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Did you take this with "vivid" colour mode? Cos they look a bit saturated... >>
I also noticed that on my s330, but I turned off the effects. I've been experimenting with it over the past three weeks and I'm regretting selling my CoolPix. For a P&S camera, it sure takes a lot of tweaking to get my pictures looking right. I now have it set on -1 exposure and only use it in manual mode to get anything looking "right"

to me. I've got to give Canon kudos for pictures in low ambient light that my CoolPix really sucked at. There are a few things I thought they might have been able to do easily that would have made it better for me.
* Orientation sensor doesn't cause the picture to be saved in the right orientation, only meant for DISPLAY!!! When I view it on my computer, I have to rotate my pics all over again:< If they can detect the orientation, they could theoretically read the pixels from the CCD into the SRAM in the "correct" order before saving the image.
* Worse yet, orientation sensor doesn't work for movie mode, so all the movies I took sideways now have to be played sideways in Windows Media Player:< Maybe it's a processor bandwidth issue or a limitation of the CCD read function, but if it was only a software development cost, it would have made the camera so much more useable.
(Then again, I haven't gotten through the whole instruction manual, so correct me if I just haven't figured it out

)
* A manual setting to control the number of seconds it takes for me to turn the darned thing on. 1.3 seems a little long at times especially if there's a padded area on my camera case to prevent accidental button pushes.
* This last one may be because I have extremely shaky hands

, but at extreme telephoto, minute shaking causes the AI to get confused and it can take a long time for the picture to actually be taken. I've noticed that it happens in low ambient light conditions even in wide-angle too.