Upgrading from Phenom II X6 1055T, need advice

[R0H1T]

I have a strong feeling that the PSU might be dying due to the constant load of an X6 & the fact that it's most probably a generic version with something like 60~70% efficiency. Therefore it maybe a case where your PSU needs replacement, especially looking at the symptoms you mentioned previously in particular the burning smell.

 

[chetansha]

They are availble on.flipkart
If you want kaveri core, you can buy from any us retailer and use ppobox to ship..amd provides global warranty.

 

[RussianSensation]

Very well said. I have an i5 with a hdd and it feels very fast to me. An ssd might cut off a few seconds here and there, but I am totally satisfied with my system, except I would like a faster video card, but that is another issue.

You might be only talking about game loading times but ignoring the impact of an SSD on the general system responsivnesss. The difference is monumental. I remember a site equated early SSD testing to moving from a Core i7 920 2.66Ghz to a 6.6-7Ghz 920. That's not fake either. If you are a power user, an SSD can easily be 4-6X faster in system responsinvess than a mechanical drive. Anand once said he refuses to use a system witout an SSD and I 100% agree.

I tested a Core 2 Duo E6600 with 70 tabs in Chrome/ForeFox + running Avast full system scan antivirus vs. my laptop with 3635QM and a mechanical drive. The Core 2 Duo SSD system crushed it in overall every day email/browsing/opening word/excel/PowerPoint/Adobe responsiveness. I've tested plenty of i5/7 combinations with a 7200 rpm drive and while they feel fast brand new, 6 months down the line after installing tons of apps, programs, media and game files, the HDD becomes such a bottleneck that even overclocking and dropping 16GB of RAM does little to help the system feel less sluggish as hell. If you are the type of user who makes coffee while the computer boots or opens 1-2 apps max and runs 5-10 browser windows at most, then maybe a mechanical drive is sufficient.

Moreso, a mechanical drive with 50-75 tabs + 10 MS docs + 5 Excel Files + 6 Adobe PDF files open simultaneously without restarting the computer for 10 days becomes completely unusuable with Not Responding browser errors, Adobe Flash crashes, etc. I've down this specific testing for months.

I would not call any modern rig modern without an SSD even if it has the 5960X in it. After using an SSD for years, I can tell how slow a system with a mechanical drive us by opening 10 tabs and 5 apps quickly and seeing a Core i7 4790K come to a crawl. Moreso, if you have a tons of apps and programs starting at launch, the SSD will load them 4-6X faster, which amounts to 30 seconds vs. 2-2.5 minutes in the real world.

In 2015 I would call any system running OS on a pure mechanical drive completely worthless:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=yQjc-XW0G7Y

If I had to use a modern desktop with a mechanical drive, I would become frustrated in 5 minutes. Considering a 120-128GB SSD is $70-75, it's a no brainer to get 3-6X the performance increase in overall system feel. Until you use an SSD extensively and then go back to a mechanical HDD, you don't realize how sad the latter system is. I don't know a single PC enthusiast that could ever go back to using a mechanical drive after running a semi-decent modern SSD/M.2 for the OS.

 

[dharmil007]

If that ~70C reading is definitely the CPU (confirm in BIOS) that is definitely wrong IMO. The vcore looks normal for stock, I just suspect that the HSF needs a cleanout.

What's the room temp, approximately?

My 960T at worst (ie. summer in the UK) with the stock HSF when idle was about 50C IIRC. These days I use an Arctic Freezer 13 HSF which knocked about 10C off the CPU temp.

Can you confirm the CPU frequency with a program like CPU-Z as well? www.cpuid.com
I just wonder whether CnQ is disabled or Windows is set to the stupid 'high performance' power profile or something similar.

Here you go :

 

[dharmil007]

I take it you're new to replacing/upgrading components? I think you should get someone you trust & let him examine your system, to see where the fault lies, also that PSU seems inadequate for an X6. You can try opening up the case (OR cabinet as it's called here) & troubleshoot the system yourself but do this only if you're confident in handling the components properly & not get electrocuted in the process.

Yea i also think my PSU is inadequate.
I am planning to Buy Antec BP300P
Is it enough for this ?
i am not a novice, i can replace/upgrade components.
But i cannot find a solution to this error.
i narrowed it down to 2 things : either MOBO or PSU.

I have a strong feeling that the PSU might be dying due to the constant load of an X6 & the fact that it's most probably a generic version with something like 60~70% efficiency. Therefore it maybe a case where your PSU needs replacement, especially looking at the symptoms you mentioned previously in particular the burning smell.

I have already replace my PSU for like 6 times (as its in warranty).
Is Antec BP300P adeqaute or do i need 450W ?

 

[R0H1T]

I have already replace my PSU for like 6 times (as its in warranty).
Is Antec BP300P adeqaute or do i need 450W ?

Seems like the most likely culprit to me. If you can get it replaced with another brand name PSU by adding some more money that'd be even better. I suggest take that PSU to where you bought it from, add some money & get a Seasonic, Antec or any other trusted brand which fits your budget, also get an aftermarket cooler.

I'll add one other piece of advise, the shop where you got the PSU from will probably charge you 200/- at most for a visit to your place. Get someone from that shop to clean your system & replace the PSU & the stock cooler. These two things can be reused later on, so you should change at least one of these components asap i.e. PSU.

 

[lopri]

1.52V @800 MHz? Either you set something wrong in the BIOS or the board is giving too much voltage. Way, way, too much. I do not know how long it has been like that but it does not surprise me that you are experiencing heat/power issue. That chip should operate normally ~1.30V at its max frequency, and around 1.0V while at 800 MHz.

 

[dharmil007]

1.52V @800 MHz? Either you set something wrong in the BIOS or the board is giving too much voltage. Way, way, too much. I do not know how long it has been like that but it does not surprise me that you are experiencing heat/power issue. That chip should operate normally ~1.30V.

Any solution to this thing ?

 

[dharmil007]

Seems like the most likely culprit to me. If you can get it replaced with another brand name PSU by adding some more money that'd be even better. I suggest take that PSU to where you bought it from, add some money & get a Seasonic, Antec or any other trusted brand which fits your budget, also get an aftermarket cooler.

I'll add one other piece of advise, the shop where you got the PSU from will probably charge you 200/- at most for a visit to your place. Get someone from that shop to clean your system & replace the PSU & the stock cooler. These two things can be reused later on, so you should change at least one of these components asap i.e. PSU.

i Would not mind spending even 500bucks for that, but there is not a good technician who can solve this issue.
They are just like idiots who dont know anything.
They just clean and say everything is fine.
This days its hard to find someone good, as anyone can become a so-called "Computer technician"

 

[R0H1T]

Enter BIOS, tap DEL before Windows boot up, look for something like Vcore (under one of the settings tab) & lower the voltage to ~1.3 I guess. If it isn't a fixed value then lower the upper limit to something like ~1.35V, I haven't dealt with these AMD mobos recently so can't say where exactly you'll find the voltage settings but it should be easy enough once you enter the BIOS.

 

[lopri]

Gigabyte boards call the overclocking page "M.I.T.," iirc. See if things are set to auto in that page once you go into the BIOS.

 

[Magic Carpet]

If that ~70C reading is definitely the CPU (confirm in BIOS) that is definitely wrong IMO. The vcore looks normal for stock, I just suspect that the HSF needs a cleanout.

You may have overlooked the values from the screen. 1.536v is way too high for a stock 1055T.

OP, see if you can reset BIOS to default values and / or update it to a different version. For some reason, the board is giving your processor more juice than necessary. No surprise, your Thuban experience has been somewhat frustrating. I know, what this fan sounds like at ~5K RPM.

My processor idles @ 0.89v and loads @ 1.035v, for instance. You won't get near as low numbers but, <= 1.2v should be realistic for your 125W SKU.

2) With enough voltage drop, it should run fairly quiet at ~1.5K RPM. You need some time to play with the settings, though.

3) As others have suggested, make sure your box is clean, as the dust build up can severely hamper the effectiveness of your cooling system.

Whenever i restart or start the pc immediately after shutdown, all the fans roate and there is power in CPU but there is no signal on the screen.
If i keep it that way for another 30-40secs then there is burning smell from the inside of the CPU, so i am forced to cut the power.
Then after say 10 mins it starts normally again.[/B]

Burning smell? That's "what" killed one of my AMD boards. But hey, it still works. Mine didn't. Consider yourself lucky.

 

[frozentundra123456]

You might be only talking about game loading times but ignoring the impact of an SSD on the general system responsivnesss. The difference is monumental. I remember a site equated early SSD testing to moving from a Core i7 920 2.66Ghz to a 6.6-7Ghz 920. That's not fake either. If you are a power user, an SSD can easily be 4-6X faster in system responsinvess than a mechanical drive. Anand once said he refuses to use a system witout an SSD and I 100% agree.

I tested a Core 2 Duo E6600 with 70 tabs in Chrome/ForeFox + running Avast full system scan antivirus vs. my laptop with 3635QM and a mechanical drive. The Core 2 Duo SSD system crushed it in overall every day email/browsing/opening word/excel/PowerPoint/Adobe responsiveness. I've tested plenty of i5/7 combinations with a 7200 rpm drive and while they feel fast brand new, 6 months down the line after installing tons of apps, programs, media and game files, the HDD becomes such a bottleneck that even overclocking and dropping 16GB of RAM does little to help the system feel less sluggish as hell. If you are the type of user who makes coffee while the computer boots or opens 1-2 apps max and runs 5-10 browser windows at most, then maybe a mechanical drive is sufficient.

Moreso, a mechanical drive with 50-75 tabs + 10 MS docs + 5 Excel Files + 6 Adobe PDF files open simultaneously without restarting the computer for 10 days becomes completely unusuable with Not Responding browser errors, Adobe Flash crashes, etc. I've down this specific testing for months.

I would not call any modern rig modern without an SSD even if it has the 5960X in it. After using an SSD for years, I can tell how slow a system with a mechanical drive us by opening 10 tabs and 5 apps quickly and seeing a Core i7 4790K come to a crawl. Moreso, if you have a tons of apps and programs starting at launch, the SSD will load them 4-6X faster, which amounts to 30 seconds vs. 2-2.5 minutes in the real world.

In 2015 I would call any system running OS on a pure mechanical drive completely worthless:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=yQjc-XW0G7Y

If I had to use a modern desktop with a mechanical drive, I would become frustrated in 5 minutes. Considering a 120-128GB SSD is $70-75, it's a no brainer to get 3-6X the performance increase in overall system feel. Until you use an SSD extensively and then go back to a mechanical HDD, you don't realize how sad the latter system is. I don't know a single PC enthusiast that could ever go back to using a mechanical drive after running a semi-decent modern SSD/M.2 for the OS.

I dont think it is accurate to generalize for everyone. I use my computer for internet, Office and gaming. I rarely have more than 2 or 3 programs open and the same for internet tabs. It can take a few seconds for the program to open, but after rebooting and opening once, they are stored in memory and open almost instantaneously. Same for chrome and firefox. I dont do any heavy duty file transfers. I rarely turn my PC off, instead, use sleep mode, only rebooting once a week or so to clear out everything. So boot times are not an issue either. In fact, I would say most people's use, minus gaming is more like mine than that of most of the users here who are power users. Over a week, I cant imagine that I spend more than one or two minutes waiting for programs to open. Just not a big deal to me. The only case where I am beginning to think an SSD would be worth it is game loading, after the interminable load screens of DA:I. But for a general light user with a 7200 rpm HDD, plenty of memory, and a fast cpu, I think the experience can be fine.

 

[dharmil007]

Does anyone know a good software for undervolting/underclocking ?

 

[Magic Carpet]

Does anyone know a good software for undervolting/underclocking ?

You can do that from inside your BIOS. That is the best way.

Some boards don't allow any undervolting. In which case, you can use software like K10stat. The best undervolting mainboard I have had is MSI 785GM-E65 (not suitable for even moderate overvolting though). Nothing is perfect.

2) When your board dies, maybe then you can consider a whole platform upgrade. Alternatively, MSI 970 Gaming is quite decent and cheap. But you need a discreet video card with that. Otherwise, I'd build a new system around something like an i5-4590 (on die graphics is quite good actually) and a quality Z97 board with at least 6 power phases.

 

[tweakboy]

Or possible BIOS update might fix this. gb

 

[mikeymikec]

CPU-Z's reporting of the CPU clock speed is fine, the CPU temp however is approximately double what it ought to be.

 

[dharmil007]

Guys, based on the discussion
i have ordered a new SMPS Corsair VS450
after all these discussion, i am not sure if i would change my mobo-CPU.

I am a hell lot of more confused, then i was when i posted here.
But its good, as i got a lot of knowledge.
Still few questions unanswered.

 

[mikeymikec]

@ OP

Forget about undervolting until you've resolved the main issues, one way or another:

1 - Burning smell - probably from the power supply
2 - CPU temperature - it won't be the CPU burning unless the too-high temp being reported isn't high enough (v. unlikely IMO, that sensor goes up to about 126C IIRC)

OP, did you build this computer? How much computer hardware work have you done? I would feel uncomfortable telling someone what to do if they don't have any experience working inside a computer.

- edit - I've just seen the post above this one - OK, a new PSU is probably a good idea (if the burning smell comes from it). the CPU heatsink probably needs vacuum-cleaning, if you feel up to it. You ought to be able to see the heatsink fins beneath the CPU fan, there should be no dust clogging those fins. You probably can't see the fins at all or mostly dust, which is bad.

 

[dharmil007]

@ OP

Forget about undervolting until you've resolved the main issues, one way or another:

1 - Burning smell - probably from the power supply
2 - CPU temperature - it won't be the CPU burning unless the too-high temp being reported isn't high enough (v. unlikely IMO, that sensor goes up to about 126C IIRC)

OP, did you build this computer? How much computer hardware work have you done? I would feel uncomfortable telling someone what to do if they don't have any experience working inside a computer.

Yes i built this computer.
I assembled the parts from different local shops and built it at my home.
i cannot say i am expert at this, but a novice neither.
I know my way around this things.

 

[Headfoot]

Replace power supply. Unplug the whole computer, then remove the battery on the motherboard. Let it sit for a few minutes. Then put the battery back into the motherboard. You will be reset to factory settings and your CPU will not be running at such a high voltage and it will be less hot.

 

[dharmil007]

@ OP
- edit - I've just seen the post above this one - OK, a new PSU is probably a good idea (if the burning smell comes from it). the CPU heatsink probably needs vacuum-cleaning, if you feel up to it. You ought to be able to see the heatsink fins beneath the CPU fan, there should be no dust clogging those fins. You probably can't see the fins at all or mostly dust, which is bad.

Yea there is lots of dust in my MOBO & CPU HeatSink.
I was trying to find a solution to clean that.
Any Ideas/Suggestion ?

 

[weez82]

Use a can of compressed air. Take the pc outside, take off both side panels and blow out the dust.

Also after reading all the post, I agree with everyone else. Sounds like you need a new power supply. A quality one. A power supply is one of the most important components. If it goes bad it could take other parts with it.

Another thing I would do is reset the bios. Read your motherboard manual to find out how to do that. It's very easy and should take care of your cpu volt problem. Then after resetting the bios go in and change any options you feel need changing. But leave the cpu setting on auto.

And last thing I would do is get an aftermarket cpu cooler if you can find a good one for a good price. I used a cooler master 212 plus on my phenom II x4 965 140w and temps never went above 55c.

 

[mikeymikec]

Yea there is lots of dust in my MOBO & CPU HeatSink.
I was trying to find a solution to clean that.
Any Ideas/Suggestion ?

Unplug PC from mains, run a vacuum cleaner nozzle on the heatsink until all the visible dust is cleared out, and just so we're on the same page, the CPU heatsink is this guy:

Big metal fins with a fan on top.

As far as the rest of the inside of the PC goes, feel free to vacuum clean it out, just avoid touching circuit boards and board contacts.

 

[lopri]

If you are going to fix the CPU voltages in the BIOS, you should also manually change the voltage for CPU-NB (CPU NB VID). A lot of boards set the same voltage for CPU and CPU-NB when left auto, and this is so wrong because CPU-NB's default voltage is 1.10V for default 2000 MHz frequency of Thuban CPUs. If you are not overclocking, manually set the CPU-NB VID to 1.10V and test stability. This will lower the temperature by a few more degrees.