threaded inserts for attaching legs to a table?

[vshah]

update 3/22:

bump, finally got my table top up to my apartment with my wife's help!

i got the legs as well. the holes in the leg plates are #10, so i'm thinking about using 3 of these at each corner to fasten the legs to the table:

http://www.amazon.com/10-32-Brad-Hol...472378&sr=8-20

any potential downsides?


the table is 73" x 48", about 2" thick. I'm thinking of using a couple of 2x4s down the underside of it to help stiffen it a bit. any recommendations on how i should lay these out?


original post:

So I'm thinking about building a dining table, and would like it to be somewhat easy to disassemble if I ever move.

What's the best type of drop-in insert to use? (thread-in or press-in)
I'm attaching thin metal legs that have a top plate with 3 holes, so each corner of the table will have 3 inserts.

can these things handle being screwed into and out of several times?


if there's a better solution, I'm all ears.

thanks!

 

[Howard]

MDF, plywood, particleboard?

 

[vshah]

solid wood - not sure what type yet though.

 

[Howard]

What hole size in the legs? You want to use the largest possible screw.

 

[Tiamat]

I was looking at ez lok metric threaded inserts, but I haven't used them yet... You can find them on amazon.com

 

[Squisher]

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=781

Clinch nut plate

They make angle ones too

Put one of these in the center of table leg:

wood stud screw

 

[vshah]

probably should have mentioned, i'm using these legs, sorry - they are 3 holes, not 4.
http://hairpinlegs.com/products.php?id=7

the holes are for a #10 screw

 

[PottedMeat]

I was looking at ez lok metric threaded inserts, but I haven't used them yet... You can find them on amazon.com

these look like they'd work

http://www.catalogds.com/db/service?domain=ezlok&command=locate&category=knife_thrd_brs_unc

those + 10-32 or 10-24 thumb screws maybe

 

[herm0016]

those work pretty well, just make sure you drill the correct size hole and get them in square, if not and you tighten the leg bolt it will not hold as well, and will tend to pull out easier.

this is about how we do table legs, we used the threaded inserts and used machine bolts for the removable legs.

 

[vshah]

some people recommend putting epoxy around the insert before you stick it in the wood, i might try that.

 

[Triumph]

i don't know anything about woodworking, but if you're building a metal table, spend your time browsing Mcmaster.com. They have anything and everything you need to make anything and everything.

 

[vshah]

the table top itself will be wood, just the legs are metal.
basically building a cb2 dylan table for much less.

 

[Howard]

the table top itself will be wood, just the legs are metal.
basically building a cb2 dylan table for much less.

Baltic birch plywood has excellent fastener retention, fwiw.

 

[twinrider1]

...

wood stud screw

Hanger bolt. Search under "hanger bolt" and you'll find what you need. I agree that this is the way to go. The large thread is permanently installed in the wood and the legs are attached using the machine thread side. Legs can be installed/removed again and again and the stud stays, so the wood hole lasts much longer. I'd consider using wing nuts to make it easy to tighten things up as needed. And fender washers too.
Maybe I'm overly cautious, but #10 sounds a little small though. That's only 3/16" diameter.

 

[Modelworks]

I would make a metal plate the same size as the one on the legs with mounting holes drilled out and nuts welded to it. Drill out space in the wood for the nuts so the plate sits flush. Screw the plate to the bottom of the wood with flush mounting wood screws and you are all set. The metal plate re-enforces the leg connection and ensures a flat mount and every time you insert or remove bolts it will always be a metal to metal connection. Very stable but requires use of a welder, can probably get an auto shop to do it cheap if you get the metal all ready to weld.

 

[vshah]

I would make a metal plate the same size as the one on the legs with mounting holes drilled out and nuts welded to it. Drill out space in the wood for the nuts so the plate sits flush. Screw the plate to the bottom of the wood with flush mounting wood screws and you are all set. The metal plate re-enforces the leg connection and ensures a flat mount and every time you insert or remove bolts it will always be a metal to metal connection. Very stable but requires use of a welder, can probably get an auto shop to do it cheap if you get the metal all ready to weld.

thanks, that gave me an idea. anyone know where I can get something like this:

http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/207769649/J_plate_and_bolt.html

in the US? tried searching mcmaster but couldn't find it.

 

[Modelworks]

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=1641
These are screw on tee nuts, not really designed for something like the mount you have but could be adapted I guess.

 

[vshah]

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=1641
These are screw on tee nuts, not really designed for something like the mount you have but could be adapted I guess.

i think 3 of those at each corner would be plenty stable, no?

looks much better than threaded inserts since there's no chance of them rotating out of the wood with the screw, and I don't have to mess with epoxy.

i'll have to drill out the holes in each leg from a #10 to a #18 but that should be doable.

 

[vshah]

bump, finally got my table top up to my apartment with my wife's help!

i got the legs as well. the holes in the leg plates are #10, so i'm thinking about using 3 of these at each corner to fasten the legs to the table:

http://www.amazon.com/10-32-Brad-Hol...472378&sr=8-20

any potential downsides?


the table is 73" x 48", about 2" thick. I'm thinking of using a couple of 2x4s down the underside of it to help stiffen it a bit. any recommendations on how i should lay these out?