Unicomp Customizer vs IBM Model M

[maniaugustine]

Awesome, thanks for the quick reply! I'm really glad to hear that, because I just purchased one of the new Unicomp boards myself. Hopefully it will get here soon and I will let you know what I think. It sounds like a great piece of hardware.


All the best,
*Mani

 

[looper]

I 'grew up' w/ the IBM model M when I worked for that company. I have two IBM's set aside.

I recently bought a 'DasKeyboard Professional' which is my daily KB. I love it.

http://www.daskeyboard.com/

 

[betablue89115]

Hi,

I currently have an IBM Model M and there's no way I would exchange it with a non-buckling spring keyboard. However, the lack of a Windows key, which I used to see as a pro but lately has become more of a con, is tempting me to get another keyboard. I've read about the Unicomp customizer keyboards that use buckling spring technology bought from IBM, but I'm wondering if anyone has had experience with both of them. I have a few questions:

1. Do them feel exactly the same?
2. Are they as durable?
3. Are the keys removable like the Model M?
4. Is the cable detachable like the Model M?
5. Are they as heavy as the Model M?

The price is kinda steep, but if it matches up to the Model M then I wouldn't mind spending money on it.

Thanks!

One of the neat things about these keyboards is the longevity. From whay I hear, the Unicomp is just not the same keyboard. Sure, they still use the same keyswitches (according to their site), but the just don't have the same "feel". I can't place the difference though. I do have a solution for your Windows key issue though. Look for a program called SharpKeys. It is a free program for mapping keys in Windows. I used it and in only a few seconds, I remapped my left control key to be a Windows key. That way I still maintain my model M, but add Windows functionality. Hope this helps.

 

[betablue89115]

To be honest, I prefer my Unicomp a bunch more. The Model M I have is nice, for sure, but the Unicomp feels just slightly better. It's also less twangy and pingy -- not sure if this is all due to the Unicomp being newer, or what. The M also requires just a little more effort to depress a key. There's a sort of. . .firmness with it. The Unicomp, in comparison, has the perfect amount of resistance.

Either way, I like the Unicomp so much I ordered a SpaceSaver this week. I think the M is going to go into storage.

And the issues of build quality, etc, the Unicomp is still _very_ well made in the grand scheme of things. You're not going to sit down at a Unicomp and be dissapointed in the build quality unless you're a total keyboard whore and slight effects from the injection moulding are visible. It still weighs a ton, types like a dream and has the exact type of tactile feedback you want in a buckling spring board.

Keep in mind that different Ms feel differently. You could have two models manufactured within days of each other and one is slightly more enjoyable than the other.

If you're really into keyboards, I think you should buy a used M pre 1993, a new in-box, never used M (IBM or lexmark made is fine), and a pair of Unicomps. Switch them around, find out which ones work best and save the ones you don't prefer for parts/backup.

I just read your post on this thread and amm curious about something. Is the pinging you hear on the model M from the steal plate inside? And does the Unicomp board have the same plate or is it made of plastic? I am wondering because I just got my model M about 2 weeks ago. I went through a lot of hoops and hurldes to get it and I love the feel immensly. So much so, that when I went back to work on Monday, I thought there was something wrong with my keyboard at the office where we're using HP rubber dome membrane keyboards.

 

[bobbozzo]

One of the neat things about these keyboards is the longevity. From whay I hear, the Unicomp is just not the same keyboard. Sure, they still use the same keyswitches (according to their site), but the just don't have the same "feel". I can't place the difference though. I do have a solution for your Windows key issue though. Look for a program called SharpKeys. It is a free program for mapping keys in Windows. I used it and in only a few seconds, I remapped my left control key to be a Windows key. That way I still maintain my model M, but add Windows functionality. Hope this helps.

Hi,

Thanks for the tip about SharpKeys.

I have a few Lexmark and IBM Model M's, but the Lexmark (circa 1994) at work died recently when I spilled bottled water on it (I've tried flushing with distilled water but no luck)...

So, a couple weeks ago, I got a Unicomp Ultra Classic UB40P4A for work, and am still using a Lexmark Model M at home.

I like the smaller case (still full-sized keys and spacing); it allows me to have the mouse closer to reach, etc.

Minor gripes:
1. the key quality is definitely lower than the Lexmark and IBM's...

a. there's a lot of 'wiggle' (left-right, forward-back, and rotational) in most of the keys. This is not really noticeable in use.

b. the key presses feel 'grittier', as if the plastic 'pistons' aren't well polished. I guess I'm getting used to it, as it's not really noticeable anymore (but right now I tried keys I rarely use to rule out 'breaking-in'.

c. on the bottom row, not all keys are the same height, e.g. the left win-key is lower than ctrl; and the spacebar and right win-key are even lower. I did not notice this until today, so it is probably not worth worrying about.

d. the left-shift is MUCH softer (in feel and sound) than other keys. However, the Lexmark I replaced had a similar problem. I don't think the Lexmark at home has this problem though. Maybe the spring is weak.


2. the right windows-key is next to the spacebar, which is different than other keyboards I've seen. This could be confusing for people who use the right alt-key (I don't use the right win-key or alt).
Unfortunately, swapping the keycap with alt is not possible, as the caps are different sizes.

3. the 'properties' or 'menu' key on the right (between alt and ctrl) is smaller than on most other keyboards. As this is my first windows keyboard, I haven't started using it yet, but I may map right-alt to the same function.


Conclusion:
I probably still have an extra, working, Lexmark Model M, but the Unicomp is good enough, and I would probably buy another one if I had to.

For home, I am going to keep using my Lexmark Model M for now, and will try to map a key (maybe caps lock or right-alt) to the win-key as I'm starting to use Win8.1 and there are a lot more winkey shortcuts than there are in XP.

For those using IBM/Lexmark Model M's, they do work with 'active' PS/2 -> USB adapters. I have one from TrendNet which works.

Bob

 

[Ben90]

Are there any NKRO buckling spring boards aside from the Model F? I really want a BS board, but would really prefer new and at least 5KRO is a must for me. I'm pretty sure Unicomp is the only one with the patents, but I saw a couple of names in this thread that I haven't heard before so just thought I would ask.

 

[bobbozzo]

Are there any NKRO buckling spring boards aside from the Model F? I really want a BS board, but would really prefer new and at least 5KRO is a must for me. I'm pretty sure Unicomp is the only one with the patents, but I saw a couple of names in this thread that I haven't heard before so just thought I would ask.

I used to game a lot (Doom, Quake, Half-Life, CS) on my IBM & Lexmark Model M's, and never had a problem.
Unicomp says they follow the same spec as IBM and Microsoft.
It is possible that USB models have less key rollover, but you could always get a PS/2 model.

Bob

 

[bobbozzo]

I just tested my USB Unicomp at http://www.gigahype.com/nkey-rollover-test-page/ ...

I can hold down W (or S), A, D, CTRL, SHIFT, and Space at the same time, no problem.
ALT is missing from that test.

I cannot hold down W, A, S AND D at the same time, but that is very hard to do with one hand anyways.

Bob

 

[bobbozzo]

My 't' key on my Unicomp started doubling yesterday; still doing it a little today... contacting Unicomp now...

Bob

 

[Wall Street]

My 't' key on my Unicomp started doubling yesterday; still doing it a little today... contacting Unicomp now...

Bob

Did you try pulling the keycap and reattaching it?

 

[betablue89115]

I have also found that pulling the key cap and replacing it, solves a lot of problems. If, and only if that doesn't resolve the issue, then contact Unicomp. I had a problem with my bolt-modded Model M keyboard. I followed their instructions to send them my keyboard along with a $35.00 payment. Unicomp completely rebuilt my trusty keyboard and replaced the membrane backing, cleaned it inside and out, and now my keyboard has its original feel, and sound because they kept the heavy steel backer in place. My Model M is in my experience, better than new. Hope this helps.