Unlocking my Duron 800

[Cat]

When I originally built my new system a few months ago, I decided that I really didn't have a need to overclock. I've now decided that I'd like an extra 150 or so megahertz, but I'm not sure if it'll 1.) be that noticeable, or 2.) easy.

System:
KT7
Duron800, retail HS/F.
256MB of Kingston ValueRAM, rated at PC100, but I've used it at 133.
CL GeForce2 GTS, 32MB.


I've got to remove the HS/F to pencil in the L1 bridges. Is this relatively easy? Will I have to go grab some more thermal paste, or can I just resit the sink?

I mainly use this PC for VC++, Counter-Strike, and playing music. Is it really worth it to try to overclock, taking into account my system specs?

Do I need to pencil in the bridges controlling the voltage, or is the voltage modifiable from my BIOS w/o doing it?

Thanks

 

[Pederv]

You'll probably notice less jerkyness in gameing scenes with a lot of action and faster compile times of programs. It is prefered to replace the compound but not necesary. Using a pencil can cause intermitent problems, after all it's not made for creating conductive traces. If you are patient you can get it to work reliably. Most people trying for a reliable means to short the bridges use a conductive pen or a defogger repair kit. I pulled out the magnifying glass and a solder iron. In most cases the L1 bridges are all you'll have to modify.

 

[Brian07]

I suggest using the rear window defogger method for unlocking because I had a bit of trouble with the pencil trick. Tons of others are using the pencil method just fine, so either method will most likely do what you want. Remove the cpu, connect the bridges and I highly suggest putting new compound on the chip before re installing the heat sink. The L1 connect allows you to change your multiplier, your voltage adjustments will be done via the bios of the motherboard(along withe the fsb and multiplier)



Brian07

 

[Vyle]

Don't forget about getting better cooling, too!