Tools required for front end replacement

[96Firebird]

Sometime in the coming weeks, I plan on replacing a lot of parts on the front end of my 2003 Buick Park Ave. I'm waiting for it to stop snowing and the salt to be washed off the roads so I can drive my Trans Am in case something goes awry and I can't drive the Buick.

I want to me sure I have all the tools I'll need prior to starting. I will be replacing both lower control arms, both tie rod ends, both sway bar links (maybe bushings as well), both struts, front brake pads, and a wheel bearing on one side. I will be using Auto Zone rent-a-tool for the 34mm axle nut, but other than that I'm wondering if there are any other "specialty" tools I'll need. From what I've gathered, I should be all set, but there might be something I'm missing... I have an air impact, cordless impact, plenty of standard size impact sockets and adapters, PB Blaster, etc...

Anything else I should consider before tackling this job?

 

[NutBucket]

I'd figure out how easy or hard it is to install new bushings. Sometimes you need a press. Getting them out is the easy part.

Speaking of that, have you got a torch for those extra stubborn fasteners?

 

[jlee]

You may need a press for the wheel bearing, depending on how it's set up. You may also need a pickle fork for the tie rod ends, but sometimes you can smack the end of the bolt portion with a hammer and pop it out. FYI this will destroy the threads unless you put a nut on the end and hit that instead.

 

[boomerang]

Wheel bearing is probably retained in the knuckle with torx fasteners. It's not always easy to get a straight shot at them with the CV shaft in place and it can be very easy to break a torx bit because of that. They are tight but seem to get tighter with age.

Your biggest problem may be removing the through bolts retaining the strut to the knuckle. In some GM models they were a splined interference fit and combined with age, salt, rust, etc., they can be a real bitch. I did one strut job with those type of bolts and swore off ever doing another. I had an air hammer that the bolts just laughed at.

 

[96Firebird]

The sway bar bushings aren't hard, basically just two bolts per that hold a bracket around the bushing onto the engine cradle. The rubber bushing itself just opens up and goes around the sway bar.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01D8VLZ88/

Still undecided on changing those, wanna get a look at them before buying. My end links are gone on both sides, so the sway bar is just kind of sitting there...

Good point in the torch, I've been meaning to pick one up.

I don't mind destroying the ball joint thread since I'm replacing the lower control arms, which include new ball joints.

Also, the wheel bearing is actually the whole hub assembly, so no press needed. This will be the 4th wheel bearing (2 on each side) to go on this car in 40k miles, so I'm hoping all these replaced parts and an alignment will solve that issue.

 

[boomerang]

If you're doing all this work you might want to look at the mounts for the subframe. The rubber may have deteriorated. Understand that I have no knowledge of this being a problem but it you're tightening up the front end and the subframe is wallerin' around, it will defeat the purpose of the whole job.

 

[Dr. Detroit]

If you have not replaced your axles, I would plan on doing those while you've got all this torn apart.

 

[mindless1]

Also, the wheel bearing is actually the whole hub assembly, so no press needed. This will be the 4th wheel bearing (2 on each side) to go on this car in 40k miles, so I'm hoping all these replaced parts and an alignment will solve that issue.

Use a torque wrench. Most common cause of premature wheel bearing failure is incorrect torque (or crap quality, get a different brand if it wasn't OEM).

 

[96Firebird]

I will take a look at the other components tomorrow, if it ever stops snowing... From what I remember when I changed my wheel bearing a couple months ago, the CV shaft on the passenger side looked fine, no tears in the boots. I'm guessing the driver's side is the same, but will take a look.

And I've learned my lesson on the wheel hubs, but I think part of my issue is everything else in the front end is failing and causing my wheel bearings to fail prematurely. I finally spent a bit more on an AcDelco (made in USA) hub assembly for the one I put in in January, and ordered another off eBay for this job. Unfortunately, they sent me a relabeled part that was for the Mexican market which was made in China. So I'm sending that back. They literally put a sticker that had the US part number over the actual sticker that had the Mexican market part number...

This time I think I'm going to get a Moog hub assembly from Advance Auto, just to make warranty swapping easier. It's a little bit more money, but I think it will be worth it.

And I torqued my most recent install to the 118ft lb spec, so hopefully that helps it last longer... Also getting new axle nuts, just for the hell of it.

 

[NutBucket]

If you have not replaced your axles, I would plan on doing those while you've got all this torn apart.

Bad advice. Axles typically don't fail unless you abuse the heck out of them and cheap rebuilds are just that. I've learned my lesson and just replace boots as necessary. It's not hard.

 

[dave_the_nerd]

...breaker bar?

 

[96Firebird]

I do have a breaker bar, 1/2" drive I believe. Cheapo from Harbor Freight, but it should get the job done. I'm hoping my impacts take care of most of the stubborn bolts.

 

[twinrider1]

Wouldn't hurt to hit it with the PB Blaster a few times in the days before you work on it.