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Washing machine no longer spins

IronWing

IronWing

No Lifer
I have a GE top loader that no longer will enter final spin. The rest of the cycle completes but when the spin is supposed to start it makes a few half hearted attempts and then ends the cycle. Tried running it with a small load and same thing. It has a “spin and drain” function so I tried that. Contrary to the name of the function, it fills up the machine and drains but no spin. Any ideas on what to check?
 
There are scores of YouTube videos that might be helpful depending on your specific model.

FWIW, our Maytag had a problem that sounds very similar to yours and it turned out that the plastic teeth on the gearing that engaged the tub had worn down to the point that it no longer worked. A relatively easy fix. That was the first time.

The second time it was the metal spline teeth on the shaft that had worn down. That one required a repairman.

Good luck!
 
Not sure about the specific design on yours, but on many there are tabs you poke/pop on a seam between the top and the front panel, lift the top up then there is access to pull off the front panel.

Once the front panel is off, you can run a cycle and potentially see what's going wrong. Do this with minimum fill water and no clothing to reduce vibrations as the machine is a little less structurally sound without the front panel on.
 
^ DON'T DO IT.

(Unless it's a Speed Queen).

Everything else new on the market now is a severe downgrade over the older designs, that will probably only last 7 years or so, depending on frequency of use and size of loads.

Speed Queen on the other hand are still built well and don't severely compromise ability to get clothes clean in an effort to save 3 cents worth of electricity. They cost more up front but will probably last 3X as long and you won't be hating yourself for picking something else.
 
The belt is frayed and sliding. The belt is frayed because the transmission is leaking oil and dragging. New washer it is. 🙁
 
mindless1 said:
^ DON'T DO IT.

(Unless it's a Speed Queen).

Everything else new on the market now is a severe downgrade over the older designs, that will probably only last 7 years or so, depending on frequency of use and size of loads.

Speed Queen on the other hand are still built well and don't severely compromise ability to get clothes clean in an effort to save 3 cents worth of electricity. They cost more up front but will probably last 3X as long and you won't be hating yourself for picking something else.
Click to expand...
Where I live it is the water cost/drought that is the issue. For folks that launder clothes normally I haven't experienced any issues with "modern" washers getting clothes adequately clean. I don't disagree though that it won't last 20 years without any issues. Luckily they aren't particularly hard to repair if you've got some mechanical aptitude.
 
oh, well yes that is also valid. I was just saying there are good arguments for buying "modern" front loaders compared to Speed Queens. Obviously it is almost always cheaper to just fix what you've got.
 
PowerEngineer said:
There are scores of YouTube videos that might be helpful depending on your specific model.

FWIW, our Maytag had a problem that sounds very similar to yours and it turned out that the plastic teeth on the gearing that engaged the tub had worn down to the point that it no longer worked. A relatively easy fix. That was the first time.

The second time it was the metal spline teeth on the shaft that had worn down. That one required a repairman.

Good luck!
Click to expand...

We had a Whirlpool that I had to replace the agitator dogs in. Parts were cheap as chips...took about 10 minutes to fix.
 
Lost_in_the_HTTP said:
Wonder how many more posts there will be from people who haven't read this solution?
Click to expand...
But is it the only solution? Oil leak could be a cracked housing, or could just be gasket failure? Probably needs a new belt too, if the old one is not just coated in oil to be slippery but also, worn out. That's roughly $120 to $275 in parts (IF available), maybe less if there's a transmission rebuild kit.

Just sayin'... the average new, inferior, washer is potentially triple that cost, and may last no longer than the remaining life in the old one before it too, needs repaired or replaced. Lots of variables... if it has a drum brake, that too, may be another failure point that's a more involved repair than the more easily swapped components. At least that's ONE virtue of my newer washer, they just designed it to keep spinning till it stops rather than having any brake... but then it has to have a door safety interlock (flimsy plastic at that) that is another failure point, but far easier to replace.
 
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