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Threaded inserts for PC made from plexi....

Would self-tapping or the slot inserts be better ? At the price of this glass, I would really hate to mess up a piece of it. 🙂

What would the JB Weld be for ? I "planned" on drilling the hole, then inserting the 'insert'. That is if it would work in the material.
 
Slot inserts? I don't know what you mean, the commercial parts you buy are done with heat and grooved inserts, like glue lines in a dowel.
I have not done this for an insert but have tapped plexi for use in reservoirs. I would use the same method I use in wood cabinets just more care and certainly a few test runs would be in order. I like brass inserts like these with a wood screw thread. The inserts I use for a 6-32 screw have the same thread as a #14 wood screw. First I make a tap from a 2 or 3" screw. I cut the head off a to fit in a drill, (a very slow VSR battery drill is best) cut two slots in the threads with a dremel to do the cutting, parallel to the shank angled off the center-line to create teeth that will cut. Finally I'll grind the point off to cut threads to the bottom of a stopped hole. Be sure to use soap or wax and back it all the way out to clear the tap as the cut plastic will damage the threads you've just cut. Buy or make a tool to run these. Using just a standard screwdriver is asking for trouble.

edit- Never saw those before, good find daw
 
MentalIlness said:
They are calling these slotted inserts on another site...

http://yardleyproducts.thomasnet.co...ert-slotted-coarse-threaded-series-us-threads

Well, on that site as well 🙂
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Yes, I saw that after a look around. The inserts daw posted looked as if they might be good but the "slotted" brass are commonly available, lowes/ depot and most hardware stores will have them. I wonder how much pressure is required with those cold press inserts to keep them in place? If you predrilled and then heated the fixture it may be possible to get them in w/o breaking thin walls but will they hold in place?
 
Well, the plexi that I will be using will be 1/2 inch and some of it will be 3/4...which is pretty thick.

That is my worst fear though about doing this, cracking a thick expensive piece 🙂
 
well i saw another dude use motherboard standoff's and drill holes in the plexi + clear sealant.
 
aigomorla said:
well i saw another dude use motherboard standoff's and drill holes in the plexi + clear sealant.
Click to expand...

Or you could use a two-pack epoxy resin to glue the stand offs or inserts into the plexi.

The resin is incredibly strong stuff provided you get the mix of hardener and resin roughly correct.
 
Another way to mount them is drill your hole one number smaller. Start the insert in the hole and use a soldering iron to work it in. A larger (60W+) iron with a blunt tip works best. The insert will get hot and soften the acrylic. Go slow so you don't push it in too far. Stop when the insert is flush and let it cool down.
 
Rubycon said:
Another way to mount them is drill your hole one number smaller. Start the insert in the hole and use a soldering iron to work it in. A larger (60W+) iron with a blunt tip works best. The insert will get hot and soften the acrylic. Go slow so you don't push it in too far. Stop when the insert is flush and let it cool down.
Click to expand...

I like this, it wouldn't take much effort to grind a spare tip or fashion a guide to keep things straight and square.
 
I like this, it wouldn't take much effort to grind a spare tip or fashion a guide to keep things straight and square.
Click to expand...

Doesn't sound like a bad idea. Have any of you guys "or gals" done this method before ?
 
Well, I'll let you know how it turns out, the glass is supposed to be delivered tomorrow. Costs roughly $200 for the 11 sheets.
 
nedfunnell said:
Your best option would be to drill and tap the holes directly. That's the most professional and reliable method, IMO.
Click to expand...

If it were a one time fastening this would be fine, I would recommend it, self tappers even, but for a case that may need to be dismantled from time to time the threads won't hold up. Look at any plastic case, a notebook for example, every time you remove and replace the screw it weakens the grip and they often strip.
 
WoodButcher said:
If it were a one time fastening this would be fine, I would recommend it, self tappers even, but for a case that may need to be dismantled from time to time the threads won't hold up. Look at any plastic case, a notebook for example, every time you remove and replace the screw it weakens the grip and they often strip.
Click to expand...

The only thing worse than a stripped screw is a leaky hose. That has a somewhat kinky ring to it. 😱
 
Still waiting on the damn sheets to get here.

Yea, it will need to be removed from time to time. Upgrades etc;

It can't be a permanent fixture. However, I do have the wooden templates done.

Looks really nice too. Damn delivery people better not screw up these sheets and kick the package around.
 
Only problem I have been pondering about is...the power button. Right now I have a P182 Gun Metal Black case which will be going to my wife.

But I have another full tower case (older model) that I will be using the power button from. Which is almost identical to the P182's button.

Figuring this out is the hardest part. About how to install the button into the plexi.
 
Drill press, stepped hole.

Sorry, first thoughts, I haven't seen the switch that you refer to but any switch on a pc should be recessed IMO so it can't be hit accidentally.
 
Well, received half of the glass so far. Comes in two packages on two different trucks ? wtf ?

Time to get started I guess.
 
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