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Vi's dedicated theatre is mostly built...1/8/10 update..chairs and bass traps

vi edit

Elite Member
Super Moderator
After a long 14 months I'm about 95% done with my home and dedicated theatre. I've had a thread in OT about the general build, but figured I'd bring a dedicated thread to the dedicated forum about this room since people seemed rather interested in it.

My room isn't an ideal dimension, but it works. It's roughly 12 x 16 with a bit of an awkward return on part of the back wall. Entry is from the back wall which really hurts placement of furniture.

But without much adieu...here's some pictures of the process:

Rough in framing and the resilient channel going up. I also did mineral wool along all walls and the celing:
http://public.bay.livefilestore.com...bwPZhc20ht2EBSXUtYc5NTGuA/IMG_3754.JPG?psid=1

The walls were made from two layers of 5/8" blue board with a layer of green glue between them. The finish coat of the wall was a plaster with knock down finish. Even with carpet reflections were absolutely crazy. It was an echo chamber.

I lived near Iowa City, Iowa for about 10 years and my wife is a Hawkeye graduate and I wanted a small tribute to the Hawkeye colors...so that's the theme I chose.

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com...lT0EhtdMGCtJM8j9F4BLgC3yA/IMG_4624.JPG?psid=1

Notice on the screen wall that the plaster guys forgot to cut out the right side speaker cable box. Doh. I didn't notice that until we moved in and after carpet went in.

Back of the room:
http://public.bay.livefilestore.com...46PmvO745mfVeXmXiJDVD07sg/IMG_4626.JPG?psid=1

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And now the fun stuff really starts happening...

Because of the size and shape of my room, serious compromises had to be made. If you look at the framing of the front wall putting in-wall speakers in would have been very difficult because of that big header running across the room at about 4 feet up.

Because of the depth of the room doing a false wall was very challenging without having a screen right in your face. And I *REALLY* wanted to go acoustically transparent and get at least the center channel behind the screen.

So, I did a little homework and just took matters into my own hands and came up with a solution. I bought some inwall speakers and turned them into on-wall speakers.

I browsed ebay for months looking for options and finally found these:
http://www.phasetech.com/products.html?product_id=CI-110II&fm=1

They are Phase Technology CI-110's. It's a 20 pound inwall speaker with some excellent dynamics and very good reviews. These things retail for close to $1000 a piece. I bought 3 of them for $400 total. Score.

So to get them to work on wall, I built my own enclosures out of 3/4" MDF and lined it with a damping foam on the back and sidewalls. Cabinet volume ended up around 1 c/f which is similar to the volume of the companies other cabinet speakers based off of similar MTM designs. Finished weight is close to 45 pounds. These are not light at all.

I've got a 100" screen and trying to fit things to the side was going to be a challenge if I still wanted bass traps in the corners. So I compromised again and tucked everything behind the screen.

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com...MdoMQvAqscAWPaiPusvV6koNw/IMG_3860.JPG?psid=1

They really don't lean that bad. It was one part not being permanently affixed, and one part lens distortion from my crappy P&S camera on it's widest setting. Also don't mind the horrible construction. I threw them together over a weekend without my table saw on site...and they are behind a screen anyway 😛

I probably could have run the speaker cables higher behind the wall, but at the time I was planning on floorstanders. And I already had enough holes in the wall...didn't want to make more.

Here's the back of the room with the projector mounted:
http://public.bay.livefilestore.com..._Zv5qfF_j-h-E-aqclqt2yukA/IMG_3843.JPG?psid=1

I still need to put a finished router edge on the shelf, paint it, and get the covers on the brackets. The projector is a Mitsubishi HC3800. It's a DLP projector with somewhat limited mounting options. It can't do a rear, shelf mounted image. So I had to do a hanging one. I didn't want it on the celing because of bounce issues, more holes, or the fact that it's just a lot more comfortable viewing height from there.

From the start I was determined to have the equipment out of the room. I didn't want the heat, noise, or lights affecting things. Plus it's just a lot "cleaner" looking not having it in the room. So I had them frame out a space for me up front. Here's what my trim guy ended up doing for me:

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com...uImgLh_YKsHaCCrNLJacs7tPw/IMG_5044.JPG?psid=1

To the right you can see one of my acoustic panels. It was made out of left over mineral wool and some luan 1/4" plywood and 1x3" lumber. Cloth is $1.99 broadcloth from Hobby Lobby. Even having two of these in the room made a huge difference in the echos. I still need to get a couple more on the back walls and maybe a little bit up front behind the screen. More of the mineral wool be used to make the bass traps in the corners.

Here's the rack behind the door:
http://public.bay.livefilestore.com...5ZVfSasPjOgetJgGQ1eRpJbYg/IMG_5045.JPG?psid=1

I've got about 36" of height there. I framed it up with scrap 2x4" and painted it black. Hung a couple of the double track rails from the storage section of your local big box home store for $5 a piece. Then used some left over scrap sections from shelving in other parts of the house that I painted black.

Here's the backside of that mess that drops into an unfinished basement:
http://public.bay.livefilestore.com...vMXBf5W2DcUAYk7DeNLIUzIMA/IMG_5046.JPG?psid=1

All low voltage comes back to here.
http://public.bay.livefilestore.com...houUA0VtB34sS00BjYIRXm-ig/IMG_5047.JPG?psid=1

It's an absolute mess. That's my winter project to clean it up. I still need to get my rack mounted switch ordered, a few rack shelves, and possibly a rack mounted cable splitter. It's just all temped in for function rather than form right now.

I've got about 40 home runs of Cat coming in for ethernet jacks around the house. 10 runs of RG6, 6 runs for whole house audio and another Cat5 for the controllers. Plus all the wiring for the HT coming in. It's just a mess.

🙂

-----------------------

And finally....
http://public.bay.livefilestore.com...DdaIx1V-9WaJrBfuagXcUF3lQ/IMG_5038.JPG?psid=1

The screen is on the wall. Got stuff picked up and audessy run. The front wall all but dissapears when the lights go off. On really bright scenes the big honking MFW on the right is visible, but it's not obnoxious like it is when it's light in the room.

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com...KDBDjnUsVpitGifp4VEiK9Ddw/IMG_5040.JPG?psid=1

------------------------

I've still got some trim painting and little things to do. Have more treatment panels to hang, and my bass traps really need to go in.

Some thoughts and suggestions for others considering this:

Read. Read. Read some more. Don't compromise on your space unless you absolutely have to. I'm still kicking myself for making it as small at is was, but making it bigger wasn't cheap because of the rooms location.

Don't buy any equipment until you have it built. I made that mistake a couple times and each time I saw the room grow smaller and smaller during the build I had to reconsider my options.

Pay attention to the sound isolation. This is probably my favorite thing. That double layer drywall and green glue freaking works. It's not about keeping sound in. It's about keeping sound in. If the room has a lower noise level inside it, you aren't cranking things as loud to overcome the noise. I can have the room at a very comfortable volume inside, but even in the room direction outside the theatre you have no idea anyone is watching a movie. It's not until you you take things up to reference/painful levels that things really start to roar and other rooms are affected.

For those that have an Onkyo receiver, I have my RC-180 at around -22 or so for most movies and that is unnoticable to outside rooms. Going down to -10 and things really start to pound in the room and it's almost uncomfortable levels of volume and bass. There's some serious "booming" going on outside the room.

If you are considering doing an acoustically transparent screen...do it. Having the speakers behind the scren adds a naturalness to the dialog that you just can't appreciate until you experience it. Center channels are much more direct in their sound than you'd think. Sound is actually coming from the actors mouths now. It's just very cool.

I have to downsides to it and they are somewhat minimal and are easily outweighed by the upside of the center behind the screen. One is the screen itself. At the 9' distance I'm at, you can see the weave of the fabric in very specific scenes. Cloudy/dusty/smoky scenes show the weave. It's not obnoxious, but it's there. All other scenes are great looking. The other issue is speaker placement. If you have a narrow room you might have to compromise like I did getting everything behind the screen/wall.

------------------------

My other thoughts are this: there's perfect, there's good enough, and there's just get it done.

Try to shoot somewhere in the middle. There's just too much going on for most people either budget, time, or ability wise. Make the most of what you have and don't compare yourself to others. Also keep in mind that people have very specific tastes, goals, budgets, ect. Make the most of your space, budget and goals. Spending money on noise isoloation is something you only get one good chance at so if that's a goal of yours, do it.

Don't get as caught up in perfect room ratios, having the ultimate speakers, or perfect placement of this panel or that panel or seating ect. Work with what you have. Chances are good that you'll be happy with what you have, and if you are happy, then there's even a higher chance that other people will be even more impressed. The experts at AVS aren't sitting in your room each night or paying for the bills to build the room. So you aren't trying to keep them happy. But read up and see what you can do with your constraits and make the most of things.

My budget was modest, but ultimately it sounds good to me, looks great, and my family and friends think it's freaking awesome and beg to watch movies there. And that's what is important. Not having perfectly placed speakers or professional designed acoustic treatments or layouts or high dollar automated lights and various gadgets.

Feel free to ask any other questions...and sorry for the long post 🙂
 
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Congrats! Enjoy it, I just moved into a house a few months ago and have been waiting to get my PJ rigged up in the basement.
(I'm renting, and while the landlord is ok with some house audio going in he was a bit hesitant to let me start ripping up his basement to put in a doorway, morotized screen, etc... but I went and destroyed my ankle anyway so it's a mute point for the time being)

Good luck with the wire maintenance, and be prepared to just start over with the cable routing. It makes it a whole lot easier to disconnect everything, and route each systems cable separately. But it really doesn't look too bad. I've cleaned up worse, by far.

And great job with the acoustical treatments. Most people see what some of the systems retail systems cost and just say "eff it" but it really can make or break a theater room being enjoyable for everyone in the house!

Edit: Where did you get your screen?
 
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Thanks Andy. I'm working this week on ordering some Berkline recliners to replace that big red couch. It was a leftover from a previous living room and we put it in there until something better was bought.

Going with the Berkline Academy in a 2x loveseat setup with the power recline. They are narrow enough that they will allow almost three feet of opening in the middle of the room for the door to open freely.
 
Your wiring makes my eyes cry 🙂

Looks good - Glad to see at least someone got their HT room done!

(Maybe it's just the angle the picture taken at but your screen seems a bit low. How high off the ground is it?)
 
Heh. Yeh the wiring is an absolute mess. A huge chunk of that is my whole house audio stuff coming in to the home runs. Thats' a huge pile of cables that I'm not exactly sure where it will terminate at. Overall I've got close to 5000 feet of various low voltage cables running through my house. Most stuff was temped in until I had time or a permanent idea of where it should terminate. Some of it was slapped together just to validate that the wiring was run right.

Most of that stuff was run over 4 months ago and left there until the last couple weeks when I actually could do something with it.
 
Wow, that's nice.

Really makes me wish I had a basement. I would love to do a nice theater room, but my house is too small 🙁.
 
Cool - I like your approach and agree with your comments re: the AVS crowd. Not all of us have the time/money/desire to get as crazy as some of them do, and the difference between that and "good enough" probably isn't something most would notice. I'm sure that room's destined to be constantly occupied!

Where'd you score the mineral wool? I can't find anywhere that carries it - I could special order Roxul from Home Depot, but wanted to just get a single bag first to see if I thought it was worth using over the pink stuff.
 
I got my mineral wool from the insulation guys doing the rest of my house.

My screen sits about 30" off the floor. It's also about 30" from the ceiling (9ft). I have no riser in the room. I had it higher initially when shooting at the wall but didn't like it. This just felt better from our seats to my wife and I. I don't like having to look "up" while watching a movie.
 
My screen sits about 30" off the floor. It's also about 30" from the ceiling (9ft). I have no riser in the room. I had it higher initially when shooting at the wall but didn't like it. This just felt better from our seats to my wife and I. I don't like having to look "up" while watching a movie.

I'm probably used to seeing higher screens due to riser considerations + the average height someone takes a picture at
 
Looks nice. I have a 12x15 foot room with a back entrance (no physical door). I'm a little south of you (Texas) so basements aren't an option. I bought the house when it was 4 years old, so I had to work with the sound isolation I have in place.

Heck, it is just me and the dog so I can crank the sound. However, sometimes on real low frequencies, the metal boxes in the walls will rattle 🙁

When my AC needs to be replaced, I plan to move it to the attic and turn the AC unit room into my equipment room. (With 2-3 people and the equipment running it can get 5-8 degrees warmer than rest of the house after a couple of hours). Nice in the winter, not so much in the summer.

You may someday go with dark walls all the way around. It made a huge difference when I painted my ceiling after 2 years of an off-white ceiling.

Link to some info and pictures: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=732240
 
is your screen perforated?

Techinically it's a weave.

http://shop.elitescreens.com/acousticproezframeseries.aspx

Re: wall colors

I've had a couple people tell me that I'll want to go black all the way around. Meh. Once you shut off the lights it's practically a tunnel in there. There's very, very minimal reflections off the side walls and the contrast is very good on the screen. A little warmth in the room color wise isn't a bad thing. It's a much darker color in person than the pictures show.

The only thing I'm going to look to do is set up some kind of DIY masking on the screen for movies that aren't 16:9.
 
1/8/10

Got my bass traps & chair in now 🙂

Did a "superchunk" style in the front corners and built a frame with fabric over it to hide them.

http://xuvxbq.bay.livefilestore.com...PNYFMgAj9WVmWsHP9z3b7qry7/IMG_5151.JPG?psid=1

Covered up:
http://xuvxbq.bay.livefilestore.com...CNKtVKnpyok9NEXQ3hSdxx-QV/IMG_3917.JPG?psid=1

Got my chairs in. They are Berkline 12010's w/ power recline. Great chairs for the space they take up. Very comfortable. Paid $2100 delivered for them which isn't a horrible price for power recline.
http://xuvxbq.bay.livefilestore.com...nqE4IHFleM_9t4evwkH_mLHbs/IMG_3919.JPG?psid=1

I also hacked my Wii sensor bar and extended the cable so I could mount it under the screen. The console is in the a/v rack about 25 feet away (by cable length distance). I cut the sensor cable and spliced it to length with speaker wire. Works like a charm and no need for batteries or nuances of the wireless bars.
http://xuvxbq.bay.livefilestore.com...OowLIrv7G_vrEYZzsJ-QJ1O6a/IMG_3924.JPG?psid=1

A poorly lit shot of the left edge of the screen:
http://xuvxbq.bay.livefilestore.com...Ie1hBudRefq616H8o4jT62VQI/IMG_3929.JPG?psid=1

And a better lit one of the right edge:
http://xuvxbq.bay.livefilestore.com...UtRMq_PynGyr205l9P4JAPYzm/IMG_3930.JPG?psid=1
 
The only thing I'm going to look to do is set up some kind of DIY masking on the screen for movies that aren't 16:9.

When I decide to upgrade, I'm going to do some custom masking, too...but it will be for 16:9 or less movies. I plan on getting a 21:9 screen and a projector that can handle it. That way, I just pull curtains to the side from the left and right. I want a constant image height theater, very badly...but it is still pretty expensive.
 
When I decide to upgrade, I'm going to do some custom masking, too...but it will be for 16:9 or less movies. I plan on getting a 21:9 screen and a projector that can handle it. That way, I just pull curtains to the side from the left and right. I want a constant image height theater, very badly...but it is still pretty expensive.

I'll admit that I'm not edumakated enough to fully understand the CIH stuff. Do you need some kind of special projector and lens to do that?
 
Look dang nice! Those lights look really good too.

Is there going to be a stage or anything up front?

Thanks! Don't get me started on sconces. The single biggest racket in the lighing industry. The prices they charge for these things are retarded. I did good at $60 each from an online vendor. But it's still $240. :\

Probably a "no" on the stage. It's just too tight of a space and I like the more open floor the "floating" screen gets me. I wanted to do a stage and a false wall, but once I saw how fast the room started shrinking it just wasn't going to happen.
 
I'll admit that I'm not edumakated enough to fully understand the CIH stuff. Do you need some kind of special projector and lens to do that?

Yes, you need a projector that can take the lens to "zoom" the image and remove the black bars. You also need a special blu-ray/dvd player that can move the forced subtitles that are normally shown in the black bars.
 
Whats your plans for the subs then? look silly just sitting there

I had originally planned to going IB but the rear waves spilling out into the unfinished space (and ultimately the rest of the house) swayed me against it. I like the isolation a mostly sealed room gives me.

Stage is mostly out of the question. The short wall in the back is only 14. With a screen mounted 6" out and the chairs where they are I'm only at about 11' viewing distance. To squeeze a stage & false wall in I'm looking at a 9' or less from eye to screen. That's getting a little tight for comfort. We play video games and still have room on the floor to toss bean bag chairs for extra kids that watch.

The 12" really doesn't stand out at all. The Moho veneer MFW is quite a beast but it's really not that bad honestly. Once the lights go out and the movie fires up you don't know it's even there.

I said from the start that some compromises were made. It's still a better solution than having all of the speakers floor based. At least I've got the fronts tucked away and behind the screen.
 
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