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Water Cooling or Thermalright Air Cooling

H

hawtfrank

Junior Member
So I was thinking of getting the following form Thermalright:

Thermalright IFX-14 CPU Cooler $76.56
2xThermalright HR-03 GTX VGA Cooler $56.51
1x HR-05 SLI/IFX NB Cooler $26.21
2x HR-07 Memory Cooler $20.49
1x HR-07 Type-L Memory Cooler $28.04

Totaling $284.81

Or Should I go for Water Cooling which I have never done and don't know much about?

My Goal is to cool my Memory(3x2GB DDR3), GPUs(GTX SLI), Northbridge, and LGA 1366.
 
Originally posted by: WoodButcher
You'll spend twice that on water. The majority of folks using water will use a fan to cool the memory.
Click to expand...

Depends on how frugal you are. They don't call it gillbot price for nothing. 😉

If you search the FS/FT classifieds and are patient for deals, You can get a good parts for a water loop at reasonable prices.

CPU - $20-35 shipped (Apogee GT, Dtek Fuzion, etc.)
GFX - $20-35 shipped (MCW60)
Pump - $40-75 shipped (MCP355/MCP655)
Rad - $25-100 shipped (MCR220/MCR320, etc.)
Tubing - $0.45/ft new (Masterkleer 7/16")
Clamps - $2 for 10 pack at Lowes
Fittings - $2.50/ea new (BP 1/2" fatboys)
 
Originally posted by: Gillbot
Originally posted by: WoodButcher
You'll spend twice that on water. The majority of folks using water will use a fan to cool the memory.
Click to expand...

Depends on how frugal you are. They don't call it gillbot price for nothing. 😉

If you search the FS/FT classifieds and are patient for deals, You can get a good parts for a water loop at reasonable prices.

CPU - $20-35 shipped (Apogee GT, Dtek Fuzion, etc.)
GFX - $20-35 shipped (MCW60)
Pump - $40-75 shipped (MCP355/MCP655)
Rad - $25-100 shipped (MCR220/MCR320, etc.)
Tubing - $0.45/ft new (Masterkleer 7/16")
Clamps - $2 for 10 pack at Lowes
Fittings - $2.50/ea new (BP 1/2" fatboys)
Click to expand...

Please note, if you get the MCP355, you'll be required to buy a top for it, such as the XSPC top, for $20. The standard top only has 3/8" fittings, which it's better to buy a new top than switch a system to 3/8" tubing.
 
Originally posted by: PCTC2
Originally posted by: Gillbot
Originally posted by: WoodButcher
You'll spend twice that on water. The majority of folks using water will use a fan to cool the memory.
Click to expand...

Depends on how frugal you are. They don't call it gillbot price for nothing. 😉

If you search the FS/FT classifieds and are patient for deals, You can get a good parts for a water loop at reasonable prices.

CPU - $20-35 shipped (Apogee GT, Dtek Fuzion, etc.)
GFX - $20-35 shipped (MCW60)
Pump - $40-75 shipped (MCP355/MCP655)
Rad - $25-100 shipped (MCR220/MCR320, etc.)
Tubing - $0.45/ft new (Masterkleer 7/16")
Clamps - $2 for 10 pack at Lowes
Fittings - $2.50/ea new (BP 1/2" fatboys)
Click to expand...

Please note, if you get the MCP355, you'll be required to buy a top for it, such as the XSPC top, for $20. The standard top only has 3/8" fittings, which it's better to buy a new top than switch a system to 3/8" tubing.
Click to expand...

3/8" will work fine also.
 
the ifx-14 is one of the only sinks i would ever use on my personal bench stations.
 
Originally posted by: PCTC2
Originally posted by: Gillbot
Originally posted by: WoodButcher
You'll spend twice that on water. The majority of folks using water will use a fan to cool the memory.
Click to expand...

Depends on how frugal you are. They don't call it gillbot price for nothing. 😉

If you search the FS/FT classifieds and are patient for deals, You can get a good parts for a water loop at reasonable prices.

CPU - $20-35 shipped (Apogee GT, Dtek Fuzion, etc.)
GFX - $20-35 shipped (MCW60)
Pump - $40-75 shipped (MCP355/MCP655)
Rad - $25-100 shipped (MCR220/MCR320, etc.)
Tubing - $0.45/ft new (Masterkleer 7/16")
Clamps - $2 for 10 pack at Lowes
Fittings - $2.50/ea new (BP 1/2" fatboys)
Click to expand...

Please note, if you get the MCP355, you'll be required to buy a top for it, such as the XSPC top, for $20. The standard top only has 3/8" fittings, which it's better to buy a new top than switch a system to 3/8" tubing.
Click to expand...


I prefer 3/8" tubing...doesn't consume the entire case. I'd use 1/4" if I thought I could get away with it.
 
Well, it's 7/16"ID/5/8"OD. Not that fat. And I say it's better because with 7/16" tubing on 1/2" barbs, you get a tight fit that you can get away with zip times. With 3/8" barbs and tubing, I would use regular clamps.
 
Originally posted by: PCTC2
Well, it's 7/16"ID/5/8"OD. Not that fat. And I say it's better because with 7/16" tubing on 1/2" barbs, you get a tight fit that you can get away with zip times. With 3/8" barbs and tubing, I would use regular clamps.
Click to expand...

I recommend clamps on all tubing sizes.
 
Originally posted by: Tweakin
Originally posted by: PCTC2
Originally posted by: Gillbot
Originally posted by: WoodButcher
You'll spend twice that on water. The majority of folks using water will use a fan to cool the memory.
Click to expand...

Depends on how frugal you are. They don't call it gillbot price for nothing. 😉

If you search the FS/FT classifieds and are patient for deals, You can get a good parts for a water loop at reasonable prices.

CPU - $20-35 shipped (Apogee GT, Dtek Fuzion, etc.)
GFX - $20-35 shipped (MCW60)
Pump - $40-75 shipped (MCP355/MCP655)
Rad - $25-100 shipped (MCR220/MCR320, etc.)
Tubing - $0.45/ft new (Masterkleer 7/16")
Clamps - $2 for 10 pack at Lowes
Fittings - $2.50/ea new (BP 1/2" fatboys)
Click to expand...

Please note, if you get the MCP355, you'll be required to buy a top for it, such as the XSPC top, for $20. The standard top only has 3/8" fittings, which it's better to buy a new top than switch a system to 3/8" tubing.
Click to expand...


I prefer 3/8" tubing...doesn't consume the entire case. I'd use 1/4" if I thought I could get away with it.
Click to expand...

I like the 3/8" not only for the aesthetics, I use the 1/2" fatboy barbs with the tubing stretched. The ID of the barb is very close to the ID of the tubing so there is little if any turbulence caused by the reduction or increase in dimension from barb to hose.
 
Originally posted by: WoodButcher
Originally posted by: Tweakin
Originally posted by: PCTC2
Originally posted by: Gillbot
Originally posted by: WoodButcher
You'll spend twice that on water. The majority of folks using water will use a fan to cool the memory.
Click to expand...

Depends on how frugal you are. They don't call it gillbot price for nothing. 😉

If you search the FS/FT classifieds and are patient for deals, You can get a good parts for a water loop at reasonable prices.

CPU - $20-35 shipped (Apogee GT, Dtek Fuzion, etc.)
GFX - $20-35 shipped (MCW60)
Pump - $40-75 shipped (MCP355/MCP655)
Rad - $25-100 shipped (MCR220/MCR320, etc.)
Tubing - $0.45/ft new (Masterkleer 7/16")
Clamps - $2 for 10 pack at Lowes
Fittings - $2.50/ea new (BP 1/2" fatboys)
Click to expand...

Please note, if you get the MCP355, you'll be required to buy a top for it, such as the XSPC top, for $20. The standard top only has 3/8" fittings, which it's better to buy a new top than switch a system to 3/8" tubing.
Click to expand...


I prefer 3/8" tubing...doesn't consume the entire case. I'd use 1/4" if I thought I could get away with it.
Click to expand...

I like the 3/8" not only for the aesthetics, I use the 1/2" fatboy barbs with the tubing stretched. The ID of the barb is very close to the ID of the tubing so there is little if any turbulence caused by the reduction or increase in dimension from barb to hose.
Click to expand...


Did you have to dunk the tubing in hot water first to soften it up, or did you use lube (KY, etc.), washing up liquid or a combination of these to fit the tubing on to barbs?

It's just that fitting my 7/16" ID tubing on to the 1/2" OD barbs was a PITA. It was even worse trying to take the tubing off the barbs (I cut one piece too long, so it kinked because of the bends). The tubing wasn't masterkleer, but some blue IV stuff; I can't remember who the manufacturer was.

Edit: Spelling.
 
Originally posted by: Gillbot
I would never use a lube to put tubing on. It can only add contamination to the loop IMHO.
Click to expand...

Would this matter if you use it in very small quantities and you are using additives in the loop?

I didn't with mine btw, I'm just curious if it could have a detrimental affect.
 
I use needle nose pliers and hot water to pre- stretch and then KY. I build with a fill port and a drain so when the loop is complete I can flush the system. I connect the fill port to the tap and let the hot water flow, a quick rinse with distilled after and it's good to go. First build every thing is clean so this is just insurance but 6 months or a year down the road you can use detergents or vinegar to clean the loop and being able to run large volumes of hot water through will almost certainly get it all clean.
 
Originally posted by: Gillbot
I would never use a lube to put tubing on. It can only add contamination to the loop IMHO.
Click to expand...

+1

Warming up the tubing is fine, but with the fittings out now, there is no need to stretch tubing out of shape just to get a snug and safe fit.
 
Originally posted by: daw123
Originally posted by: Gillbot
I would never use a lube to put tubing on. It can only add contamination to the loop IMHO.
Click to expand...

Would this matter if you use it in very small quantities and you are using additives in the loop?

I didn't with mine btw, I'm just curious if it could have a detrimental affect.
Click to expand...

I bolded the main part. Never means NEVER.
 
Originally posted by: Gillbot
Originally posted by: daw123
Originally posted by: Gillbot
I would never use a lube to put tubing on. It can only add contamination to the loop IMHO.
Click to expand...

Would this matter if you use it in very small quantities and you are using additives in the loop?

I didn't with mine btw, I'm just curious if it could have a detrimental affect.
Click to expand...

I bolded the main part. Never means NEVER.
Click to expand...

Sorry, skim-read your first post and didn't pick up on the never part.
 
list was old when i included the lube section.

It used to be recomended when people were dumping a ton of other additives into the loop like water wetter.

i really need to remove that part now.

 
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