Tualatin or P3-1GHz 133FSB

[Auric]

'cause it has the highest potential performance by way of the highest FSB to reach the same CPU limits. If they all do 1500 with a basic heatsink then the 1.1 allows a 133 FSB, while 1.30 only 115.

 

[ParatoOptimal]

Wouldn't oc'ing give me
1.1a = 11x133 = 1463
1.20 = 12x133 = 1596
1.30 = 13x133 = 1729

 

[Auric]

Well, it seems the CPU quality was fairly uniform so it can generally be assumed that the same system with any of the models can reach the same CPU limit and thus it is the potential frequency of the RAM which is the primary limiting factor and basis upon which the CPU should be chosen. This assumes the chipset potential is a given since it was designed for 133 and has little problem clocking higher and that the mobo has options to maintain independent APG/PCI freq's and maybe increase CPU voltage (not overly important). So the better the RAM (and less so cooling since the requirement is not great) the slower the model CPU should be chosen so that the FSB can be increased the greatest before hitting the CPU limit.

 

[ParatoOptimal]

Oh, I see. They're all divisors of 1500 rather than multiplse of 133.

Does anyone know of a place selling one cheaper than $57 or $51?
I don't know if I can trust the store with it for $51.
$57 is getting up there after shipping and buying the adapter with shipping from another store.

Thanks

 

[ParatoOptimal]

So then, is the 1.0 preferable to the 1.1?

I found both of them for $43.

I find some with an "A" as in 1.1A.
Is there a difference between the "A" and non-"A" versions or is it just that some stores don't bother to list the "A"?

Thanks

 

[Auric]

No, your multipliers were correct and I was just using 1500 as an example of a maximum (though modest) attainable speed.

The letter suffix designates a core change from a previous model with the same clocks. 1.0 and 1.1 are Coppermine (1.1 being the last). 1.1A is the first Tualatin which as you know is preferred.

Compare your rig to those in the overclockers database for the 1.1A, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4 to help decide which is best. If you do not want to overlock the chipset or cannot retain sync beyond 133, then perhaps the 1.2 would be best, being a l'il faster but without too much of a gamble and the cheapest price to boot (from those you listed).

 

[Zap]

Your motherboard does not officially support the Tualatin chip, so you'd need the adaptor if you use one. How do you know what you are buying is a Tualatin chip? Look for .13 micron description. Look for Celerons with 256K cache. Look for Celerons 1.2GHz or higher. Look for Celeron 1.0A or 1.1A (ones without "A" are Coppermine). Look for P3 at 1.2GHz or higher. Look for P3 with 512K cache. I'm not sure about the markings on overlapping P3 chips.

I have two recommendations for you.

#1 Overclock your current setup to 667MHz by changing FSB to 133. Your setup should be able to do this without breaking a sweat.

#2 Replace your current motherboard/CPU/RAM with a cheap Duron/Sempron setup from Fry's Electronics. If there isn't a Fry's near you, order from Outpost.com. Current deal is a Duron 1.6GHz with an ECS motherboard for $39.99. Add a $50 (after rebate) stick of 512MB RAM and you've got a decent $90 setup. You'll also get working USB 2.0 ports, plus you can sell off your old mobo/CPU/RAM in the For Sale forum here and recoup some of your costs.

 

[ParatoOptimal]

I'm now running at 133/133/33.
It seems GREAT with no problems so far.

How are ECS MOBO's?
I'm pretty close to getting a Tualeron and an adapter.
I don't currently have any USB2.0 devices.
I am using a USB2.0 powered hub connected to one of my working USB1.0 (maybe 1.1) ports. A second working USB port accomodates my IBM Media Keyboard which has two USB ports built into it.