i think what you mean is syntax highlighting?
you can still see the html tags, etc, and they are bolded, underline, etc, depending on the source code?
try :set syntax=off to turn off syntax highlighting, if that is the case.
otherwise, a screenshot would help 🙂
ctrl-w + d doesn't work for me ... it says "no identifier under cursor" for me ... =(
if i put my cursor under < HTML > , it will say "couldn't find definition" ... =(
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