Toilet problem

Howard

Lifer
Oct 14, 1999
47,982
11
81
Got a toilet that leaks water from the bowl. When there's water in the tank, you can hear leaking/dripping noises. Pushing down moderately forcefully on the light blue flapper will stop the sound. What do I need to replace?
 

woodie1

Diamond Member
Mar 7, 2000
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Look at the surface of the flapper that seals against the seal ring. Sometimes a small amount of debris gets on there and allows water to leak into the bowl.
 

Howard

Lifer
Oct 14, 1999
47,982
11
81
What is the seal ring? The black rubber ring shown in the picture does not contact the flapper. Rather, the flapper drops right onto a hard (white) plastic tube which seems to allow the tank water to drain out.
 

zzuupp

Lifer
Jul 6, 2008
14,866
2,319
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Originally posted by: woodie1
Look at the surface of the flapper that seals against the seal ring. Sometimes a small amount of debris gets on there and allows water to leak into the bowl.

Excellent 1st step.
In the area, does it look like the chain has pulled the flapper askew?


 

OUCaptain

Golden Member
Nov 21, 2007
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Seriously Howard? I expected more from you. Head to the hardware store and get a full tank kit for around 20 bucks.
 

Howard

Lifer
Oct 14, 1999
47,982
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81
Originally posted by: OUCaptain
Seriously Howard? I expected more from you. Head to the hardware store and get a full tank kit for around 20 bucks.
Are the parts standard?
 

Howard

Lifer
Oct 14, 1999
47,982
11
81
Originally posted by: zzuupp
Originally posted by: woodie1
Look at the surface of the flapper that seals against the seal ring. Sometimes a small amount of debris gets on there and allows water to leak into the bowl.

Excellent 1st step.
In the area, does it look like the chain has pulled the flapper askew?
No, there's still some slack in the chain when the flapper has dropped all the way.
 

Red Squirrel

No Lifer
May 24, 2003
70,675
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I've seen this often where the chain pulls it too much in an angle then the flap does not land back properly. You can pend the handle rod a bit to try to make it pull more in the right angle but sometimes this is only a temp fix.

Really the pressure from the water falling in should suck the flap back down but sometimes it wont. I don't know what's up with us but we are very hard on toilets, I've seen all sorts of interesting issues which I was sometimes able to fix, while others just kept coming back.
 

OUCaptain

Golden Member
Nov 21, 2007
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Originally posted by: Howard
Originally posted by: OUCaptain
Seriously Howard? I expected more from you. Head to the hardware store and get a full tank kit for around 20 bucks.
Are the parts standard?

Every crapper i've see in the US are fairly standard. There's only three holes and despite the filler location, the sizes are standard. If for some reason it doesn't fit, just take it back and exchange it. If in doubt, dis-assemble the old components and them with you. You won't be the first to take toilet parts into a hardware store. Again, if in doubt, ask the plumbing guy. While most hardware store employees aren't the brightest in the world, I've found the plumbing and electrical department guys to be pretty reliable.
 

iGas

Diamond Member
Feb 7, 2009
6,240
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Flappers are pretty much standard, and a replacement flapper shouldn't be more than $5 at the local hardware store (homedepot, etc...).
 

OUCaptain

Golden Member
Nov 21, 2007
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Originally posted by: iGas

Flappers are pretty much standard, and a replacement flapper shouldn't be more than $5 at the local hardware store (homedepot, etc...).

could also be the re-fill valve
 

iGas

Diamond Member
Feb 7, 2009
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Originally posted by: OUCaptain
Originally posted by: iGas

Flappers are pretty much standard, and a replacement flapper shouldn't be more than $5 at the local hardware store (homedepot, etc...).

could also be the re-fill valve
Could be a valve as said, but he did mentioned that it shut off when he pushes on the flapper instead of water flow over top of the overflow tube.
 

OUCaptain

Golden Member
Nov 21, 2007
1,522
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Originally posted by: iGas
Originally posted by: OUCaptain
Originally posted by: iGas

Flappers are pretty much standard, and a replacement flapper shouldn't be more than $5 at the local hardware store (homedepot, etc...).

could also be the re-fill valve
Could be a valve as said, but he did mentioned that it shut off when he pushes on the flapper instead of water flow over top of the overflow tub.

Oh yeah. With slack in the chain, definitely flapper.

Unless money is a major concern, might as well replace all the guts. The amount of work is about the same and you have a whole new toilet (porcelaindoesn't were out right?) for just a bit more cash.
 

Skeeedunt

Platinum Member
Oct 7, 2005
2,777
3
76
I replaced just the flapper on mine and it solved the same issue. Someone suggested I might as well replace everything while I was in there, but that seemed like considerably more work (the flapper took all of 30 seconds).

Does the rest of it just pop out easily? Looked more complicated than that.
 

Red Squirrel

No Lifer
May 24, 2003
70,675
13,837
126
www.anyf.ca
The fill valve part is probably the most complex, and is not that complicated. I recently replaced the one in our toilet as it was not sensing water level properly. You just have to make sure everything is tight or you'll get external leaks which would be bad. Would flood the basement as it would just keep flowing non stop. So need to really be sure you have zero cracks where the water can come out. It's all hand tightened though. Not even a screw driver or thread tape needed as it's plastic fittings and there's rubber seals. Then you just turn the dial to adjust how high it fills.

In this particular case though it sounds like it's just the flapper. Quick way to find out is if you shut off the water and still hear water leakage, then it's the flap.
 

Howard

Lifer
Oct 14, 1999
47,982
11
81
I know it's got something to do with the flapper, when I push down on it to improve the seal the water stops leaking.
 

Auggie

Golden Member
Jul 18, 2003
1,379
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Call up Wilson Flanges and Countersinks... they'll guarantee that you maintain full valve functionality from 7,000 RQMs up to 8, 9 or even 10,000 RQMs. That's right! 10,000!