Water and Northbridge

Scatter

Senior member
Jan 11, 2006
286
4
81
My Question is this,

When the system is Idle, I get anywhere from 28C to 32C on the Northbridge
Under Dual Prime/ SP2004 Dual I see the northbridge go to 61C Shuld I be concernted I've seen it spike to 64C then drop.. Is there a reason its soo High? Could I not have enough AS5 on it or is there too much? I did like a spot no bigger then a smal rain drop not even the size of rice. Is it that I do not have a solid conection? Do I have to tighten it a bit more to really make contact.

HELP


 

Fallengod

Diamond Member
Jul 2, 2001
5,908
19
81
Damn I thought my my northbridge was hot. Mine idles around 35C these days. Stupid Epox put it right above the video card. So it sits right around the hot area of the video card. Load is probably like 37-38C. I thought mine was hot heh. Mine definitely never gets to 60C+
 

Ping to the Pong

Senior member
Dec 5, 2005
217
0
0
maybe you have a bad mount, i dont think the northbridge would ever get that hot water-cooled. Either that or maybe the motherboard readings are wrong as i noticed they can be pretty unreliable.
 

Scatter

Senior member
Jan 11, 2006
286
4
81
there is a rubber gasket under the stock fan for the northbridge does it need to be removed when installing the waterblock (danger Den Maze 4 for A8N sli)

Could this be the source of the heat build up when under load.. it jumps quickly
 

HardWarrior

Diamond Member
Jan 26, 2004
4,400
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Originally posted by: ScatterCould this be the source of the heat build up when under load.. it jumps quickly

Please list the components that comprise your water-cooler.

 

Scatter

Senior member
Jan 11, 2006
286
4
81
The items connected is this..

Big Water at 1/4 ID... Pump, Radiator, 120CM fan, Danger Den A8N sli Maze4 modified to 1/4 fitting, Koolance NV2-LI6 7800GTX cooler (One for right now) and CPU WaterBlock Stock from TT.. The CPU temp under load is 46C maybe I've seen days where it has gone 50C warm in house Under single load for the NB, it stays at 45C all day 24 hours primed @ 2.68Ghz, 1.48V, and Ram @ 2.8V

Here is the way it goes, res out, into pump, out of pump into cpu cooler, out of cpu into video, out of video, into NB, out of NB, into Radiator, out of radiator into res.

repeats cycle...

Should I put the NB first? would that then heat up the CPU?
 

HardWarrior

Diamond Member
Jan 26, 2004
4,400
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I just read a review for the Bigwater. All in all, it seems like a fine unit, but frankly, it wasn't designed for the heat dump you're asking of it. Yes, you will have temps that will be better than high-end air, but that's it. The flow characteristics of the ID you're using, plus the relatively small rad and low-powered pump will keep your loop on the warm side compared to a true, balls-to-the-wall water-cooler.

You can ameliorate the situation slightly by adding a powerful fan, but that's about it. I wouldn't worry TOO much about NB temps unless you're experiencing failures or choppy performance (you're a gamer?). As far as sequence, you're dead on. Placing the most important FRU's upstream is always advisable. As I menthioned earlier, you can try re-pasting the NB block with an eye on positive, even contact. It MAY be a bad mounting.
 

Scatter

Senior member
Jan 11, 2006
286
4
81
Answer to the first question..
I game that would be the reason for the overclocked Opteron, 2x 7800GTX from BFG, and the corsair ram. and raptor HD's but that aside, I have notice a few times that the system will suffer, Err, BSOD- w/ nv4minidump.sys and some XLS format error code.

This is not all the time but it does happen.


Well I pulled the NB cooler and checked it seems to be sitting flush as there are marks in the bottom of the cooler where the NB chip made a scratch in the surface.. anyway would you think that the AS5 is too much it covers teh entire chip well but I have heard that the stuff should be really thin barely even on teh surface what is the best solution.
 

HardWarrior

Diamond Member
Jan 26, 2004
4,400
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I asked if you were a gamer because we tend to be sensitive to hiccups and such, and your hardware notwithstanding, I had no way of knowing what you use your rig for.

What you're heard is correct. Too much TIM serves no purpose. The excess will just squeeze out and turn into just another mess to clean up.
 

Scatter

Senior member
Jan 11, 2006
286
4
81
Originally posted by: HardWarrior
I asked if you were a gamer because we tend to be sensitive to hiccups and such, and your hardware notwithstanding, I had no way of knowing what you use your rig for.

What you're heard is correct. Too much TIM serves no purpose. The excess will just squeeze out and turn into just another mess to clean up.

Well is there anything I can do or do you think that the ITE Chip is reading it incorrectly and I'm getting overly paranoid for nothing....


It took me 3 hours last night to remove the entire setup as the nut on the back of the NB waterblock fell out and I had to rip the board out to get to it I do not want to repeat that today as well. but I will if there is something worth trying.. BTW, it only happens when I run Dual Prime or SP2004 twice .... Otherwise it runs at 41C all day under 1 instance of Prime or sp2004
 

Regulator07

Senior member
Feb 15, 2005
517
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Originally posted by: Scatter
there is a rubber gasket under the stock fan for the northbridge does it need to be removed when installing the waterblock (danger Den Maze 4 for A8N sli)

Could this be the source of the heat build up when under load.. it jumps quickly

i would suggest getting rid of the rubber gasket, perhaps the block is not really mounted flush with the NB and there is a pocket of air, which may be why the temp spikes like you said. I definitely think your temps are way too hot for water cooling, i have just the stock fan on my a8n-sli dlx and it never breaks like 37-39 C, and highest i have seen it was 41C when it was running prime all day.
 

mindwreck

Golden Member
May 25, 2003
1,585
1
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seems like a bad mount or really f-ed up temp sensor.

and like HW said, the bigwater just wasn't made for that kind of heatload. Put a heatsink on it and it will be happy
 

Scatter

Senior member
Jan 11, 2006
286
4
81
Cant do a heatsink as I run SLI and there will no longer be any fans in my system

I'm overclocking and Cant see running on air alone as it get hot anyway..

could be cocked and may not be sitting flat so I will loosen and retighten up let you all know and I'll see
 

stevty2889

Diamond Member
Dec 13, 2003
7,036
8
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The heat being pumped away from your cpu is going to your video card, and then the average heat from both is being pumped through your chipset waterblock. The thermaltake is not likely pumping enough fluid fast enough, to effectivly cool all of those devices. Your CPU temps are as high as my overclocked X2 on the stock heatsink. Your video card temps aren't bad. You northbridge temps are too high as well. The thermaltake isn't bad for cooling one thing, but when I put my video card in the loop with my thermaltake, my GPU temps actualy got worse, just like your northbridge temps are doing.

EDIT: From my experience I also recomend replacing the water block that comes with the bigwater with something a little more solid. The acrylic around the fittings cracked on mine, and it leaked all over my video card.
 

Scatter

Senior member
Jan 11, 2006
286
4
81
Here Is what I was think of doing,
Adding new Pump Highflow Danger den- And adding a radiator.

Putting it in this order..

Res to Pump, to First radiator, to Chipset, to second radiator to cpu to video cards to res.
repeat.

may add hd coolers later.... If I do I'll add yet another radiator..

3 rads should be enough to cool.. right?
 

racinjimy

Member
Jun 3, 2001
73
0
0
scatter,

start over, for your needs you need a higher end custom WC setup

e-bay is for selling stuff (i wanted to say $hit) like the big water

keep it simple, one good rad is good enough, get either a heatercore (cheap) or a 120X2 or 120X3 rad, a good pump, and a new CPU block

return the maze back to 1/2" and you will be much happier, use a T-line or a res if you must