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Vacuuming Inside Computer?

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paul878 said:
You can get one of ebay for cheap if you really want one, but I think it is an overkill.

There are so many opinions on this subject someone did it THIS WAY and it didn't kill their system. The fact is that static don't always kill electronic right away, it damage it and shorten the life of semiconductors greatly, the problem might not show up a few months down the road. From personal experience there are lot of tech out there that have no understanding of what static electricity is.

That is how I was taught by major manufactures, a small $99 air compressor is the best investment you can make in this matter.
Click to expand...

I think....in the above, you nailed some VITAL data!!!! I do think people don understand static electricity; I do think this endeavor is often a crap shoot because of that! And, that in many instances, people just get lucky.
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Edit: OK....sorry to say, I am now, no more confident re going ahead with the vacuuming that I was. I have been looking....and I can't find one replacement board for this system so far online. Forget a test pull for little money.
If I fried this one....I would never get over it.
 
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Below, my Miele attachments and nozzle. See? NO METAL. The wand is metal, but, when U secure the attachments to the nozzle directly, there is no metal. (Not showing the power head, no point in this discussion.)
The Germans truly are uber engineers.

How does this seem re static electricity? How can I test these re static electricity conductivity???

263fo8j.jpg
 
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Really the only reason to clean the fan is if your computer is running hotter than what it should of the fan is really loud. If so compressed air is all you need unless you are an expert in computers and just take it apart.
 
alangrift said:
Really the only reason to clean the fan is if your computer is running hotter than what it should of the fan is really loud. If so compressed air is all you need unless you are an expert in computers and just take it apart.
Click to expand...

Well, I have taken infinite computers apart to repair, it's not hard, after all, unless we are dealing with a laptop you must undo soldering to get apart, and anyone with the right iron and flux and solder can deal with that too.

But I disagree re need to clear fully. I think there are good reasons to do thorough cleaning beyond compressed air, and it works back to the environment the system lives in.

For we who live in such as Manhattan, with the ongoing deluge of exhaust residue from thousands of vehicles, then it really is necessary every so often.

Wish it weren't.....but here, it is.
 
Virgorising said:
Well, I have taken infinite computers apart to repair, it's not hard, after all, unless we are dealing with a laptop you must undo soldering to get apart, and anyone with the right iron and flux and solder can deal with that too.

But I disagree re need to clear fully. I think there are good reasons to do thorough cleaning beyond compressed air, and it works back to the environment the system lives in.

For we who live in such as Manhattan, with the ongoing deluge of exhaust residue from thousands of vehicles, then it really is necessary every so often.

Wish it weren't.....but here, it is.
Click to expand...

You don't have to unsolder anything to take a laptop apart.
 
Pro-Tip: If you have a Canister type vacuum, you can always hook the hose to the 'exhaust' port.

I was astonished at how much dust / dirt /debris gets blown out by the large volume, low pressure method. Of course, I just switch the hose around to vacuum up the stuff I blew out.

If you've never cleaned out the 'coils' under a refrigerator, you don't realize how much 'stuff' gets caught up on them. Of course, if you have a dog or cat in the house you get a much worse clog. The design of the new coils doesn't lend itself to easy vacuuming, but, if you blow it out (especially with the exhaust of a vacuum) you'd be surprised at how clean it comes out. In the case of a refridgerator you get much more efficiency when the coils are clean. Since the refridgerator is typically the most energy hungry appliance in most homes, it can make a difference. It's still a small difference, but certainly a bigger difference than cleaning your PC.
 
deadken said:
Pro-Tip: If you have a Canister type vacuum, you can always hook the hose to the 'exhaust' port.
Click to expand...

GOOD, verging on GENIUS... IDEA!!!!:thumbsup: I am going to try this immediately!!:biggrin:

deadken said:
you've never cleaned out the 'coils' under a refrigerator, you don't realize how much 'stuff' gets caught up on them. Of course, if you have a dog or cat in the house you get a much worse clog. The design of the new coils doesn't lend itself to easy vacuuming, but, if you blow it out (especially with the exhaust of a vacuum) you'd be surprised at how clean it comes out. In the case of a refridgerator you get much more efficiency when the coils are clean. Since the refridgerator is typically the most energy hungry appliance in most homes, it can make a difference. It's still a small difference, but certainly a bigger difference than cleaning your PC.
Click to expand...

All of the above TRUE AND ALL IMPORTANT!

Most obvious, esp where I live, wherein I try to have the staff clean my huge A/C unit every two seasons, I do everything myself, but this I can't, given what is involved, unit (13,000 BTU) has to be pulled from its sleeve, taken in service elevator to basement to room with floor drain.

What builds up on the coils......is incredible and disgusting. Stresses the whole unit, starting with the compressor.🙁

Few mos ago, bought new fridge, carefully chosen. I like it a lot....plus, it is more energy efficient than the one I replaced! And U bet, important to keep the coils clean on them!!!
 
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Noo!!! Don't do that with a regular household vaccum you can SERIOUSLY damage your components through the production of Static Electricity.


If you are going to use a vaccuum with your computer, you need a special one, they are called low-airflow ESD i believe. They are designed to not create any static electricity.

If you're doing this, I'd recommend getting compressed air and spraying the various components, and simultaneously sucking up teh dust.
 
hextet said:
Noo!!! Don't do that with a regular household vaccum you can SERIOUSLY damage your components through the production of Static Electricity.


If you are going to use a vaccuum with your computer, you need a special one, they are called low-airflow ESD i believe. They are designed to not create any static electricity.

If you're doing this, I'd recommend getting compressed air and spraying the various components, and simultaneously sucking up teh dust.
Click to expand...

What if you wrapped the nozzle tip in foil and grounded it? Or wrapped the tip with latex (cut from gloves or something else).
 
I always just use my compressor and air nozzle and have never really had a problem. 120psi makes solving most any dust issue a snap.

Just make sure to always drain the water out of the compressor tank first. And, it is a good idea to hold fan blades stationary when blowing them off.

BTW, if you get a case fan spinning very fast, most definitely don't suddenly stop it. I can tell you from accidental experience that the cheap ones have a disturbing tendency to explode all over the place (which most definitely isn't a good thing within an enclosed computer case).
 
Steltek said:
I always just use my compressor and air nozzle and have never really had a problem. 120psi makes solving most any dust issue a snap.

Just make sure to always drain the water out of the compressor tank first. And, it is a good idea to hold fan blades stationary when blowing them off.

BTW, if you get a case fan spinning very fast, most definitely don't suddenly stop it. I can tell you from accidental experience that the cheap ones have a disturbing tendency to explode all over the place (which most definitely isn't a good thing within an enclosed computer case).
Click to expand...


Hey! Yes, I know about making sure fan doesn't spin......but please do not assume everyone has a compressor! I do, but only in the fridge and the A/C. Feeble joke.🙄

When I have time, as was suggested here, I plan to connect the hose to the exhaust of my Miele canister and see how that works blowing things out.
Sad but true: my traumatizing event way back, with my now backup desktop, wherein I used the vac before the Miele, it did have metal not nylon attachments....and fried the mobo and had to replace it......remains an open wound. I still despise myself for having done that, tho it showed me mobo replacement is a no brainer and l started doing that that for friends when the board was/is the issue......but that is still an open wound, that dumb thing I did i would have given anything to take back.
 
hextet said:
Noo!!! Don't do that with a regular household vaccum you can SERIOUSLY damage your components through the production of Static Electricity.


If you are going to use a vaccuum with your computer, you need a special one, they are called low-airflow ESD i believe. They are designed to not create any static electricity.

If you're doing this, I'd recommend getting compressed air and spraying the various components, and simultaneously sucking up teh dust.
Click to expand...

I agree! re still open wound from when I fried mobo of my now backup desktop a while back, and did my first mobo replacement.

As I just posted below, I now plan to put hose on the exhaust vent of my Miele canister, it has all nylon tools.....and see if the force of that trumps just using compressed air.
 
Plastic will hold a static charge at least as well as metal. Metal will discharge the static charge when it is grounded, fairly safely. Because plastic doesn't conduct, when it holds a static charge it discharges it almost as an arc (like an arc welder) once it gets close enough to something that will take the charge.

Air rushing over anything (a plane wing or a nozzle on a vacuum) will build up static charge... the problem with the vacuum tip inside a computer case is it doesn't need to even touch a component to discharge... just get close enough to arc into.
 
bononos said:
Nylon would build up static more easily. I would try using and grounding the metal nozzle instead.
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OMG. I did not know that. I remain atypically unclear on all of this. So good I am being as cautious as I am and honoring my still open wound.
 
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Charlie98 said:
Plastic will hold a static charge at least as well as metal. Metal will discharge the static charge when it is grounded, fairly safely. Because plastic doesn't conduct, when it holds a static charge it discharges it almost as an arc (like an arc welder) once it gets close enough to something that will take the charge.

Air rushing over anything (a plane wing or a nozzle on a vacuum) will build up static charge... the problem with the vacuum tip inside a computer case is it doesn't need to even touch a component to discharge... just get close enough to arc into.
Click to expand...


These are important data. Now, truth is, I have no idea what Miele attachments are made of! I said nylon, but they could simply be a strong species of plastic.

NOR did I KNOW that AIR RUSHING OVER ANYTHING.......will build up a static charge!

That about does away with my latest plan to attach the hose to the blower vent for velocity beyond what compressed air in a can can do.🙁

Thanks much for this.
 
Update:

I just send an email to Miele asking precisely what my attachments and hose nozzle are made of.....plastic, nylon, some hybrid?

Cause I now get it matters.

Chasing data is the thing. Will report the second I hear back.
______________________________________
Edit: naturally, I delved before I emailed Miele. I found nothing about what the attachments are made of, but I found below re one of mine, the long crevice tool which is wondrously flexible......says that part is vinyl.
http://www.thinkvacuums.com/miele/a...nts/sfd-20-extended-flexible-crevice-tool.php

From the above re this attachment:
Second of all, it is made of plastic, so its durability is guaranteed, but it is not that rigid plastic consumers are used to, but a much more flexible version which prevents breaks. In fact, the center section consists of soft vinyl and only the ends are rigid to withstand impact, this being the secret behind the increased flexibility and durability of this crevice tool.

I am happy that for once, I am being very cautious.
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Edit; OK I am startin to feel a little nauseated now.🙁 Hard to believe I am exploring the molecular composition of plastics and related compounds.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vinyl

I think the message is, I should just forget any vacuuming inside the box strategy, including using vac to blow things out, and stick with Old School, conservative and safe.

Cause I like having spare parts,I have already delved and learned replacement boards for this machine are almost impossible to find yet, unlike my previous Optis (and friends' systems I repair) where tested pulls for amazing prices were (still are) all over eBay.
 
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Update!🙂

I stand happily corrected....I just checked again, and now, finally... the mobos for this puppy are showing up on eBay!:biggrin:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Optipl...282822688?pt=Motherboards&hash=item4acdf2d220

I sleep better when I have spare parts. BUT, if I messed up a second time and fried THIS board as I did the one in my now backup Opti cause I vacuumed inside it.....I would never get over it EVER. No number of Hail Marys would help. One stupid was bad enuff.....but repeating same stupid? Not so much.🙁

But do feel better knowing the boards are showing up.:wub: And eventually, they will come down in price some. Or not.

The other one of the two now available:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Optipl...363755614?pt=Motherboards&hash=item3f2e8a4e5e

I feel better. JUST IN CASE, I mean.
 
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K....found mail from Miele in my Spam folder:



[FONT=&quot]Dear Xxxx,[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]The floor tools are made from ABS composites dipped in Anthracite Plasti Dip for added strength.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]If you have additional questions please contact one of our Customer Support Representatives at [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot](800)843-7231 or (800)463-0260[/FONT]

Thank you,

Charles Deloach
Senior Customer Spt. Tech
Miele, USA


WUT???????????????😱 Plus, I am positive I asked about attachments in general, not floor tools. I guess I should have asked specifically re static electricity with this material.

It believe the cybergod is telling me, NO, do not GO THERE, CHILL and stick to Old School so nothing disgusting happens to the board, cause you've been there and done that.
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Just sent this to Charles:
Hi, Charles:

Many thanks for the response. I am trying to determine the extent to which the SMALL attachments' material conducts static electricity.... with the goal of vacuuming safely inside one of my desktops.
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Jus found this....it echos what a smart person here shared and warned me about:
There are conductive plastics, though they do not conduct nearly as well as copper.
Also, most commercial plastic compositions are not pure polymer; they are filled [mixed with other stuff] to increase strength, lower cost, etc. Some fillers, such as graphite and carbon black, are conductive.
Besides that, all the charge had to do was travel over the surface, not through the body of the plastic.​

TOO RISKY! I guess I could spray the attachment....AND MYSELF with static guard. Kidding.😎 Tho might be an interesting experiment.
 
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Hah! Just found this which reiterates what a very sharp person said in this thread re not plastic, METAL and ground it! Tho I have always used comprssed air and never felt there was a danger and nothing bad has ever happened.

Oldfox
November 7, 2011 1:24:01 PM



I'm chocked how unknowing/ignorant some of you are:
EDS is the worst you can do to your computer !!! It's compared to welding on your electronic components - if you not destroy them immediately , they will suffer damages that can effect intermittent errors later on.
DON'T USE COMPRESSED AIR FOR CLEANING !!!
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Use a vacuum-cleaner with a metal pipe and ground the pipe with some copper-wire, don't get to close 6-10 as said before is OK.
Use a paintbrush to brush the dust of, and at all times use an grounding bracelet.

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Now found this!

http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/290794-28-grounding-vacuum-cleaner




​
 
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Well, nothing new here from Miele, just the usual obvious; I need to get rid of this desire I have to do this with no downside. I don't like living in fear of things, and my traumatic event made me fearful. But some things justify fear.

Dear J

For vacuuming the external parts of the computer there will be no problem. However, if you are cleaning internal parts I would follow standard practices insuring that anything that comes in contact with those components is grounded.

[FONT=&quot]Thank you,[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Charles Deloach[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Senior Customer Spt. Tech[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Miele, USA[/FONT]
 
I simply take my dirty machines to the garage and use air from my compressor to blow them out. I do use a small screwdriver to keep the fan blades from spinning. Lo and behold, I have yet to encounter a problem as a result of such cleanings.

It never occurred to me to fill a two page thread with that info.
 
Underclocked said:
I simply take my dirty machines to the garage and use air from my compressor to blow them out. I do use a small screwdriver to keep the fan blades from spinning. Lo and behold, I have yet to encounter a problem as a result of such cleanings.

It never occurred to me to fill a two page thread with that info.
Click to expand...


Indeed. Others here posted they employ the same brilliant strategy. I can feel it's ideal. Only thing, I live in an apartment. No garage, no compressor.

I will ask the guys tomorrow....the two Staff guys I am close to and adore, who do the repair work & painting in the building, if we have a compressor in the workshop. I think maybe not, but good to ask just in case. If so, I could just take this system to the basement and use it!

I borrow stuff I don't have all the time, i.e. the big belt sander (I only have an oscillating sander).... use the big vice and drill press in the workshop, etc.
 
There should be both.

A vacuum that is not in any contact with any components and a good distance away to still be able to suck up particulates AND a compressed air blower to blow caked dust to free it from the stuck surfaces to be airborne to be sucked by the vacuum.

Over time, the fans push and compress dust to the nooks and crannies of the computer case, surfaces of the board, etc. To remove it, you need to have something to dislodge the accumulative pressed material. Consumer vacuums only have so much force, and it was not designed to remove materials that are stuck to an almost glue like state.

The best mitigation, is to implement intake filters and regularly replace or clean them ALONG with a blowing and vacuuming of the inside of the case. The reason why most fans stop working over time, in my opinion, is the combined dust that accumulates thus the fan needs to work harder, eventually giving due to working with the imbalance of stuck dust on the blades, bearings, and congestion.

That or watercool everything, sealing the electronic components from the outside, and thus only needing to clean the dissipating radiator and fans.

Grounding the components and cleaning while the computer is off is a must.
 
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