I agree and disagree with this. If I see a review or showdown of the best GPU's available, I think everything should be done to remove potential bottlenecks. I think it's also great - as you point out - to have a frame of reference to see how the same GPU's perform on lesser, stock clocked processors, but I do think buying a high end GPU for a CPU-limited system can be, in a sense, a future investment for some.
I totally agree that review sites should showcase them in their best light, GPU limited, try and remove every bottleneck they can.
But for most consumers, that's not particularly informative. You pretty much need to do both.
Most people don't have SSDs, most people don't have 4GHz i7's, most people have regular computers.
If there are two cards which seem close in performance when tested as review sites test them, that might not play out in a real world situation where you have a slow hard drive, a slower processor etc. That's what people need to know as well, and that is especially true when you move away from the super high end.
Thinking someone who's going to purchase SLI GTX480s or an HD5970 would have an i7 and maybe overclock it and maybe have an SSD, that's reasonable.
To assume someone buying an HD5850 or GTX would have the same? Not so much. Those are more reasonably priced cards, and people with normal systems might want to buy them, and if someone says to get one over the other because it seems to perform better (e.g. GTX470 over HD5850) but for a realistic system it doesn't perform any better, the person would be wasting money.
Same could go for GTX470 vs HD5870. If you have $400, you might think to get the "faster" HD5870, but it might not actually be any faster on a real computer, they might perform equally well, so you'd be throwing away $50. Or maybe you would be throwing away more because even an HD5850 would struggle, and you should spend $150 on a new CPU instead.
Basically most reviews are bunk for regular people in terms of being good buying guides. They are only really good for people who are at the high end with top everything, since they don't take into consideration potential things like people running lesser processors.