimes it is obvious (they turn dark), sometimes it is a SLOW BLOW Fuse (white colored).
To test, leave the power disconnected, and remove the fuse. If you have a multimeter, you can
check with that if you cannot visibilly tell whether it is bad or substitute with another similarly rated one.

If the fuse is good, there is a good chance that it shorted the HOT (High Output Transistor).

What Make & Model is the monitor?
 
It's a 19" Hitachi Superscan 776 (CM776U-511). It's discontinued and I can't find a manual for it anywhere. I don't think I'm very good at looking for manuals though :>
 
If you are not comfortable working on the electronics, then by all means don't.
(the manual will not help in this instance)

The monitor is definately worth a look at repairing.

You will not get anything near the quality in the $70-$100 range.
 
I'm quite comfortable with opening it up and checking out the inside, now that I have read more about it and spoken to more people about it. I would just prefer to have a clear guide to follow. Know of anything?
 
So I got anxious and opened it up and pulled the fuse out. It's all white... does that indicate it's shot?
If I get another fuse with the same rating, should i be able to plug that into the fuse holding widget without fear that something will blow up?
danke
 
Alright. I hooked the fuse up to a continuity tester and its not letting any current through. Where should I go to get a new one? The local hardware stores and radioshack have the least helpful staffs I've ever seen, so I'm gona have to know very specifically what I want if i want to pick it up there. Any good internet shoppes?
 
The rating of the FUSE is located on the METAL BAND
of the fuse itself (i.e. 2.5A, 5A-120V etc....).

It is of the SLOW BLOW variety.
 
sniff. so i replaced the fuse. and it immediately blew out.
it got some 4 amp 250 volt GMA type slow-blow fuses from radioshack.
they best matched the etchings on the fuse i pulled out.
whats the next thing i should check for? or should i just clean it more thoroughly and try again?
 
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