gsaldivar
Diamond Member
- Apr 30, 2001
- 8,691
- 1
- 81
On some "direct drive" washing machines there is a hard rubber coupling between the motor and the drive shaft. This coupling is designed to disintegrate if the motor is overloaded, resulting in the exact symptoms you are describing.
It's a $10 part, but you really need a service manual for your washing machine to do the installation. You can get these service manuals from your manufacturer's service center (we have a Sears Service center down the street from my house). They are pretty cheap, but you have to ask for them by model - they usually don't put them out on the shop floor. You MIGHT be able to figure things out without the service manual, but you run a risk of screwing up the machine, and your repair time will at least double, in my experience.
The repair itself is relatively straightforward, but I highly recommend getting your service manual before taking things apart. There are some areas of the machine that retain a voltage even when the machine is powered off, so you don't want to get zapped. Also, some parts of the motor assembly are sharp and/or very heavy, and can easily injure if you have your hands in the wrong place during dissassembly.
Some basic tools, and a few hours of your time are all you really need to save hundreds in repair costs. If you can build a computer, a washer repair should be a piece of cake.
If you need any Sears service manuals, I'd be happy to pick one up for you at the service center nearby - send me a PM.
Good luck!
It's a $10 part, but you really need a service manual for your washing machine to do the installation. You can get these service manuals from your manufacturer's service center (we have a Sears Service center down the street from my house). They are pretty cheap, but you have to ask for them by model - they usually don't put them out on the shop floor. You MIGHT be able to figure things out without the service manual, but you run a risk of screwing up the machine, and your repair time will at least double, in my experience.
The repair itself is relatively straightforward, but I highly recommend getting your service manual before taking things apart. There are some areas of the machine that retain a voltage even when the machine is powered off, so you don't want to get zapped. Also, some parts of the motor assembly are sharp and/or very heavy, and can easily injure if you have your hands in the wrong place during dissassembly.
Some basic tools, and a few hours of your time are all you really need to save hundreds in repair costs. If you can build a computer, a washer repair should be a piece of cake.
If you need any Sears service manuals, I'd be happy to pick one up for you at the service center nearby - send me a PM.
Good luck!
DrPizza
Administrator Elite Member Goat Whisperer
Where's Roger to say "make? model?"
If you can figure out which part is bad, you can probably order that part. Or, at least find out the cost of the part and decide if replacing the part is worth it vs. a new machine. Most repairs aren't too difficult on washers. I'm pulling my hair out trying to remember the name of the plastic piece that someone mentioned above. I replaced one of those pieces a few years ago... He's correct, $10 part, and IIRC, symptoms were identical to the ones you're describing.
If you can figure out which part is bad, you can probably order that part. Or, at least find out the cost of the part and decide if replacing the part is worth it vs. a new machine. Most repairs aren't too difficult on washers. I'm pulling my hair out trying to remember the name of the plastic piece that someone mentioned above. I replaced one of those pieces a few years ago... He's correct, $10 part, and IIRC, symptoms were identical to the ones you're describing.
It looks like you already opened it up, but did you try stopping the washer and moving it to a different cycle?
Could possibly be the starer cap has fried.
There is a capacitor that "Kicks" the motor to get it to spin.
That paart is usually located right off the motor
There is a capacitor that "Kicks" the motor to get it to spin.
That paart is usually located right off the motor
- Jan 21, 2002
- 6,944
- 3
- 81
Well, after messing with it all day yesterday, pulling the top and front panels off, removing the agitator, disconnecting everything, pulling the inner and outer tub completely out, pulling the drivetrain apart, etc. I couldn't find anything at all wrong with it. So I gave up and put it all back together figuring I'd bite the bullet and have someone come look at it or take it in somewhere. I thought "what the hell" and tried running it once more with no clothes in it. It ran through and spun exactly like it is supposed to. So I tried a load of clothes and it worked fine. I've now done 3 loads of clothes and it seems to be working just fine.
So I have no idea what the problem was or if it will happen again, but for now it's working. The only thing I can think of that might have made a difference was having the belt a little tighter now. But it really didn't seem loose before and the belt didn't show any signs of wear or friction, so I doubt that is it.
So I have no idea what the problem was or if it will happen again, but for now it's working. The only thing I can think of that might have made a difference was having the belt a little tighter now. But it really didn't seem loose before and the belt didn't show any signs of wear or friction, so I doubt that is it.
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