Washing your car

[xSkyDrAx]

What do you normally use to wash your car in terms of making it clean and not damaging the paint while you're at it?

This is a new practice for me because when I was driving my corolla I wasn't concerned with minor details and was fine with it as long as it wasn't covered in bird crap.

With my new car I want to do things right from the start and I'm not sure where to start. I have a few ideas but I don't want to do anything that might end up in a mass of swirls and scratches.

So far I'm looking into:

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Class...6757233&sr=8-2

and

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3002...6757280&sr=8-1

and possibly a clay bar though I'm not sure what's a good brand.

Also any recommended methods when going about the washing?

 

[JulesMaximus]

Get a decent car wash soap from your local auto parts store along with a car wash mitt. Do not use dish soap as this strips off the wax.

Get car wet
Dip mitt in soapy water
Wipe over car working on small areas at a time, dipping the mitt in the soapy water to keep it clean and soapy
Rinse off area you just washed
Dry the entire car using a quality chamois

Detailing your car is more involved and involves washing and drying the car completely followed by applying a paint cleaner then a glaze then a coat of wax.

I like Meguiars products. I've been using them exclusively for over 20 years now.

The two you linked are excellent choices.

 

[JulesMaximus]

A complete detail should be done at least twice a year.

 

[NutBucket]

There's no way any wax lasts 6 months, period. A sealant will easily last 6 months to a year...but really should be applied with a machine.

 

[IGemini]

Seconded on the Meguilars, what you have linked is good.

Maybe a grime cleaner if your hub caps are particularly spoke-like, though a vinegar-water solution is supposed to work for that, too.

 

[JulesMaximus]

There's no way any wax lasts 6 months, period. A sealant will easily last 6 months to a year...but really should be applied with a machine.

:whiste: That's why I said "at least" twice a year. Figure that to be the bare minimum. Personally, I'd recommend a detail quarterly but even I haven't been keeping up with that level of care for my car.

Hell, many people never wax their cars.

 

[rh71]

I've used a lot of wash applicators over the years, and the car wash mitt (I bought a Meguiar's) is still the best way to go about it. I also have their car wash 2.0 stuff, but don't feel that's too important. I really should wax it again soon... 4.5 years I've had this car and only waxed once - having to worry about the sun is the biggest problem... don't have the patience to wait and watch the sky.

One other thing I want to recommend if you have stubborn marks is the liquid clay bar. I got it for $10 at Walmart and it removes my exhaust stains from my aero kit with a simple scrub - no effort, where scrubbing soap like a madman doesn't get the job done. It has also removed minor scratches from the paint... doesn't fill the pit, but it removes the discoloration completely so it's not noticeable on white at all.

My biggest issue is brake dust on the front wheels (common on BMWs). Every week for me since I do mostly local roads and it's a heavier vehicle. Nothing but plain old soap and water on a rag since nothing actually prevents it from happening as much, outside of changing out the pads altogether. Having this style wheel doesn't make it any easier for cleaning "in the cracks".

 

[SpatiallyAware]

I like the gold class soap you listed.

Personally, I do not care for microfiber mitts for pant. They just don't suds up that much, and dirt seems tough to wash out completely. I use a MF mitt for my wheels and plastic parts (inside wheel wells, that sort of things)

I use a BMW lambswool mitt for the paint. I've tried a bunch of mitts... everything advance/autozone/etc sells as well as lambswool mitts from specialty online detail shops, and I still prefer the BMW mitt.

I've used the NXT wax for a long long time. I've tried everything from zaino to crazy german only polishes, and I still go back to NXT. It lasts a few months at best, but is easy to apply and (don't laugh, the smell is 'part of' waxing your car) smells really good.

I dry only with "big blue III" towels. I don't like any of the squeegees nor blow drying with leaf blowers.

Car wash stuff is washed by itself in the machine with no soap.

 

[xSkyDrAx]

How many towels does it usually take to dry the car? Given that it's average sized?

Also is there a specific method of drying/cleaning the towels/mitts for next use?

 

[SpatiallyAware]

How many towels does it usually take to dry the car? Given that it's average sized?

Also is there a specific method of drying/cleaning the towels/mitts for next use?

I use 2-3 of the big blue III towels although it could be done with one. They need to be a little damp before you can 'wipe' the paint.. So I blot a few times then wipe dry.

My lambswool mitt I basically just rinse it really well in the washing machine, remove before the cycle starts, and let hang dry. It's never used for anything all that dirty.

My MF mitt I rinse in a bucket to get brake dust etc off, then wash along with my dry towels (warm rinse, extra rinse) and tumble dry.

 

[xSkyDrAx]

I'm trying to get an idea of how the process works for 'basic' care.

Wash the car.

Dry the car.

then paint sealer/Wax? Or is there some kind of prep that I have to do? Where do things like the clay bar come into play?

 

[NutBucket]

Clay comes after washing to remove contaminants that washing cannot.

Usually after wax you would want to polish to get any light swirl marks out. Then sealant to protect your hard work.

 

[SpatiallyAware]

Clay comes after washing to remove contaminants that washing cannot.

Usually after wax you would want to polish to get any light swirl marks out. Then sealant to protect your hard work.

Just a note that using clay is a rare thing.. Since it's a new car, if you keep up with wash/wax and keep it in a garage you should rarely (if ever) have to clay it.

 

[SpatiallyAware]

I'm trying to get an idea of how the process works for 'basic' care.

Wash the car.

Dry the car.

then paint sealer/Wax? Or is there some kind of prep that I have to do? Where do things like the clay bar come into play?

I wash the car, dry the car, then let it sit inside for about an hour, then go around and wipe up the little drips. I then wax it. If it's a new car I would wax, wait 1 week then wash/wax again. After that wash when it needs it (every week or two) and wax once a month or so.

 

[xSkyDrAx]

Is waxing one of those tricky things to pick up or is it fairly straight forward?

If I mess it up, if that's possible, will it be bad? Should I just pay someone to do this occasionally?

 

[Doppel]

Some people use two buckets; after each area sudded with the mitt rinse it thoroughly in a second bucket of pure water. That way each dip into the soap bucket gives you a fairly fresh, clean mitt.

Anybody got any tips on minimizing light scratching? I am basically scared to wash my cars now for some reason, I keep seeing new scratches all the time (I do wash my mitt after each wash so that it's not got grime in it).

 

[xSkyDrAx]

So far I think my game plan is the two items I listed and 1-2 of those Big Blue towels that someone mentioned.

After that I will probably take it to get it waxed because I don't want to screw it up. Is it something that anyone can do easily? I heard it can look weird if you do it wrong?

 

[Capt Caveman]

Dude, you're not going to screw up waxing, do it yourself. I just washed and waxed my vehicle today.

Do all of this in the shade. After washing and drying, just apply the wax to one section of the car at a time, let it dry to a haze and buff-off with microfiber towels. I also use a toothbrush to get any wax residue that might be stuck in any trim/graps that the microfiber towels can't get out completely. I use the Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax and it goes on/off really easy. And the best thing for me(having a black vehicle), the wax dries clear so any left over residue doesn't show-up.

In between waxes, I use Meguiar's Quik Detailer spray after washing/drying the car. Just spray on and wipe off with a microfiber towel. I also use it for any dust/pollen that might get on the vehicle between washes. It's great in removing any water spots left from washing and keeps the wax shine and water beading on the vehicle.

 

[KentState]

Everything you need and need to know can be found here: http://www.autogeek.net/

I would read their tutorials and get an understanding for what process you want to take. I would highly recommend using two buckets, a natural sponge, micro fiber clothes for drying and then follow the process for detailing.

 

[jteef]

here are a couple if important steps; some of them have already been covered.

do all work in the shade / garage, if possible. The sun will dry water and soap pretty quickly which will make the finish look dull and may etch into the clear coat long-term.

use two buckets when washing. One is just plain water, the other has the soap. Blast your mitt with a hose after each body panel, then dunk it into the water bucket, shake it a bit and then into the soap bucket for the next panel.

forgot to add: never use a towel or mitt after it's touched the ground or a gritty surface. store them in ziplocks. don't use the same mitt on your paint that you use on your wheels. I normally buy one new mitt / quarter and start a rotation. New mitt gets used on the roof, hood, upper doors and trunk. used mitt is for the lower body areas and the exhaust area. oldest mitt gets used on the wheels, then tossed.

don't use a circular motion; use long front-to-back motions almost exclusively

for wheels, something like sonax full effect is pretty neat. it's got chemicals to dissolve brake dust and changes colors to let you know when it's done.

a drying "trick" is take the nozzle off the hose and turn the water on fairly low so a weak stream comes out. You then use the hose to sheet the water spots away. what remains will always be much smaller spots, will make your towel last longer and should make it easier to blot instead of wipe. You can also use some of the rinse-free products to save the scratching/swirling associated with towel drying.

If you keep a good sealant on your paint, washing /drying are really easy. same thing goes for your wheels; a good sealant on your wheels will make cleaning brake dust off a lot easier.

 

[xSkyDrAx]

nice thanks for the tips. looks like it's time to get to ordering some stuff!

and yes I'm starting to understand first hand how quickly a black car can start to look dusty.

 

[Howard]

Hate repeating myself, but this is what I do:

- two buckets with grit guards, both with the same amount of detergent
- wash wheels first with separate tools
- wash "dirty" paint with a MF cloth or mitt
- wash the rest of the paint with a different MF cloth or mitt
- clean the mitts/cloths often
- rinse often and do work in the shade
- I don't clay unless I'm polishing
- depending on what I feel like, I may dry the cloth with waffle-weave MF towels, or I may use a water-based spray wax on top of the water (e.g. Duragloss Aquawax)

 

[xSkyDrAx]

Does anyone know if washing your car a week after you wax it would remove the wax or should it be okay for a while despite washing?

 

[Howard]

Does anyone know if washing your car a week after you wax it would remove the wax or should it be okay for a while despite washing?

Washing the car, if done properly, will not remove significant amounts of wax. Generally, you should re-wax before the paint stops beading water.

 

[xSkyDrAx]

Washing the car, if done properly, will not remove significant amounts of wax. Generally, you should re-wax before the paint stops beading water.

Is it good practice to wash your car in between wax sessions? To keep crap off the wax?