Voltage Readings: Bad or Good ?

[crockman]

Voltage Readings from about 8 Days ago: Volts. 8 Days Ago

Volt. Readings 4 Days Ago. Volts. 4 Days Ago


Notice in Particular the CPU & RAM Volts. As well notice the CPU & RAM had a Major change in Volt Readings. Nothing on the PC was changed in any way.

What Caused the Major Volt. Changes ?

Were the 8-Day Volts. the correct Volts for my System, or were they out of whack to begin with ?

My System:

Asrock 939DualSata2 MB, Bios 1.90
AMD64 3700+ San Diego E4
A-Data DDR400 CAS-3, 2x1GB Dual-Channel
Powercolor X1950Pro-512MB PCI-e
2xWD Raptor 36GB in Raid-0
Ultra X-connect Modular 500 watt Psu
Windows XP-Home SP2

Thanks

 

[robisbell]

voltages have dropped and temps are going up. you need a new PSU.

 

[crockman]

Volt. Readings taken 5 minutes ago: Volts.

However, about 4 days ago when i put this Asrock PC back together, I used ArticSilver5 on the CPU, so these readings should be lower than the 8-Day ago readings cause at that time the CPU had the Stock HS/F Thermal Pad.

I was being Lazy when i built this PC a few months ago and used the Stock HS/F Thermal Pad.

But neither here nor there, these present readings will be lower because of the ArticSilver so not sure if you can use these Readings as a comparison.

 

[Quiksilver]

I don't know how many times I have to say it and continue to prove rob wrong, that software and BIOS voltage readings are always wrong. In order to get accurate voltage readings from a PSU you need to purchase a multi-meter.

 

[Fardringle]

The real question is: Is your computer functioning normally or are you having problems with it?

If it's working normally, the voltage numbers that PC Wizard is giving you really don't matter. As Quiksilver said, software readings are notoriously unreliable.

If your computer is not working normally, then I would start with an actual multimeter to measure the voltage ratings on each power rail to see if there is a problem with the power supply or the motherboard.

 

[robisbell]

he's replacing the board for a seperate issue and is going to have to replace the psu anyway due to the new board needing a 24pin main.
quicksilver, if you can correct this for the little time he'll be using the old PSU, more power to you, and so far you've done nothing to fix any problems, just griped about people that have.

 

[crockman]

I do not have access to a Multimeter at the moment. Have not really had a need for 1.

But I'll go purchase a Multimeter tomorrow.

Speed Fan's Volt. Readings are almost Identical to PC Wizards. With Cpu at 1.10 & Ram at 1.14.

BIOS lists V core at (fluctuating from 1.354 to 1.387)

But as you say Software & Bios readings are not reliable. I'll grab a Multimeter in the morning.


And yes the main reason why I'm here is that my PC is acting up. I've so far only noticed any PC Troubles while OnLine Gaming, it seems to run fine otherwise.

I've heard Warning Beep Codes from the Chassis Speaker numerous times while playing Lord of the Rings online. The Beep Codes equated to 1. Base 64 memory Error & Dram Refresh Error. As well have had some Graphical Problems while playing Lotro.

So I'm basically trying to narrow down whats at Fault.

Thanks

 

[Quiksilver]

Originally posted by: robisbell
he's replacing the board for a seperate issue and is going to have to replace the psu anyway due to the new board needing a 24pin main.
quicksilver, if you can correct this for the little time he'll be using the old PSU, more power to you, and so far you've done nothing to fix any problems, just griped about people that have.

So your saying I'm trolling?
When in every thread that I have visited your advice has been "Use software if voltages are wrong buy a new PSU because thats the problem!!111!!" Except the most recent it one where you actually gave good advice and was to use a multi-meter to check the voltages.

The point is, your trying to say everything is PSU related when in fact it usually isn't. I said it before and I'll say it again, if me saving the OP his time and money on purchasing a PSU and swapping his old one out is trolling them I'll be damned for even responding.

Now back on topic--

If you do pick up a Multi-Meter you will want to read this article before doing any testing.
http://www.devhardware.com/for...-it-to-test-75111.html

Now my question is, have you gone into your system BIOS and manually set the voltages for your RAM & CPU to what the manufacture requires instead of letting the motherboard do it for you?

Also do you have AMD Cool N' Quiet turned on or off?

Lastly, have you looked on the motherboard for any leaking or bulging capacitors?

 

[robisbell]

well, when everything inside a PC depends on the PSU, oh I am tired of trying to get you to do something other than hassling those of us that actually do give detailed advice and not generic advice, and actually work on the issue.

 

[Quiksilver]

Originally posted by: robisbell
well, when everything inside a PC depends on the PSU, oh I am tired of trying to get you to do something other than hassling those of us that actually do give detailed advice and not generic advice, and actually work on the issue.

yes sir, I'm obviously not doing anything productive here...

If you do pick up a Multi-Meter you will want to read this article before doing any testing.
http://www.devhardware.com/for...-it-to-test-75111.html

Now my question is, have you gone into your system BIOS and manually set the voltages for your RAM & CPU to what the manufacture requires instead of letting the motherboard do it for you?

Also do you have AMD Cool N' Quiet turned on or off?

Lastly, have you looked on the motherboard for any leaking or bulging capacitors?

Working on the issue doesn't mean let's all jump to conclusions and say its this piece of equipment without any confirmed information. Like your "your psu is to blame" mentality.

Start with the least expensive options first then work your way up, in this case their are plenty of other things he can check out and do before he jumps right into swap out psu for a new one.

 

[crockman]

Now my question is, have you gone into your system BIOS and manually set the voltages for your RAM & CPU to what the manufacture requires instead of letting the motherboard do it for you?

I have not manually set any Voltages in BIOS. I'm not exactly sure on how to do it.
A lot of the BIOS is written in Technical type language of which i do not understand.

I Build my own PC's, but i would only consider my PC Knowledge Medium. I can manually put them together, take it apart, put back together. That's not that difficult. But I've never done much in BIOS other than standard things like set boot order, disable onboard sound for i have a sound card, enable power-on from Keyboard, just minor things like that.

I went to the A-Data website to find what my memory Voltage should be, I could not find the answer so i sent them an Email (about 20 minutes ago).

I'm not sure what my 3700+ voltage should be set at either.


I do believe that this Asrock has in fact Defaulted the Cpu & Memory incorrectly. My Hypertransport is running at only 1600, & the Memory at DDR333 with a CAS of 2.5.


I do know that Software Monitored readings can be unreliable, have heard that many times before. But there is 1 Stat on PC Wizard 2008 that has me wondering abit. PC Wizard lists my PC as having only 29% Free resources when PC is at Idle. It's been a few years since I've done any PC Technical stuff and have forgotten a lot of it, but shouldn't Free Resources be upwards of 70% or higher ?

Also do you have AMD Cool N' Quiet turned on or off?

Cool-n-Quiet IS Enabled. it was Enabled by Default because i did not personally enable it.

Lastly, have you looked on the motherboard for any leaking or bulging capacitors?

I took this PC apart about 4-5 days ago and checked everything over pretty good. I saw no apparent physical damage to the MB, in fact it still looked Brand New.

Surfing the Web, Virus Scans, and all normal everyday stuff this PC runs flawlessly, but when i go play my Favorite Online Games is when I'll start to see the Problems occur.

 

[Quiksilver]

Originally posted by: crockman

Now my question is, have you gone into your system BIOS and manually set the voltages for your RAM & CPU to what the manufacture requires instead of letting the motherboard do it for you?

I have not manually set any Voltages in BIOS. I'm not exactly sure on how to do it.
A lot of the BIOS is written in Technical type language of which i do not understand.

I Build my own PC's, but i would only consider my PC Knowledge Medium. I can manually put them together, take it apart, put back together. That's not that difficult. But I've never done much in BIOS other than standard things like set boot order, disable onboard sound for i have a sound card, enable power-on from Keyboard, just minor things like that.

I went to the A-Data website to find what my memory Voltage should be, I could not find the answer so i sent them an Email (about 20 minutes ago).

I'm not sure what my 3700+ voltage should be set at either.


I do believe that this Asrock has in fact Defaulted the Cpu & Memory incorrectly. My Hypertransport is running at only 1600, & the Memory at DDR333 with a CAS of 2.5.


I do know that Software Monitored readings can be unreliable, have heard that many times before. But there is 1 Stat on PC Wizard 2008 that has me wondering abit. PC Wizard lists my PC as having only 29% Free resources when PC is at Idle. It's been a few years since I've done any PC Technical stuff and have forgotten a lot of it, but shouldn't Free Resources be upwards of 70% or higher ?

Also do you have AMD Cool N' Quiet turned on or off?

Cool-n-Quiet IS Enabled. it was Enabled by Default because i did not personally enable it.

Lastly, have you looked on the motherboard for any leaking or bulging capacitors?

I took this PC apart about 4-5 days ago and checked everything over pretty good. I saw no apparent physical damage to the MB, in fact it still looked Brand New.

Surfing the Web, Virus Scans, and all normal everyday stuff this PC runs flawlessly, but when i go play my Favorite Online Games is when I'll start to see the Problems occur.

Alright now were getting somewhere.

First let's start off with AMD Cool N' Quiet explanation first.

This feature is a power saving option similar to that of Intel's EIST (Speed Step), it lowers the clock speed and voltage while at idle and when it needs the raw power it ramps up the speeds back to stock.

With this on it might explain the voltage fluctuation's your seeing in the software but it's really hit or miss, I personally leave this feature off for my rig. To turn it off it you will need to access the BIOS and look around for it.

Now let's talk voltages.

I noticed in your sig you have a 3700+ E4 revision (which was helpful cause there were two revisions) and according to AMD's website it is rated for a vCore of 1.35/1.40.

http://products.amd.com/en-us/...opCPUDetail.aspx?id=98

I recommend setting it to 1.40 vCore, for instructions on how to do this you will need to refer to your manual or by poking around looking for it.

For your memory voltages I'm not entirely certain either as I couldn't find them either, could you post the full model number for these sticks?

If you just want to go right into the BIOS without worrying about looking around and playing with the wrong settings I recommend reading your BIOS manual; if you no longer have the manual AsRock has the manual online(see link below). According to FoxIt reader the BIOS section starts at page 22.

http://www.asrock.com/mb/manua...el=939Dual-SATA2&s=939

Anyway, after doing as much as this as possible post back with results.

 

[crockman]

A Quick reply.

Model # of A-Data Memory: ADBGC1A16K DDR400 Vitesta 2x1gig Dual Channel Kit rated CAS-3

Ill go take care of the other things you mentioned

Thanks for the help QuiksilverX1 & Robisbell

 

[robisbell]

Crock,
I know you'll be happy to get a decent board and PSU to replace that old asrock board.

 

[Quiksilver]

Originally posted by: crockman
A Quick reply.

Model # of A-Data Memory: ADBGC1A16K DDR400 Vitesta 2x1gig Dual Channel Kit rated CAS-3

Ill go take care of the other things you mentioned

Thanks for the help QuiksilverX1 & Robisbell

With that I was able to come up with 2.5V, 2.6V, and 2.7V. So I'm not sure yet :S

You can probably use PC Wizard to see what voltage the RAM requires. I know my OCZ memory need 2.5v. So i'd imagine yours can't be too far off.

 

[crockman]

Thanks Quik,

This is from the A-Data Website, but my Memory came from Factory with Red Heatspreaders.

I couldn't find a picture of DDR400 with Red Heatspreaders at A-Data, a few other speeds did, but not the 400.

It may be that my Model of 400 is not listed so this figure may not be accurate.

A-Data Site

A-Data is saying 2.7v +/or - .1

SpeedFan says 2.5v &

PC Wizard says 3.3v supported.

So i figure I'll set them at 2.6v, but I don't think my BIOS has specific Dram Voltages, all i saw in BIOS for Dram Voltage was High, Normal or Low setting

 

[Quiksilver]

According to JEDEC DDR spec's it should be 2.5v but as it seems your BIOS is rather vague, I would assume that 2.5v is "Normal". Anyway your looked into the wrong spot for PC Wizard you wanted to look here http://i15.tinypic.com/8eror4k.jpg but let us know how it goes

 

[crockman]

QuiksilverX1,
It looks from your Screenie that you are in Mainboard/Physical memory section of PC Wizard, Correct ?

This is a screenie from my Mainboard/Physical memory Section, Mine shows much less information then yours does for some reason. Mainboard/Physical Memory

Mainboard/Chipset

Volts and Temps 10 minutes ago

Thanks

 

[robisbell]

because he has a different board, processor and ram.

 

[Quiksilver]

Damn, was hoping it would be detailed but I guess that has to do with chipset and other differences. One thing to notice is kind of weird, is why is your memory running at PC2100(DDR 266 - 133Mhz)? It should be operating at PC3200 (DDR 400 - 200Mhz) :S

I took at glance at your Mobo manual, and it seems you would want to set the Memory Clock to 200Mhz, and Enable "Flexibility Option".

 

[crockman]

One thing to notice is kind of weird, is why is your memory running at PC2100(DDR 266 - 133Mhz)?

Answer to that is actually a by-product of this particular recommendation

Enable "Flexibility Option".

It turns out that "Flexibility Option" is basically a Cheap way to enhance Memory Compatibility, 'ala' a more Expensive way would be to use Low-Density memory.

I was following tangent after tangent around the web reading all sorts of things about this Asrock, on 1 Forum I heard that by Enabling Flexibility the BIOS then sets the Memory to run at 133, the poster didn't know why, but he was exactly correct.

My Flexibility was already Enabled, so I disabled it and now the Memory runs at 200.

No matter though, setting the Vcore to 1.40 Volts and RAM to "Normal", (Normal=2.5 Volts in my BIOS (High=2.7)<---Also found that out webserfing last night didn't help any.

I'm still getting the Error-Beeps and some very strange game play.

So for a Possible Cheap fix to this problem I went and ordered this from Fry's yesterday.

ECS RX480

This was also available at Fry's, but i didn't want it due to possible Chipset Fan Headaches. ECS KN1 Lite

Hopefully a New MB will solve the problem, If not my next best guess is Bad Memory on my X1950Pro.

So now I'm shopping for a New PSU cause my Old Ultra X-Connect is only 20-Pin.


These 2 PSU's have caught my Eye. With my particular setup i think 500 watts is plenty of Power, but I did notice a lot of nice write-ups about PC Power PSU's

Seasonic
PC Power