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Water cooling 300-500 bux

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Originally posted by: inveterate
HD20 pump
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MD-20 and HD-20. Truly kickass pumps in every respect. 😉

Swiftech Storm
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One of the best CPU blocks around, but not for people who don't like to fiddle with their loops (needs regular cleaning), and doesn't like weird coolant mixes (constipates easily).

either (mp1 or maze 4) can't tell which one is better
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Maze 4 propably.

a dual 5" drive bay tank.
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Your loop won't suffer without a res, but I like the idea of having lots of coolant in my loop.

Thermochill 120.3,, WTF is the diff between HE120.3 and the PA120.3
Click to expand...

Minor differences in construction. The PA120.3 is slightly better in all categories.

and tubing.
Click to expand...

If you can afford it, get Tygon. I still don't get how folks can spend $500 on a CPU, and then freak at expensive tubing. 🙂

Do i need actual 3x 130CFM 120mm fans?
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There are options that will decrease noise. It depends on the rad/fans you buy and how far you want to go in manipulating your fans. A rad can be fairly quiet if you want it to be. And no, you don't HAVE to use 130CFM screamers. I use 3x120mmx38mm 80CFM fans to great effect, and there are rigs that suck a lot less and perform pretty well.

though i like the jet plane idea, i'm not sure my college roomate next year will like this noise.
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Damn, an Olympic-class overclocker and a nice guy too! :laugh:

 
Originally posted by: nealh
correct me if I am wrong but the PA120.3 works well with low cfm fans...so you may sacrifice a bit but 3 x 120mm YL should do very well with what you are overclocking

10% for the high / noisy airflow end of the fan market, and up to 40% for the low airflow / silence end of the market.
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http://www.thermochill.com/pa1203.php
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I wouldn't put TOO much stock in TC propaganda, but that's the way I remember it as well.

A question Neal: I've noticed you suggesting YL fans before. What is it about them that you like so much?

 
My 2 AMD rigs run about 45C at load, the ambient is 28C, working 38C, mobo 33C.
Since you have an AMD opty, I presume you're using it for gaming.
What are you using to check temps? I use a Digital Temp Pen
I also recommend as a guide CPU Temps
I've switched out my fans to Yate Loons, in your case 120mm
verrrry quiet and cheap. I would add one to side, for intake venting and one to top, for top exhausting.
AMDs shouldn't have a heating problem. It could be airflow restriction that could be your problem.
 
I have unfortunately over the last couple of yrs bought way too many fans..

The YL have a very acceptable noise quality for my ears(I emphasize my ears becasue everyones perception of tones,whines etc is very subjective)

I think they do a nice job of moving air at their rated noise level(and IMHO they are mopre realistic with there specs)

I own Tricool Antecs...the 120x 25 were not not pleasant and did not move more air unless max and noise was terrible, the 120x38 Tricool is quieter than Tricool 25mm but again at max speed does not seem to move 60cfm at 30dba as reported

CoolMaster 120x25..overall quiet more motor noise and move less air than YL, though they are rated close

Nexus..is great but it moves alot less air....

You can not compare cfm/noise of Panaflo M1A(85cfm) or L1A(69cfm)..which I recently bought to solve temps issue..M1A even @ 7v has awful motor noise for me, L1A @7v is not bad and I think it does a better job of air movement vs YL@12v..but is very close noise which is why the L1A is still in my case

What is also important is the Static pressue and I have no sense on how to tell this...or to get clear data on this to easily compare one fan to the next

I personally feel for me on a dual or triple Rad(of the right type) 2 or 3 YL will provide good cooling and temp which very reasonable noise(of course Nexus would be better but price/noise YL are hard to beat..Jab-Tech has the mfor $4/each..less if you buy 3 or more)

There are better fans out there for performance and maybe with undervolting even better than YL noise levels???...

I would love to get YL 140mm fan..move 67cfm @28dba(with noise equal to 120mm YL)...but no one in the use seems to sell them..and from Europe it would cost about $30/fan

My recommendations is based more on noise and good performance..than raw "horsepower"..so it is subjective thought more than anything. I hate the BS on fan specs...just pure crap

I realize many can tolerate loud, really high CFMs..wish I could for performance

But do not forget how important the case flow and radiator placement is..I found out the hard way on the P180....no matter what Antec says with the door closed..a front mounted Radiator gets choked...I wish I knew this first..I would have tried to cut 120mm x 2 holes up top

But I learned from my experience..I do like the internal lookf othe PA160..but just not the best performance wise
 
Thanks for your perspective, Neal. Look at static pressure in terms of motive force. The blades on a 38mm fan are thicker from top to bottom, applying more "bite" to the air that passes, allowing it to push/pull air through denser medium, which is why they're far superior on thick, dense rads/cores. You'd think think such a thing wouldn't make too much of a difference but it really is noticeable.
 
Originally posted by: HardWarrior
Thanks for your perspective, Neal. Look at static pressure in terms of motive force. The blades on a 38mm fan are thicker from top to bottom, applying more "bite" to the air that passes, allowing it to push/pull air through denser medium, which is why they're far superior on thick, dense rads/cores. You'd think think such a thing wouldn't make too much of a difference but it really is noticeable.
Click to expand...

Your description on Static pressure is what I had in my "mind"..just could not get it into words clearly..
on PA series rad I was under the impression..more cfm/static pressure is good..but they can perform well on lwer end of the fan spectrum as well and not giving up too much on temps

I need to go back and retry my YL @12v after my "final mods" on my P180 to see how close they perform to the Panaflo 120x38mm L1A at 7v....

One thing I think I missed and others do as well..is the case is very important..I really like the the look and silence of the P180...but I am not sure it is a good WCing case...kinda small inside

No Performance PC has modded a P180 to take a superio rad install
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/...roduct_info&cPath=262&products_id=4269

but kinda pricey at $275 and only $35 less with no rad..but you pay for there expertise...about $125-150 for them to do the mods...actually pretty fair given how long it would take me..but then I do not learn how to do it and screw it up

..and need a new case and the wife to say I told you so...
 
Originally posted by: HardWarrior
Originally posted by: inveterate
HD20 pump
Click to expand...

MD-20 and HD-20. Truly kickass pumps in every respect. 😉

Swiftech Storm
Click to expand...

One of the best CPU blocks around, but not for people who don't like to fiddle with their loops (needs regular cleaning), and doesn't like weird coolant mixes (constipates easily).

either (mp1 or maze 4) can't tell which one is better
Click to expand...

Maze 4 propably.

a dual 5" drive bay tank.
Click to expand...

Your loop won't suffer without a res, but I like the idea of having lots of coolant in my loop.

Thermochill 120.3,, WTF is the diff between HE120.3 and the PA120.3
Click to expand...

Minor differences in construction. The PA120.3 is slightly better in all categories.

and tubing.
Click to expand...

If you can afford it, get Tygon. I still don't get how folks can spend $500 on a CPU, and then freak at expensive tubing. 🙂

Do i need actual 3x 130CFM 120mm fans?
Click to expand...

There are options that will decrease noise. It depends on the rad/fans you buy and how far you want to go in manipulating your fans. A rad can be fairly quiet if you want it to be. And no, you don't HAVE to use 130CFM screamers. I use 3x120mmx38mm 80CFM fans to great effect, and there are rigs that suck a lot less and perform pretty well.

though i like the jet plane idea, i'm not sure my college roomate next year will like this noise.
Click to expand...

Damn, an Olympic-class overclocker and a nice guy too! :laugh:
Click to expand...

Thx, i've actually noticed that kids around me that RECENTLY got into building computers and such are really stuck up, they're full of opinions and really think they're something! Anyhow

so looks like everyones going with the yates,, i just bought the akasas and the new arctic cooling 120mms, BUT hey,, here goes nothing..

PA120.3 out of stock everywhere?? (do i need the shroud)

RadGrillz

Storm block

Maze 4

Tank

HD20

Tygon (is it TIE-GONE) or (Ti as in tit and _gone)

what do you guys use to cut the top of ur cases. I think dremeling would take too long on the .8mm steel.


 
so looks like everyones going with the yates,, i just bought the akasas and the new arctic cooling 120mms, BUT hey,, here goes nothing..
Click to expand...

Heard good things from others on the Akasas fans
 
Undervolt the 38mm fans, they'll be absolutely quiet and still maintain great pressure and flow.

Also, the MP-1 is better with stronger pumps.
 
Originally posted by: inveterate
Thx, i've actually noticed that kids around me that RECENTLY got into building computers and such are really stuck up, they're full of opinions and really think they're something! Anyhow
Click to expand...

:laugh:

so looks like everyones going with the yates,, i just bought the akasas and the new arctic cooling 120mms, BUT hey,, here goes nothing..
Click to expand...

Not everyone. Your choice is fine.

PA120.3 out of stock everywhere?? (do i need the shroud)
Click to expand...

You don't HAVE to use one. I didn't have enough room for a shroud in this intall, and TBH I was freaked a little. Then I saw my temps and didn't care anymore. 😉

Storm block
Click to expand...

Be ver careful with your coolant mix.

Tygon (is it TIE-GONE) or (Ti as in tit and _gone)
Click to expand...

🙂 TIE-gon

Good luck, Dude! :thumbsup:
 
hmm.. Big question, i just read on the thermochill website- where it says the PA120.3 is designed for 130CFm.. does that mean 130 x 3?? or 130cfm total. Cuz i don't know where to get a 130cfm fan.

Oh and what do you guys use for coolant, I don't need UV stuff. just cooool.
 
Just use a radiator plus a t-line to fill. It's easier and won't hamper the flow as much. Also, try to keep the tubing as short as possible (meaning map it out so that there is the least amount of tubing).

Other than that, going custom built is probably the way to go. A storm rev.2, a 120x3 rad, a gpu block (maze4), and some other stuff like tubing could easily fit in your budget.
 
Originally posted by: TrevorRC
Undervolt the 38mm fans, they'll be absolutely quiet and still maintain great pressure and flow.

Also, the MP-1 is better with stronger pumps.
Click to expand...

The Panaflo M1A is still too loud IMHO..the LIA is what I use @7v and noise is close to YL@12v...
My setup uses a PA160..so @12v L1A makes almost no temp diff..maybe 1C at full speed 7v=? cfm, 12v=68.5cfm

I wish I had considered a 120.2 rad or even 120.3(not sure how to fit that in a P180)...my deltas on dual large fft prime 95 with opty 170 is 9.5C to 10C...many with dual rad get 6C-7C delta or better..of course triple rad should be better (although) I have seen some say they too little of diffeence between dual vs triple because of the heatload was not enough to get max benefit from triple rad..but it sure offers more "futureproofing"
 
Originally posted by: wizboy11
Just use a radiator plus a t-line to fill. It's easier and won't hamper the flow as much.
Click to expand...

This is a myth. A res simply doesn't automatically hamper flow. It's one barb in, one barb out. Very much like a T-line. Using a res or a T is pretty much an equal proposition and boils down to what the user prefers. With an HD-20 I seriously doubt that tube length, within reason, is going to be an issue either. I suggest plumbing for efficiency.

 
Originally posted by: nealh
I have seen some say they too little of diffeence between dual vs triple because of the heatload was not enough to get max benefit from triple rad..but it sure offers more "futureproofing"
Click to expand...

Even when I was new I took statements like this with a big, fat grain of salt. Most of the folks who waste time bashing things are people who've never had the FRU's they're blowing off, and are feverishly trying to justify what they have out of ego. A well-blown 120.3 has system wide benefits beyond just closer-to-ambient exhaust temps.

 
If I had a choice today..after more learning..I would love to have had a nice 120.3...I would prefer as much cooler performance as possible and then as future needs go..I am covered

I just chose the "wrong" approach looking back..since my desire with WCing is quickly changing...I need a new case but I do not have an endless supply of $$$ or wife tolerance(got build some credits on this)
 
🙂 Welcome to the potentially sucky world of buying water-cooling sh1t! I wasted so much money trying to save money that it almost brings tears to my eyes. At least you have a firm idea of what you need to do next time, which is what counts in a hobby-based pursuit like water-cooling. Try not to sweat it. We all make mistakes.

If your wife is at all easy just try sucking up real hard. She'll want to keep you happy and content and sweet... and all that other wussy stuff. I'm lucky because we don't have kids, so I get to be the baby. :laugh: :thumbsup:
 
your wife is at all easy just try sucking up real hard. She'll want to keep you happy and content and sweet... and all that other wussy stuff. I'm lucky because we don't have kids, so I get to be the baby.
Click to expand...

I am not so lucky..I have a 9 yr old(love him to death)..but he is the baby, so is the dog..me I am chop liver..a paycheck
 
so about my question of the PA120.3, does it require 130cfm total as in 3x 47cfm fans or does it require 3x 130cfm fans??
 
yea thats the site that is confusing me. Optimised for Fans with an individual CFM Output of upto 130cfm, does that mean they only expect 1 fan running at 130cfm?

Either way,, i'm not sure what fans to use now. So like i guess something in the 80cfms while maintaining 35-37 dbas
 
Originally posted by: nealh
If I had a choice today..after more learning..I would love to have had a nice 120.3...I would prefer as much cooler performance as possible and then as future needs go..I am covered

I just chose the "wrong" approach looking back..since my desire with WCing is quickly changing...I need a new case but I do not have an endless supply of $$$ or wife tolerance(got build some credits on this)
Click to expand...

the 120x3 rad has tons of benifits. Its not just ment for more cooling but lower noise. You get more CMF from 3 fans on low then on 2 fans on medium. Lower voltage to fans means lower noise. The only drawback i see in a 120x3 radiator would most likely be flow restrictions and if your already running a 2 pump loop, i dont see the reason why you wouldnt do a 120x3 radiator.

Personally i run a 2x120 and it does fine on my system. However i would also have loved to stepup to a 3x120 and drop in lower voltage fans for less noise. But i dont have a noise problem at this moment so everything is fine in my perspective.
 
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