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Water cooling tubing

M

Messudieh

Member
Basically, my current setup has both of these problems. Fortunately I am only running an athlon 64 winchester @ default voltages and an X800XL. Both are water cooled.

I'm looking for some good tubing, or a way to reinforce it so that neither of these things happen when I get my new case and redo my water cooling setup. I'm looking for thoughts on:

*Types of tubing - This looked pretty promising actually. Or this and the reinforcement might look cool in a UV reactive case, like I'm planning on getting.

*extra reinforcement - if I go with something a little less heavy duty, should I put some sort of wrap outside, or a spring type thing inside? Any major success/failure stories?

Those are the big questions right now. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
 
Although those tubes are cheap, it looks like you have to buy them in huge quantities, so watch out.

Swiftech's Coolsleeves work very well with any tubing, but they are kinda expensive.
 
The nylon mesh tubing, from what I understand, is for applications that have to manage static electricity. That isn't going to be an issue in computer-based water-cooling. Wire-reinforced tubing MAY be a good idea if you're planning on cutting some really intense turns. If you want good tube and aren't concerned with anything really advanced, Tygon 3603 will do you just fine. Another poster here, NINaudio, is using a more advanced version of Tygon due to some clouding problems he was having. You might drop him a PM and see what his thoughts are.
 
I have never set-up a WC PC but i have done alot of automotive work.

An internal spring might be reactive to the coolent and would be restrictive.

Since you linked non-UV reactive hose that does not seem to be a concern. If it is,a covering of UV sleeving would work.

Gates Durion silicone coolent hose is highly flexable,collapse/kink free, water premeation is
never a problem(surface bleed) and comes in several colors(white,green,aqua,blue).
It can be ordered in three foot lengths. It is not inexpensive. It lasts nearly forever.

It's one failure is resistance to abrasion. It can not rest against a vibrating edge of anything.

Galvanized
 
Originally posted by: Mrvile
Although those tubes are cheap, it looks like you have to buy them in huge quantities, so watch out.

Swiftech's Coolsleeves work very well with any tubing, but they are kinda expensive.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice. The tubing seems to be sold in 10 foot lengths, so the wire reinforced tubing that's $1 a section should only be about $10 plus probably shipping. I doubt I'd be out more than about $20 if this tube isn't what I'm looking for.

I like the description of the tubing too "handles both positive and negative pressure". The 1/2" ID tubing has an outer diameter of of .736," so it's almost a quarter inch thick. I figure that will by itself make for robust piece of tubing. Add the wire reinforcement that's supposed to make it even stronger and it looks like I have a good thing going here. Anyone else think of anything I'm missing?

I'm going to be making a setup that is essentially turn free. By that I mean I'm going to be using joints instead of looping the tubing around it long turns, so I probably won't have to worry about kinking for it anyway. I guess I'm just paranoid though.

Here's the thread on what I'm looking to do with the case I'm getting. Thanks everyone for your input. I will probably take a look at the wraps and such too. I already have a little, and I might use them outside for decoration more than anything else.
 
I use Thermaltake WC stuff, and they supply their tubes with springs running through them, to prevent them kinking. However, I have a feeling that's only because they're 10mm tubes (I plan to mess with them, make them 1/2 inch) all the bigger tubing I've seen has been quite tough, not impossible to kink, bend or manipulate, but certainly not in danger of kinking on its own.

Using the joints to avoid coiling the tubing should certainly remove the huge majority of kinking, not that it's really going to happen unless you're a carelss idiot about installing it.

Looking at your signature, I assume you're a transformers fan?
 
Originally posted by: Nirach
I use Thermaltake WC stuff, and they supply their tubes with springs running through them, to prevent them kinking. However, I have a feeling that's only because they're 10mm tubes (I plan to mess with them, make them 1/2 inch) all the bigger tubing I've seen has been quite tough, not impossible to kink, bend or manipulate, but certainly not in danger of kinking on its own.

Using the joints to avoid coiling the tubing should certainly remove the huge majority of kinking, not that it's really going to happen unless you're a carelss idiot about installing it.

Looking at your signature, I assume you're a transformers fan?
Click to expand...


Yes sir. That and I couldn't think of a better symbol to put on the side of my case. And I'm going to be getting a new case very soon. If anyone can suggest any ideas for new symbols/icons for a giant window on the side of my case, let me know.
 
Originally posted by: GalvanizedYankee
An internal spring might be reactive to the coolent and would be restrictive.
Click to expand...

It depends what the spring is made of, beyond that many coolant mixtures are heavy in anti-corrosives. Since most blocks and rads are cooper alloy now it really isn't an issue so much as a hold-over from the old days. At any rate the tubing listed by the OP has the coil embedded in the wall of the tubing.

 
Originally posted by: HardWarrior
Originally posted by: GalvanizedYankee
An internal spring might be reactive to the coolent and would be restrictive.
Click to expand...

It depends what the spring is made of, beyond that many coolant mixtures are heavy in anti-corrosives. Since most blocks and rads are cooper alloy now it really isn't an issue so much as a hold-over from the old days. At any rate the tubing listed by the OP has the coil embedded in the wall of the tubing.
Click to expand...



I only said that because most springs are nekid steel or galvanized steel. Stainless springs do exist but are hard to come by.
If i needed a spring to stop a kink, a streched stainless steel Heli-Coil is as near as the tool box.
If you've never worked with that Gates hose reffered to above, it's like a over cooked noodle. it's super flexable. The colors are vibrant,it is expensive.
The flow rates you guys work with, i doubt suction collapse is an issue.

I'm intrested in water cooling but not near ready for it. My intent is just to add to the mix
not confuse or be "Mr. Know-it-All."

Galvanized
 
Originally posted by: GalvanizedYankee
I'm intrested in water cooling but not near ready for it. My intent is just to add to the mix
not confuse or be "Mr. Know-it-All."
Click to expand...

I'm fine with you GY.

 
Use Clearflex 60 if on a budget, Tygon if not.

Buy it from McMaster-Carr. You can order online, you can specify exact small quantities and they ship really fast.
 
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