Tools = expensive!

[spidey07]

Originally posted by: iamwiz82

Originally posted by: spidey07

Originally posted by: myusername

Originally posted by: Antisocial Virge
If I ever see anyone using a torque wrench installing tires I always think "should not be working on the car" in the back of my head.

Jeeps have problems with warping rotors if the lugnuts aren't torqued evenely and to spec.

shens.

No, that's true. It's a known issue with Grand Cherokees.

really? I just assumed any car would have problems with their rotors if the lugs weren't attached/torqued properly.

 

[iamwiz82]

Originally posted by: spidey07

Originally posted by: iamwiz82

Originally posted by: spidey07

Originally posted by: myusername

Originally posted by: Antisocial Virge
If I ever see anyone using a torque wrench installing tires I always think "should not be working on the car" in the back of my head.

Jeeps have problems with warping rotors if the lugnuts aren't torqued evenely and to spec.

shens.

No, that's true. It's a known issue with Grand Cherokees.

really? I just assumed any car would have problems with their rotors if the lugs weren't attached/torqued properly.

Its really a combination of poor torqueing, undersized rotors, and a heavy vehicle. Jeep axles are all interchangable, so the rotors are perfect for an old Cherokee of Wrangler, they are too small for a heavier vehicle with more power.

 

[Gillbot]

Originally posted by: Black88GTA

Originally posted by: Gillbot
I bought two of these when they were $9.99:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=239

Took them to work and put them on our tester and they were more accurate than my sears. I've been using them for about 4 years now with ZERO issues. Granted, they are not top quality but for $9.99, if they last a few years each I'd be happy.

I have that one. I was actually surprised when I got it - much higher quality than i was expecting. I also have the smaller HF 3/8 drive one (75 ft/lb) that I picked up for $7.49 on sale. Both seem to work pretty well.

Yeah, I'm happy with them. I never said they were top notch quality but for all I use them for, they are perfect.

 

[MasterAndCommander]

Does Harbor Freight carry smaller ones that can do inch-lbs?

 

[Nocturnal]

LOL if you think that's expensive, check out www.snapon.com and check out their torque wrenches.

 

[Gillbot]

Originally posted by: MasterAndCommander
Does Harbor Freight carry smaller ones that can do inch-lbs?

Yeah, they have them from 1/4 drive up to 3/4 or 1" drive I believe.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=2696

 

[Triumph]

Originally posted by: iamwiz82

Originally posted by: spidey07

Originally posted by: myusername

Originally posted by: Antisocial Virge
If I ever see anyone using a torque wrench installing tires I always think "should not be working on the car" in the back of my head.

Jeeps have problems with warping rotors if the lugnuts aren't torqued evenely and to spec.

shens.

No, that's true. It's a known issue with Grand Cherokees.

And VW's too.

 

[Triumph]

Originally posted by: paulney

So I settled for a $22 version with a stupid tension rod and a scale. Looks like a POS, but whatever - I only needed to take off and put back on a couple of wheels.

I prefer the deflection style wrenches. They hold their calibration longer than a clicker type because they are a very simple device based on a 1st year engineering mechanics equation. And since steel can undergo an infinite number of cycles without ever losing its material properties (the numbers that plug into that equation), it'll stay accurate much longer than most clicker types.

"Accurate" in this sense means as accurate as a clicker wrench, because there's no real difference between 70 and 75 ft-lbs, for example. You can put a clicker on a calibration bench, do it 5 times, and get 5 different results across a range of probably 10 ft-lbs. Plus the method in which you use a torque wrench has a great effect on it. As someone else mentioned above, you need to do things like oil the threads, apply steady pressure, re-torque after setting, etc. Given all of these variables, there's no way that most clicker torque wrenches are going to give you +/- 1 ft-lbs of accuracy.

My lug nut spec is 87 ft-lbs. I put the deflection type torque wrench on them and turn them until the gauge hits about 90. Good enough.

 

[spidey07]

Originally posted by: Nocturnal
LOL if you think that's expensive, check out www.snapon.com and check out their torque wrenches.

drool.

I don't know why I like their tools so much. Just seem so easy to use.

 

[Gillbot]

Originally posted by: Triumph

Originally posted by: iamwiz82

Originally posted by: spidey07

Originally posted by: myusername

Originally posted by: Antisocial Virge
If I ever see anyone using a torque wrench installing tires I always think "should not be working on the car" in the back of my head.

Jeeps have problems with warping rotors if the lugnuts aren't torqued evenely and to spec.

shens.

No, that's true. It's a known issue with Grand Cherokees.

And VW's too.

And the Chevrolet Camaro/Pontiac Firebird line of cars.

 

[Gillbot]

Originally posted by: Triumph

Originally posted by: paulney

So I settled for a $22 version with a stupid tension rod and a scale. Looks like a POS, but whatever - I only needed to take off and put back on a couple of wheels.

I prefer the deflection style wrenches. They hold their calibration longer than a clicker type because they are a very simple device based on a 1st year engineering mechanics equation. And since steel can undergo an infinite number of cycles without ever losing its material properties (the numbers that plug into that equation), it'll stay accurate much longer than most clicker types.

"Accurate" in this sense means as accurate as a clicker wrench, because there's no real difference between 70 and 75 ft-lbs, for example. You can put a clicker on a calibration bench, do it 5 times, and get 5 different results across a range of probably 10 ft-lbs. Plus the method in which you use a torque wrench has a great effect on it. As someone else mentioned above, you need to do things like oil the threads, apply steady pressure, re-torque after setting, etc. Given all of these variables, there's no way that most clicker torque wrenches are going to give you +/- 1 ft-lbs of accuracy.

My lug nut spec is 87 ft-lbs. I put the deflection type torque wrench on them and turn them until the gauge hits about 90. Good enough.

I put my clicker on a bench and with 5 pulls (at varing settings) it got me to within 5 ft-lbs of the middle 80% of scale, that's close enough for me. I know not to use it for the top and bottom 10% of scale because it isn't really that accurate there but for $10, who cares. It does 90% of what I need it to.

 

[spidey07]

Well I guess you learn something new everyday.

I always torqued my wheels in an alternating fashion (1, 3, 5, 2, 4) and could generally "feel" when they were correct.

Everybody should own a torque wrench though.

 

[Triumph]

Originally posted by: Gillbot

Originally posted by: Triumph

Originally posted by: paulney

So I settled for a $22 version with a stupid tension rod and a scale. Looks like a POS, but whatever - I only needed to take off and put back on a couple of wheels.

I prefer the deflection style wrenches. They hold their calibration longer than a clicker type because they are a very simple device based on a 1st year engineering mechanics equation. And since steel can undergo an infinite number of cycles without ever losing its material properties (the numbers that plug into that equation), it'll stay accurate much longer than most clicker types.

"Accurate" in this sense means as accurate as a clicker wrench, because there's no real difference between 70 and 75 ft-lbs, for example. You can put a clicker on a calibration bench, do it 5 times, and get 5 different results across a range of probably 10 ft-lbs. Plus the method in which you use a torque wrench has a great effect on it. As someone else mentioned above, you need to do things like oil the threads, apply steady pressure, re-torque after setting, etc. Given all of these variables, there's no way that most clicker torque wrenches are going to give you +/- 1 ft-lbs of accuracy.

My lug nut spec is 87 ft-lbs. I put the deflection type torque wrench on them and turn them until the gauge hits about 90. Good enough.

I put my clicker on a bench and with 5 pulls (at varing settings) it got me to within 5 ft-lbs of the middle 80% of scale, that's close enough for me. I know not to use it for the top and bottom 10% of scale because it isn't really that accurate there but for $10, who cares. It does 90% of what I need it to.

Well, for 10 bux I really can't fault your purchase either! And actually putting it on the bench is good info. I might have to pick me up one of these $10 jobbies.

 

[BatmanNate]

I do the lug nuts and most stuff on the car by feel, but I have a torque wrench for doing the heads. It's a PITA, XXlb/ft + 90 degrees + 90 degrees.

 

[spidey07]

Originally posted by: BatmanNate
I do the lug nuts and most stuff on the car by feel, but I have a torque wrench for doing the heads. It's a PITA, XXlb/ft + 90 degrees + 90 degrees.

Word.

I don't muck with motors/powertrain when it comes to torque, I alway use a wrench. But then again I'm not a mechanic, just a garage tinkerer.